WinterBear

I like! Do the ends of the base strap overlap? And how comfortable is it all together?

I'll send ya some snaps I have that might work. I have a bunch left over from a project, so I'll rummage them out tonight and drop in the mail, most likely by tomorrow. Do you have a set and anvil, or should I see if I have a spare?

Or, you could grab a small offset screwdriver from the hardware store if you really wanted Chicago screws?

Yeah, it's the grease and blood caught in the pores and decomposing that is causing the smell. If the borax doesn't give you satisfactory results, toss it out in the sun. Secure it from rodents and dogs, and let the UV and the heat take care of things. A week or three shouldn't cause too much degradation, but I don't think it will take that long. If that fails though, you can always try a peroxide soak. For the ones that are still too rough inside, a round file should take care of that. Or, if you have no file, wrap emery cloth or sandpaper around a dowel to smooth things down. Even cheap manicure sticks with the abrasive surfaces can work, and can be split lengthwise to get into narrower spots.

Well, it might be worthwhile to have a camp "wish list", maybe not for solar lights, but for more or better lights in general? You'd be surprised how often someone who went to the camp when they were a kid, or whose kid had a good time there, or just wants to be active in the camp, church, and community will put money or time towards youth camps and youth programs. Sometimes, all you have to do is let people know of the need. I've seen everything found somehow from curtains for cabins to wheelchair access ramps to instruction pavilions to a new roof and a showerhouse (not all at the same camp of course).

Sounds like maybe you want a "lab thermometer". They come in varying ranges, so you can pick the span you want. You'd probably want what is known as a "total immersion" thermometer, which means that if it gets dropped into the water, the scale won't be hurt (candy thermometers have holes that can let fluids in if the top accidentally gets submerged). They are usually accurate, and most chemistry thermomemeters will state how accurate (e.g., accurate within 2 degrees, 3 degrees, etc.) Some will have a loop so it can be suspended (beats holding on to it). So...maybe something like this?: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00551NSNK/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Terrific. I have a feeling you're going to be a popular instructor. I bet those headstones weigh a ton! No possible bounce on those things. Do you have any lighting options, or is this hut unwired? If it is unwired, they sell solar powered "shed" lights where the PV cell can be mounted outside in the sun and a 10 or 15 ft cord to a bar or spotlight that is placed in the dim area.

Sounds like fun. Will you be teaching all of that, or just the leatherworking? Do you have a good hammering substrate for the stamps, punches, whatever? If you find the tables have too much bounce, can I suggest what I've seen put to good use at one of the camps I was at? Cheap to make too if they've got a log pile you can raid. The best surface I found at the local camps around here was where someone took sections of log about 2 ft high and over 1 ft in diameter with perpendicular cuts and a level top and bottom. Some logs were bigger, about 2 ft in diameter and nearly 3 ft tall, but these were impossible for one adult to move easily. They'd debarked the logs and varnished the sides, but the top (cut surface) was raw endgrain wood--as the surface got beat up, they would run a sander across it once or twice a summer to smooth it out again. A metal strap was set into a groove about 6 inches from either end and in the middle to prevent splitting on some, and on all of the logs, they'd secured two thick leather handles to the sides with screws so that the instructor (or two kids) could pick the logs up and bring them into the storage area easily (usually to be laid on their sides and stacked under one of the tables). When in use, the logs were set up on a concrete slab with a short stool the kids could sit on with their legs on either side of the log, or if they were taller, they could kneel or squat, or even sit flat sort of cross legged with the log cradled behind their knees and against their thighs--this was the best way, as the kids were right above their work and their legs held the log steadier. Because the logs were semi portable, they could be moved out to the sun if the light in the huts was too dim (often was) or under a roof or tarped area to one side of the hut if it was raining.

Looks pretty good compared to some of the things I've seen and used. How many kids will you be teaching at a time?

Something like this? http://www.beadinggem.com/2012/01/how-to-make-paracord-knotted-cross.html

I quite like this book too. It has a lot of patterns for small things, like tome thumb coin purses, comb cases, key cases, placards, and a few other things. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/61937-00.aspx

Hi josecheo. Springfield leather has chart for mm to oz. conversions. http://springfieldle...g%20Leather.pdf So about 8oz/9oz for the top, and about 7oz for the bottom.

You can use it as a clasp. Take a look at this folding hoof pick used as a belt buckle arrangement. http://www.narragansettleathers.com/Pelican.html

Try just block dyeing or just antiquing then? For block dyeing, you'd dye the whole item a lighter color, then when it's dry, you use a cloth with a darker wrapped around a block of wood and wipe it across. The darker dye will stay out of the crevices around the stamps and dye everything else. For antiquing, you'd either leave the leather a natural color or dye it, and then top it with a resist. When the resist is dry, you wipe antiquing gel or dye into the stamp marks and wipe it off the high parts. The darker antique settles into the crevices.

Yeah, something like that. And yes, file after the bone is degreased and dry. You won't be able to file damp bone either. You can soak the bone in hot (but not boiling) water and borax to degrease.

You can get rid of a lot of that honeycombed stuff with some eye protection, a small cold chisel, a vise, a pad of old towel or something similar, and a non-metal mallet. You don't want to drive yourself crazy by doing more sawing than you need to. Just pad the bone and clamp it in the vise, pop your eye protection on, and using light taps on the chisel with a wooden mallet (never use metal-to-metal on impact tools--ruins the tools and may splinter metal), and break out the boney core. A half-round file or a round file usually works to smooth the interior juts that remain attached. A jeweler's saw is gennerally not going to work for cutting pieces off the compact or dense bone, unless you like a lot of sawing. You'll make more progress with a coping saw for any long straight cuts, and use the jeweler's saw for small precise cuts and curves.

It looks like a mix of block dyeing and brushwork? You can see where the block (or possibly a sponge brush or dauber) accidentally dyed the background along the scallops at the upper right. If I was to make something similar, I'd first start by dyeing the entire strap that tan color that surrounds the lettering. I'd block dye or brush dye the edges the darker red-brown, then use a fine brush to dye the words black. The wolf stamps would be sort of dry brushed with the same red-brown as the sides to add more color. I'd then resist the entire strap, and when dry, antique the strap to darken the imprints around the wolf and the scallops along the sides, then seal and finish.

Well I must be doing something wrong then, it certainly turned me funny colors where I got it on my bare skin.

Arbor press! Snaps, definitely. You can also lug that sucker to a shop and have them tap it to hold stamps too! Kids love the 1" square 2D and 3D stamps, but kids under 12 don't always have the upper body strength or the coordination to stamp alphabet and the larger figure stamps (frustrated flailing often ensues, and/or squished fingers). Look up the posts on arbor presses (and also drill press)--I seem to recall there were some nice arbor press set ups and a jig for stamping belts (aha! there's one: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=34570&st=0&p=23841). If you are worried about the press squishing fingers, pre-set the snaps at home, and give the kids C-clamps for the 3D stamps. C-Clamps work surprisingly well for most of the younger bunch I've worked with.

You probably have a nice piece of actual shoe leather then. You won't be able to tool it since it's not veg tan, but it can be made into other things depending on its temper. Bags, handbags, and wallets are all possibilities.

Not a veg tan with the darker surface. Looks like maybe a latigo or a leather with a pull-up finish maybe...? Not sure. We'll need more of an expert I think to decide what kind exactly you have. Looks a nice piece though.

Hi there. Can you describe it a bit more? What does it look like? Feel like? Color? Take a look at the cut edges, better yet, cut off a small piece. -Is the exposed center blueish or greyish? If so, you probably have chrome tan. -If it does not have a blue or grey center, but is a color than tan all the way through, it is most likely some type of leather that is "struck through", which is typically, but not always something other than veg tan. -Is it tan on the surface (grain and flesh side), and is it about the same color as the surface in the middle? You may have veg tan. If it is tan all the way through or colored the same all the way through, the next step is immersing your cut off piece in water. Does the water absorb? Does pressing it with the edge of a spoon/penny/fingernail leave a darker dent/mark that stays even after the leather dries completely or does it maintain a shape after drying? If so, it is probably a veg tan or a russet tooling leather (if it is sort of a reddish color). Chrome tans are generally (but not always) softer and more drapey that tooling leather of a similar thickness. Chrome leathers are also more likely to have a distinct grain, have a waxy or shiny surface, be dyed, and/or be embossed (some veg tan comes pre-embossed or has a grain, but typically not so much).

Have you tried talking to Springfield Leather? I'm not sure how their price/quality compares for their grades when held against other sellers, but they will cut leather for people. If someone wants a bend, they are usually more than happy to sell just a bend. In fact, if I remember correctly, they do sell Hermann Oak bends in various weights as a regular catalog item. I think they also carry Craftsman and B grade in the HO. Now, I've not ordered any tooling leather from them, but I have been pretty happy overall with what I've bought from them.