TacticallySharp

I use 4-5 oz for the pockets on my sheaths. It's easier to form and for the pocket only works very well with the 8 oz sheath.

I haven't visited the forum in a while. Here's one of the knives with my version of a period style sheath.

My first try at a frontier style set. Knife is 1084 forged steel with bone handle, brass and bone accents on lanyard. Sheath veg-tan leather, fringe, and brass cones with feathers at ends of decorative leather lace. The finish blade was etched to give that aged look as the bone was boiled and dyed.

First I like your holsters. I am a bladesmith that on occassion makes a holster. I started out making sheaths. The main difference is the use of a welt to protect the thread used to sew the seams. I do simple sheaths as the man who showed me how to make them will make all the high end custom sheaths my knife customers want. I find that most knives will fit in a basic pouch stlye sheath. If you have a guard on the knife use a strap to secure it' Here are some f my simple sheaths that I have made over the last few months:

For a great round knife check out J. Cook. Jeff makes some really great cobalt knives. I really love mine from him, and I have 4 others that I rarely use anymore. King has some of the best tools for the money and great customer service.

I have a helper that I pay $25 for 4 hours plus 10% of the sale price as the items sell. That gives her expense money plus incentive to keep her interest. She has worked with me for 2 months. Next month I am increasing the rate to 15%. She does leather work and is learning to forge knives.

Really nicely done. I like the color and contrast.

Very lucky person. Great looking rig!

I use a punch from Daddy's Leather Supply, best investment I have made. Saves time and produces a pro looking job every time. I also use it on my pancake style sheaths.

I had the same problem really bad when I started. I was shown that I should lightly score the line once or twice before tryin g to completely cut thru the piece. It has worked for me. I cut most of my lines with a small round knife made by J Cook. Rarely use anything else.

I do 5 to 6 holsters a year. Each one is different. I get it the way I draw it. I do a lot of sheaths, all the hand sewn ones are normally right the first time. It is when I go to the machine that i have to redo them. Most of my work is one of a kind since I forge my knives. No two are exactly the same, thus no two sheaths are the same. Most of my holster work is done to match a knife & sheath I made for a knife client.

I use FIEBINGS USMC Black, 2 coats plus touch up coat, then 2 coats of hilite, followed by super shine. When dry I follow with Aussie and a lite buff. Gives me a nice weather proof finish on my sheaths. I use small sable brushes.

Nice looking first holster, mine was not showable. I do mainly knife sheaths. Barry King tools are of high quality and worth every penny. They will keep their resell value should you later decide to sell them. LOL I have also started a collection of about 150 or so Midas stamping tools, very good quality. Burnishing is a key point most folks starting out kind of leave to the end. Get a good burnisher and learn to use it. Burnishing is the key to producing a product that is truly professional looking. I use this one: http://www.leatherburnishers.com/Burnishers_for_Drills.html Keep up the work, practice makes you better. You should see my "and I called this leather crafting box" keep your mistakes, I mean early creations gone bad items, it's fun to look at them as you get better at this. I still occasionally added a piece to the box. Best wishes with your new hobby.

Very nice. I like the coloring.

I used a piece of straight rod you can use a nail. Just sand one end to a point. Smooth, no bumps in my work. I also mallet down the sew line after sewing. I have the press attachment but rarely use it. I'm much faster with the hand held unit. I do not punch holes first. I only punch small things, then I do not drill them. I mainly make sheaths and small pieces, once in a while I may do a holster.

I use a portable dremel with a 1/8" rod which has been tapered to zero as the bit. Works quite well. Before I got my spacing wheel I got a marking/ tracing wheel at Wally's World in the fabric dept and removed every other tooth to use to keep my holes evenly spaced. Roll it in your sewing line, then you drill the marks.

If you do not know a reloader then go to a gun shop and ask for them. The web has several places that sell them. One example, http://www.pistoleer.com/azoom/ shop around for pricing and look at the pictures till you find what you like. There are many different styles.

I had the same problem, hard to evenly apply the pressure to the snap part. Went to Harbor Freight and got a 1 ton arbor press, drilled it to fit my tools. This allows even pressure to be applied. My second press was based on a complete die set for everything I do. This is one I took to a metal shop and for 15$ they did the drilling and line it up perfectly. Not at shop so can not add photo. Edit: I make a lot of my tools. Current project "Metal Etcher" replying from phone which does not allow me to upload photos from it.

I use Barge for most of my sheaths, except when it is raining, then I use white craft glue from Walmart. Use Barge while sitting in the backyard the fumes can be a bit much.

I do mainily sheaths, and a holster on request of a knife client who wants matching leather ( 4 or 5 a year), I use 50/50 Tan Coat, after it dries followed with Aussie over night - hand rubbed & polished for a nice luster shine.

I used a 24x72 piece of 3/4" birch plywood. Covered 1/2 of it with pondo board and the other 1/2 I got a 1.25" piece of gray granite on it. Works real good for my sheath and little bit of holster making that I do.

For a first it looks great. My first was so fugly that I put on the wall as a reminder, I mostly do sheaths. Remember the more you do, the better you will get. Keep up the good work.

Looks really nice.

Very nice! And that's a quick one.

With customization, brass, horn, and graphite spacers. Pistol style handle (I have a problem with my hand muscles, they are shrinking, which effects my control of most tools. Both J Cook and B King have created custom tools for me) A pattern side and a round side on the blade. Custom hardwood handle with shipping was less than 300$. You more than likely can get one for less if your requirements are less than my needs. Jeff's knives are well worth the money and being made from cobalt will last a life time. I will past it down when i no longer can use it. My youngest daughter has her eyes on it.