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TacticallySharp

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Everything posted by TacticallySharp

  1. I drilled my HP press hole. Not that hard to do.
  2. Grey, looks like the actual macine. If it was me, I would only clean it and keep the antique look, and value of and old tool.
  3. I sew everything with a saddle stitch. Better safe than sorry! I have not had one that lasted more than 6 months with dailey use, that was not sewn.
  4. I use two Cobra 3 short beds. You can find a used one for about your price. One is setup for thicker materials, the other for my thinner stuff at a friend's place two min away. Call Cobra Steve at Cobra and ask if he has any used ones available. They carry a lifetime warranty. Even used!!! That gives you a good answer to what you need. Get the first one first you can ajust it for both of your needs and if it works for you look for the the next one. wwwCobraleathertools Googly them.
  5. If it's a repeat item I charge a basic price starting at $75US for either a sheah or holster. All my hawks are one up customs. Anything custom starts at $100. The first one is a basic. The second one was a custom to start with, but as also a Blasesmith that became repete due to numer of them I do for myself and two other knifemakers. I gave them the pattern for the knife.
  6. I do not buy from them. Did before the change. It has been a while.
  7. I used the Cobra 3. Yes I have to adjust it based on what I'm doing which is the same as you listed plus holsters. Basically two settings cover everything I do. Steve at Cobra may even have a unit which he took on an exchange for a new one.
  8. I use Barry King knives and the blade does cut the skin (into the leather.) Never used a Tandy one. I have a couple of theirs that were given to me by family but, never opened them. I'm very happy with the 3 BKs and 1 Midas I use regularly.
  9. I got a Wiss 8" years ago. When I'm not using a round knife it's my go to for cutting heavier leather. Check out their current models. They are the best one's I have bought. I have several other lesser ones that I've gotten over the years but, they just don't work like these do.
  10. I use my friend's Cobra 3 all the time for sheath making, and holsters. I like it and the best part is it will easily handle 3/4" thick stacks of leather. There are times I stack 5 layers of 9 oz with an exotic inlay piece. This machine handles it with no problems. Remember you can find a used one too. Sometimes Cobra has them.
  11. Try searching with quotes "Leather hat".
  12. I started as a leathercraftsman years ago. Today I'm mainly a bladesmith. All my sheaths including pancakes have a welt. I cut a full panel and then remove the knife outline from the center piece. This works very well and looks good too.
  13. It smells the same as when it went into the box.
  14. I store mine in smaller plastic storage containers from Walmart. They stack and are clear so I can see what's in them.
  15. I always just use a fan even if wet molding, but I live in South Florida. Lots of heat and humidity here. Molding is done with a food bag vac system
  16. Aldo at the New Jersey Steel Baron carries it in 4 foot lengths. I would recommend 5160 high carbon alloy steel. It's also used to make car and truck leaf springs. He sells new annealed steel. A lot of us that also forge knives buy it from him.
  17. I use waxed linen thread. Stitch back a couple of stitches, tie it off on the back side, cut, and burn the ends. I make mainly sheaths and holsters.
  18. I used a piece of plywood with a wood frame between two old kitchen cabinets for my main work surface.
  19. I like the concept. You might like to try using a 1.75" bag oval punch for your slots. It makes them the same size and gives a cleaner look. Other than that it looks good.
  20. Thank you! Just what I needed.
  21. Follow up. It's 3+ years later and the knife is still like new. I only hone it, and it's as sharp as the first day!
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