K-Man

Ohio Travel Bag sells the snaps you're looking for. I use them extensively on this holster: I use a black line 24 cap to help conceal what the snap is (the customer knows, of course). McMaster-Carr sells the t-nuts. Your local hardware store may have them also. I use them on 6 oz leather and punch a hole for the shaft. I then punch them into a piece of soft rubber/poundo board. I then bend the tips over to hold them secure. Hope this information helps.

Like Johanna, I'd suggest going to a tile/counter top store and ask to see what they have left over from jobs and/or scraps. I found a piece of 18" x 24", 1.5" thick, granite for $20, and there was a wide variety to choose from. When I first started the holster-making business, I adopted/adapted a closet in one of the rooms of the house. I took the bifold doors off, got a piece (hardly damaged) of counter top and two or three slightly damaged kitchen cabinets from the local Lowe's store. The 6' long counter top was a perfect fit in the closet. I then put track lighting in there that simply plugged into an electrical outlet, and added a desktop lamp. I've used that basic set up for every shop set up I've done. It's quick, relatively inexpensive, and easy to set up (and take down/move). Here's a pic of our current shop set up when we first moved in (we've done a number of changes since then): I paid $20 for the 8' long countertop (slightly damaged) and about $40 for each of the small cabinets and about $60 for the double cabinet.

Regis: You're welcome to come down and visit me anytime you'd like and try out my Artisan 3000's. We're just east of Tampa. And we're at the shop Monday-Saturday, but if a Sunday would work better for you, we can do that, too. Let me know.

As Bruce mentioned, I have two of the Artisan 3000's. Actually I've had all of the machines (other than the Artisan 4000) that he mentions in his posting. I found the Tippmann BOSS to be the one I had the most difficulty with - and tried 3 of them (broke the first two). I then used the Model 5 from Neel's Saddlery next and that was a mighty fine machine, especially for the money. It will easily handle 1/2" of thickness. (The picture on his website is a different machine.) I used it for a couple of years and made a wide variety of items with it. I sold it and moved to the Artisan 3000. I have two of those that are used daily, along with their 618. The primary reason I have two is because I work on holsters that are different thicknesses, and I don't have the time to have to change out the thread/bobbin and make tension adjustments required. It's easier to have each machine set up for the appropriate thickness being sewn. The only difference between the Artisan 4000 and 3000 is the size/opening of the throat area (and price). The 4000 is best for large/heavy duty projects, while the 3000 works well for the smaller (in size) scale of projects. Both can handle large volume. I did over 1000 holsters last year, plus everything else, and had no hiccups.

Try the folks at Hermann Oak. They have something very similar to that, and it's relatively new. I have a couple of samples of it. I can't remember what the name of it is at this moment, but it's being used for briefcases and similar. On the back of one of the samples I have it says, "Water Repellant, Dry Milled." It comes in two colors - black and brown - and is 5/6 oz in weight. I've ordered a side of the black. Talk to Judith or Lee at Hermann Oak, and ask for a sample piece of this, and that they sold some to Kevin at K&D Holsters. They can easily look that up and get you a sample. Or send me an email, and I can send you a small piece from what I have.

I've ended up with two large spools of white thread. They were included in a shipment of other items from a leathercraft vendor. I have no need for them, as I do not use this type of thread on anything I make. It's a cotton thread. Each spool weighs 20 lbs. I'm not sure of the weight of the thread, as there are no markings on the spool itself. I would estimate it to be in the 277 weight area. Here's a pic: I'll sell each spool for $50 + actual shipping. If you want both spools, the price would be $80 + actual shipping. Feel free to contact me if interested or if you have any questions.

I'm looking for some decorative spots to put on holsters, gun belts, etc. I'm already familiar with the ones offered through Leather Factory. I'm looking for something that presents a little bit more professional image. Thanks!

ClayB - thanks for the tip/heads up. Now there's only 9 copies left, as I ordered mine today.

Just a little history - I've been buying various supplies, leather, exotic skins, etc., from the folks at Springfield Leather for a couple of years now. During that time, I've talked with quite a few of their staffers, but mostly talk with/deal with Hanna and Kevin (the owner). Oftentimes during these conversations we talk about a myriad of stuff, and so you get to know the folks a bit. Fast forward to today - I recently had some pretty serious health issues arise which put me in the hospital and the shop was closed down for nearly a week. I'm still recuperating and slowly getting back up to speed. I recently called and talked with Hanna and placed an order. She learned of the recent health issues and wished me a speedy recovery. I received the order today, and included in with the supplies was a get well card signed by all of the folks at Springfield Leather. I was a bit choked up, to say the least. I mean, how many companies do you do business with that would go beyond the professional courtesy normally extended and do something a bit more personal? This was a first for me. It certainly makes me appreciate the folks we interact with in the leathercraft industry. I just wanted to publicly express a heartfelt thanks to all the folks at Springfield Leather for their kind gesture.

Thanks for your help - I'll give it a try.

I have the same machine. I use 207 on top and 138 in the bottom. A common practice, at least what's been told to me by many folks, is to use one thread weight on top (i.e., 207) and the next lighter weight in the bobbin (i.e., 138). I do that with my two other Artisan 3000's (heavier thread) and it has always worked well. Hope this info helps.

I'm looking to obtain the shade of brown/oil tan that's shown on the holster in this link: https://secure.aaa-servers.com/epsaddlery.c...tails.php?id=18 I learned how to do it a couple of years ago, but haven't used it since. Thought I could remember and tried it recently. Needless to say, it did not turn out anywhere near what I thought it would. Any help on how to obtain the shade shown on the holster would be greatly appreciated.

I have a couple of different ones, and it depends on what I'm making as to which one I use. This is the one that goes on the holsters: I have it in two different sizes - 1" and 1.5"

While I'm sure there are others here with greater experience, my research has shown that most of the top makers in the holster making industry use the backs (cut from the sides). You can buy them direct from Hermann Oak (the most commonly used leather by the holster makers) if you're looking for a quantity. You can also buy the backs from other sources if you're looking for one or two pieces. They generally range in size from 16-20 sq feet. A grade "A" back will bring you a piece that has very little waste from it. You can get a fair amount from a grade "B" as well, depending on how picky you are with respect to marks on the grain side and how nappy the flesh side is. If you're lining the holsters, then you could most likely use those areas that have a fuzzier flesh side, provided they're clean enough on the grain side.

Another suggestion would be to take some small scrap pieces of the same type of leather you're going to be using. Take one piece and dip it once; take another piece and dip it twice; etc. Once they dry you'll see what the different "shades" are based on the amount of times dipped. My experience has been that you're not going to be able to tell right after you dip it what the final shade is going to be. This is because the leather is wet from the dye and actually appears darker. I use the non-powder latex gloves because they're easily put on/taken off and easily disposed of. A box of 50 costs around $5. Best of luck to you.

Correct, I put on powder free latex gloves, grasp the piece by the edges, and dunk/submerge it in the dye. I don't necessarily have a really tight grip on the piece, as not much is needed. I've not had any spots on the edges where the dye has not taken. Part of that may be contributed to by the ability of the leather itself to absorb the dye. In addition, I use either oil based dyes or what's referred to by the company as professional grade dyes. On rare occasion I'll use spirit-based dyes.

It depends on what I'm making. Basically every piece is held by its edges. This prevents any extra dye accumulating on the piece itself by the placing of my fingertips on the main portion of it. If I'm doing a holster I place it in the dye so that it's completely covered/submerged. I usually will hold it there for a couple of seconds and move/swish it around. This will ensure to catch any areas where an air pocket area has been created from the molding of the holster. Then I pull it out and let it drip dry for a moment. If I'm just doing one dip, then I wipe off any excess with a rag. If I'm doing a second dip, then I just repeat the above steps. If I'm doing a belt, I will take and run/pull the belt through the dye, starting at one end and until I get to the opposite end. Sometimes doing the belt is a two-person job because of the length. The second person will be on a step-stool/ladder right next to me, and as I run the belt through the dye, I will hand off the end to them to raise it up. I can usually do a belt that's less than 50" by myself, but I've had a couple that have been 70"+. Hope this info helps.

Ed: While the steel may be tempered, it still may not be that easy to bend. If your dies have sharp turns, you're putting even that much more stress on the steel. "Proper bending equipment" can be open for interpretation.... If I understand it correctly, once the "die" is made, you then have to set it into a corresponding piece of wood. Sounds like too much work in comparison to paying for a die to be made IMO. Not saying that it's not worth considering doing it yourself, just would suggest evaluating all that goes into making the die and whether you desire to do that. Most die making companies charge by the linear inch. There are a lot of good die making companies available to you. I, too, think it's a good idea if you can find someone local to you that has a clicker that you can use to cut out your leather. I've offered it to some of the local leathercrafters where I'm at. I use my clicker every day, but it's not going all of the time. The only issue you might run into is insurance coverage if you happen to hurt yourself while operating the machine. Some shops may have you sign a waiver of liability before they let you use the machine.

Tippmann's Boss was my first, second, and third machine. I broke the first two and sold the third off in frustration. The first machine was their old model; the second and third machines were their current model. The third machine I tried to work with for about eight months. Tippmann's customer service was/is exceptional and I certainly have no complaints about their willingness to help. I was just one of those people who could not get along with the machine. In fact, after I broke the second one, I told Jim Miller at Tippmann that before they came out with a new model of it to send it to me and let me try it out first. If I couldn't break it, then they knew they had a good machine. :biggrin: With respect to availability of a BOSS, there is a gentleman I know who may be getting rid of his. I'll check with him and see if he's still considering doing that. If he is, I'll send you a pm/email with respect to the details.

Clickers and dies are a huge timesaver. I've got two clickers - a 7-ton and a 15-ton, both from Tippmann. I use a number of different dies for holsters, knife sheaths, belt ends, rifle slings, and some other things. For example, it would take me approximately 35-45 minutes to trace and cut out a cowboy style of holster. With the clicker and the die, it's cut down to less than 3. While they are pricey: ~ $1500 for the 7-ton; ~ $3000 for the 15-ton; they've been paid for many times over in my business. Another consideration in getting a clicker is the weight of it and where you're going to put it. They're exceptionally heavy and wherever you set it will most likely be the place it remains. The 7-ton weighs about 250 lbs, the 15-ton weighs nearly 600 lbs. I bought the table offered by Tippmann for the 15-ton and made my own for the 7-ton. The flip side of using the clicker is getting the dies made. I have Tippmann make the dies for me. Their prices and turnaround time leaves everyone else in the dust IMO. Their dies have proven to be exceptional in their durability and maintaining a sharp edge. I've got a couple of dies that I would estimate I've cut out 1400-1500 holsters with and the edge is still sharp.

Van Amburg Leather Charles Hardtke Leather John Fong Leather Springfield Leather

You might also try the places that do kitchen cabinet work. I recently got a 18 x 24 inch, 1.5" thick, piece of granite that was left over from a previous job. The cost was $20. They had a large amount of various sizes and colors available.

I always mix reducer in with my dyes (other than black). The amount I use is 25-50% depending on what color I'm using - the most common amount of reducer is 25%. As ClayB mentioned, you can then apply the dye in "layers" to achieve the shade you're looking for. I mix a gallon of dye with a quart of reducer and pour both into a large container. I then kind of mix/jiggle the container. I then spray the item with water from a spray bottle a couple of coats. Then I just dunk/dip the item (holster, in my instance) in the container. Pull it out, let the dye soak in, and then most often will dip it in again. I've learned how many "dips" it takes to bring the leather to the shade I want. I use nothing but Hermann Oak, so I've learned how it reacts with the dye. (Sometimes I'll use a different type of leather if I have a two-layer holster. This will give me a slight two-tone effect from the dye.) You get a much more consistant finish with dipping than trying to use a dauber or other applicator IMO. I then wipe off whatever excess dye there is and let it dry overnight. Then in the morning I buff off the remaining excess. Here's an example: Here's a brown colored holster:

Sorry about my comments with respect to streaks on a holster as being a little out of place. My brain somedays gets tunnel vision.

It depends on where the streaks end up on the holster and how deep they are. Leather is generally offered in different grades, i.e., A, B, C, D. From the looks of your picture, that's probably a C grade, a B grade at the very best. You also might be looking at an area that's down closer to the belly - an area you definitely want to stay away from for holster construction. Ideally you want the back and/or shoulder area. Some places will sell you a "back" where the belly and a bit above that is wacked off, so you're left with the better parts of the original side. Springfield Leather will do that. Also, if you order from Hide Crafter again - ask for them to send you an "A" grade or "B" grade piece - same thing with Springfield Leather. If the streaks are mere marks, meaning there's no depth to them, then you should be fine. I personally stay away from any streaks/marks if at all possible. It just presents a much more professional appearance by doing that. Hope this info helps.