Billsotx

I'm not sure I should ask a computer question ... lol! Johanna, I sent you a gmail regarding the "closed" thread. I'm still working on my website ... slooowly At one time yahoo groups had a chatroom available on each site that members of those sites could use without interruption, but they seem to have done away with that when yahoo revamped "the groups." Is there another source for chatrooms? Maybe more private? I've seen the term IRC chat rooms. Are all chat rooms irc? I'm looking for a place that I can set up a chat room off and on so my old training group which is scattered across the southwest can get together and discuss business. For instance right now we're negotiating a new contract with an old client and I'd like to get 6 or 8 of my collegeaus together to try and resolve some issues. Phone tag is getting old. Nothing we'd say is secret, but I really don't want interruptions if I can avoid that. If an unwanted visitor drops into a chat room we can just kick him out, can't we? Actually he'd probably leave of boredom ... lol! Thanks in adance for your advice and ideas. ~Bill

Welcome Para. The pix is ok if you click on it and enlarge it. I'm sure Jo can explain, but like freak says, it is blurred in the thumbnail, but it is ok once enlarged (clicked on). Probably a difference in computers or ISPs, maybe browsers. Look forward to seeing more of your art. Thanks for sharing. ~Bill

Jo, I'm off to studying some of those widget, what's it, do it yourself, drop & cover ... lol ... maybe it was drag and drop, things I found on google. When I can figure some of this stuff out so you'll know what I'm talking about I'll email you. Believe me you're dealing with dumb and dumber here ... lol I appreciate you offering to help me with my "domain," (my Border Collie has one, but it's not on the web ... lol. Ten bucks sounds like a bargain to me. I'll gmail you. be in touch, ~Bill

Jo & Tom, Thanks for the info. I'm looking at the wysiwyg sites. There's a ton so that'll keep me busy. Tom I don't think you can eliminate your email address from those geo-cities web pages. That's why I haven't used that as a signature or posted it too many places and another reason I was thinking I might get a shot-cut. It looks like that's not a good idea either. I'll see if I can put something together from those build your own sites and then work on whatever will be next. Tom I'm still messing with a photo studio also. If I can get the quality that you have I think it'll workout. Lots to do and I have lots of time ... lol I appreciate you guys stearing me in the right direction.

Jo, What Tom said is what I meant, I think. Your offer is reasonable, ten bucks, but I don't know what you're talking about domain name, hosting, etc. You're dealing with dumb and dumber here. I don't have my page(s) quite like I want it. Do I need to get all the editing done before I go with your suggestions? Then I'm not sure it'll ever be done because I change, mostly add photos, as I make different things. The thing I put together is a Geo-cities thing - which is hooked to my ISP. I won't admit how long it took me to figure out that cheesey thing; it's on my profile - if it works ... lol. I figured if someone had to type that thing they wouldn't, so I thought I'd try to make it shorter.

Can a hot-link be shortened and still work? I've made a poor boyz web page that has a link that goes half-way around the world ... lol ... it'll take up two lines on a business card. I'm wondering if that thing can be done in short-hand without castrating it. I thought I saw how to do this on one of the leather computer forums but I haven't been able to find it. I know the "light & knowledge department" in webpages is here. I appreciate any help: Jo and others. Regards ~Bill

Well Mz. Jo, do you have a spotlight hanging up there among all those hides or have you gone hi-tech and graduated to NVDs ... lol

If you get a Boss email me and I'll tell you my method of tweaking it. I'd bet Bruce will give you some pointers too. Bruce helped me quite a bit and then I picked up some more pointers along the way. You'll have some options anyway. The video, at least the one I received, is ok in that you can see the machine in action and get a handle on the nomenclature. Especially where it shows you how to sew backwards. I don't stop and start my stitches like they show in the video and there's more they could show & tell you. The manual is good, especially the schematics but it is dated in my opinion. For instance if you call them they'll tell you to thread the machine different than in the manual - that's a GOOD THING! ... cause the way the manual shows no longer works. (Remember there's been updates ... lol I think you'll do ok with a Boss.

What you're doing will work. I line all my belts, two pieces of 6/7 oz and/or 7/8 oz. I usually use Barge. I do the buckle fold exactly as you describe. Stohlman's Belts Galore is an excellent book on belt construction. I skive the billets so the belts are so stiff and difficult to buckle and I punch seven holes 3/4 inch apart. One other thing you can do with the thicknesses you're working with is add a filler, same thickness as your other two, outer & liner straps, but slightly narrower; makes one handsome belt. An you could get into some fancy stitching. I've cut up some old belts that had nylon webbing sewn inside, I assume that's to prevent stretching. I've not done that, but I would consider it if I was forced to use light leather. Might as well build the thing to last the mile.

I've been using my Boss about 2 yrs. I ditto everything Bruce said. I like the fact that it's manual drive as I have complete control and I don't worry about sewing myself unintentionally when I'm working on real tight close curves. Unlike Bruce I only use the center foot. I could not get in close with the standard foot even after I shaved the sides and tried to modify it. I found their customer service excellent. I bought a rebuilt machince and as my luck would have it I got a lemon right out of the chute. Twenty minutes on the phone and I was told we're sending the brown truck by to pick it up and another one is being shipping out as we speak. Two days later I was in business. Like the above threads mention, it takes some tweaking. I won't go into that. If you get it let us know if you have problems. Don't be shy about calling Tippman if you have problems and if you call them for help be right there at the machine as they will talk you through any problems. I did not have any problems or make any calls on the replacement they sent; just followed the instructions. I did not get the stand. I mounted mine on a 3/4 piece of birch ply that I had laying around and I sometimes pack it off to other places to sew. I'm not sure what you'll wear out, but like Bruce mentioned, a hundred bucks gets you a complete rebuild. Good luck with whatever you pick. Regards ~Bill

What I was told when I tried to order from Weaver about a year ago is that you must provide them with a proof of business license, tax number, etc. because Ohio law mandates that they cannot sell otherwise - e.g. retail. I found this to be very helpful. They don't care what kind of business they sell to. If you know someone with a business license that'll let you use their # you should be able to order whatever you need. They didn't volunteer the later but when I asked that's what I was told. It's worth a phone call.

These plates (from above links) appear to be plaster of paris: http://www.jimallred.com/detail.aspx?ID=439 I also have seen styrofoam with felt glue over it for these center cover caps. It serves to cover the bases of the antlers which are attached to the wood plaque with screws. You might purchase one of those sets, they're cheap enough, and use one to make you a mold. Work in reverse. I believe you can get a kit to make rubber molds like those used for plaster work. Besides bondo, Marine-Tex is an option. I've seen those center caps, like in the links dsenette posted above, made of styrofoam with a thin felt cover molded and glued over them. Gander Mountain used to sell them. Instead of being inletted on the front side like those in the links (above) the styrofoam is hollow on the backside so as to fit over the base of the antlers. If the hollow in the styrofoam is not large enough to slip over the skull plate, antler's base and screws, there's room for some carving and hollowing out of the foam. The antlers are attached to the wood shield with screws and the styrofoam cap is glued in place to hide the base of the antlers, screws, skull plate, etc. I would think that cap could be covered with and unlimited assortment of exotic leathers, hair-on deerhide - let you imagination run wild. Hope this makes sense. Don't know if it'll help ya. Sounds like a fun project. Good luck with it. regards, Bill

Howdy Paul, If you come to Texas you'd be welcome. Someday I'd like to visit Scotland and see why my G-Granddad left there; something about the queen taking his guns and getting all his folks killed off. I think they were all deserters ... lol ... pulled up stakes just before the clearances. ... Bows and rawhide, now that sounds fun. Quivers, rawhide strings? Welcome to Jo's Leather Den ... lol Talk later, Bill

Sorry to hear that Holly. My condolences. Regards, Bill

Let me know when y'all get to the adults only part, I'll run out and buy a bigger monitor

Hey Kat, Ouch! It's not like tatooing , not your arm, the leather and it takes 2 needles - say, "Two!" ... lol

R U chatting Sat. nite (7th) ?

Lexol is all I just a lot of times.

I have a preference: Lexol. It changes color especially natural russet color hardly at all. It rejuvenates. There is no residual oiliness to the touch. It is less like to stain clothing. It's easy to apply; follow directions on the container. Otherwise experiment you may learn something unique.

Wes, I use harness needles. I'd keep a supply of both the 0 and 000 sizes. I use waxed 5 strand thread. I remove a strand or two if it's too bulky for what I'm sewing. Being able to remove strands and retwisting strands saves me having a bunch of money in a bunch of thread. I use one color - white. I like white on natural leather. If the project gets dyed, the thread gets dyed. ... good luck

I'm no expert on black dye, but I get no rub-off with Fiebing's oil dye. I don't do anything special. Just clean my leather and apply a coat of black. Let it dry 24 hrs. and buff, then apply a second coat and buff again after another 24 hrs. I tried that voodoo blue / black with the Institutional dye, USMC Black and Black Pro dye and they all rub off. It works with the black oil dye but I found it's an added step that does nothing that I can actually see or find beneficial - nothing tangible. Poor ol' Dave won't retire this year because I'm only buying black dye - no blue dyes - especially no royal blues ... sorry Dave - don't cash in your 401K just yet ... lol

I don't know anything about restoring leather, but experience tells me if I had an old piece I wanted to keep around, I would put Lexol Conditioner & Preservative on it. I've never tried Lexol NF. I should have said that before. LEXOL - is a brand name, sorry about that. (NF - that's probably a neatsfoot product, but I don't know that for a fact.)

Going ahead with the light leather will give you some good experience and possibly a proto-type you can improve on. Go for it. It's just leather. I think you'll settle on 7-9 oz depending on the style. I'd like to see your pattern hence know the style. You said you weren't going to use a pull through snap so in my mind you're not making the holster in the photo. You mentioned thumb break which are geneally used on horizontal and upside down rigs. The thumb breaks I've seen in muzzle down shoulder holsters do not allow a firing grip to be obtained at initial presentation. If the holster requires regriping and juggling the pistol during presentation it would be my choice. I think wax is a finish not a product to restore. I vote for Lexol but I've not ust Dr. Jackson's products, however, I've heard they are top notch. Either will probably work.

... and label that clean shoe brush "black" because it will be black from then on, or you'll have something blackish that you don't want. I already done that, you don't need to test it ... lol

True black? ... or blue black ... Hidehandler? ... where is Dave anyway? The Nashville Rebel could cheer everyone up ... it's too quiet over here ... lol!