Billsotx

My mouse is sticking and sometimes runs off the screen, what causes that? This just started a few days ago. I downloaded Ad Aware (because my subscription to Spyware expired) a few days ago and I didn't have this problem before that, could that be the problem?

I would not use a thonging chisel for sewing with thread, as the holes are too large as you point out; they are more suited for lacing. A small piece of neopreme a.k.a. Pound-o-board (or gum rubber like Line-o-Tex) glued to a piece of soft pine makes a good support backing and protects your fingers. "The Art of Hand Sewing" is the bible when it comes to hand stitching, however, I do not gouge sewing channels if I'm sewing grain side out because that removes the strongest of the fiber. Instead of cutting a groove I press a groove into the grain side with a modified dental pick. The groove only needs to be deep enough to let the thread lie below the surface of the leather. If I'm making a long straight groove I use the TLF nylon bone folder to press in that groove, but the modified dental pick makes for easy cornering. A creaser will also work if you happen to have one. Remember to punch your awl holes diagonal to your stitch line as Stolhman illustrates. That really sets off your work. Large thong holes or round holes are unsightly and shout "KIT!" ... nothing wrong with kits, but I don't want what I cut and built mistaken for a kit.

Alex, ¿Did I mention that I got it up and running? . . . é á ñ . . . many thanks, ~Bill

I spread Barge with plastic credit cards. Save all those junk mail promo credit cards that you probably get in the mail everyday and you have an endless supply. Cut them into strips, in half or use them whole depending on how wide your glue line is.

Thanks Alex, I'll give that a try.

Is there a way to type Spanish, those letters with the accent marks, without reconfiguring the PC keyboard to that language?

Johanna, I would like to see more workshops like this. As far as traditional holster building what John has recorded is excellent. If we couple his instructions with the photos in the Stohlman book on holsters, we have a good explanation of how to build that type of holster. (I will comment on firearms safety and holster design in addition to what John has said below. He makes it clear that we should live by the four rules.) As far as wet molding, I approach that like any other project casing. Let the holster dry until it begins to show signs of surface drying. At that point insert the gun into the holster and then mold and bone in any details you want. I use real guns when I build holsters, sometimes my customer's guns (with their permission), and I do not wrap the gun in plastic or heavily oil it. I want it bone dry. A blue gun will leave black marks - that's a given - so advise your customer of that. It'll get those marks and more with short use. As far as casing, most people work the leather way too wet. If you work it too wet you do not get a glove tight fit and the gun gets all wet besides. A new holster should require break in. From the very first presentation it begins to wear out and there is nothing you can do about that. It's just fact. In my limited experience I have concluded most folks continue to use their holster long after its servicable life. When it gets to the point that the gun shifts around in the holster, just minutely, it is done and should be retired. As far as how wetness (casing): if you wait for "proper" casing the gun will be dry when you remove after molding and simply wiping it off with a clean cloth is all that's required. (If finished then oil it lightly if that's your fancy.) Once you are finished with the molding, then immediately remove the gun from the holster and let it dry. I do not force dry, but you can. Some use hairdryers and some use ovens. I just lay the holster aside and in front of a fan and dry it au naturale If I want retention built in, then I gently squeeze the holster back into the same shape it was before I pulled the gun from it. If you wrap the holster in plastic you will end up with that much added tolerance. I don't wrap them and my guns have never rusted. As far as finish wear - that's a given. If you do not want the finish to wear then don't put the gun in a leather holster - lock it away in your safe. If I get my guns wet, I have fallen into water more than once, I just pull them down completely and dry the off with a soft cotton rag and then lubricate them as per the manufacturer's suggestions. ... now to Jim's question ... Jim, I'm fond of making test samples (prototypes) from heavy poster board. It 'stiff and more closely resembles leather than paper does. You can glue it or tape it or even stitch it or all three. When I measure incorrectly and cut "more short" than "more long" (Bruce is ROTF) I just tape a piece of scrap back on and cut again. Like ol' Norm Abrams tells us "measure twice, cut once." After you get it laid out make a nice finished pattern but don't be too quick to trash the tape-up. I use blue painter's masking tape because it's easy to tear and work with, and most of all it does not leave residual glue behind. When I reach the time for a test drive I use that hundred-mile-an-hour tape the U.S. Air Force is so fond of and I actually strap it on and wear it for several hours at the very least. Regardless, I sometimes end up making a leather prototype and end up scraping that before I reach my final destination. I would suggest that the trigger guard be covered. At the very least cover the trigger so the finger cannot be placed on the trigger when the presentation is made. If your customer puts a red racing stripe down his leg he may decide it's your fault. Stupid is as stupid does, but (s)he'll try to blame someone else. I've heard all the experts say that most folks shoot themselves while holstering (call it reholstering if you want) but that is not what I've witnessed. I have seen five people shoot themselves on my ranges, and each was upon presentation, nor holstering. I was standing within arm's reach of three of them and only yards away from the other two. Back when the old Safety Speed clamshell holsters were popular with police we had a not of personal injuries. That secret button that had to be pushed to free the handgun was just in front of the trigger and it was an invitation to negligence. "Keep your finger off the trigger ... least you beat yourself to the draw. We had over a hundred personal shootings during a 20 year span with that silly holster and none that I recall involved holstering (reholstering). 'nuff said about that, but I live by the four rules. They are literally my "lifestyle" - no exceptions. The Four Cardinal Rules: 1. All guns are loaded. (I know four cops that were shot with "unloaded" guns ... dah!) 2. Never point the muzzle at anything you are not willing to destroy. (Period!) 3. Keep your finger off the trigger until you have made the decision to shoot. 4. Be sure of your target and beyond. In my opinion, if you shoot yourself, especially in the middle of a gun-fight, you defeat the purpose of what you were trying to do. As far as liners, I don't like them. The only one I had, more than 40 years ago, didn't last 6 months. Granted I'm hard on gear. Guns are nothing but tools for me. That said, "if" a customer wants it - install. Charge extra and warn them of the maladies if they insist. Liner's are dirt and debris magnets and they'll sand the finish right off the piece. In John's instructions he also mentions that it attracts moisture and it does. It's no secret that leather attracts moisture and a gun should not be forgotten or stored in a leather holster. If someone stores their gun in a leather holster, they'll soon learn they should not. OK! ... I'll get off my soap-box ... lol I hope this makes sense. Let me know if you have questions. Maybe I can answer them. 'til later, Bill

Well Freak, any man worth his salt is going to tell you - El es grande. Muy Grande! ... lol!

Clay, This probably would not have helped with the problem you experienced but I always start spraying the finish off to the side of the project and hold the nozzle down until I've moved off the project before I let it go. This works especially well when spraying a finish on wooden furniture whether it's a spray can or a spray gun. I don't have an air brush but I watch a guy use one a while back and he did the same thing. Might come in handy somewhere down the line. Good lookin' bear you got there. Thanks for sharing your experience with us. ~Bill

Jim, there's some examples in Tech Tips.

Sssshhhhhh ... we don't want the ladies to know that men never read instructions until they get into trouble ... lol! ... I don't need a map. I'm not lost, I'm right here!

It's probably not worth the trouble to change. I no computer wizard either. In Paint when you draw in you text box it should display a tool bar that allows you to change the font type and the point size. I'd go for something sans serif, like Arial, if it were me. It's boring, I suppose, but it reads pretty easier than those busy he-ro-graphic ol' script things. Maybe during one of her breaks between cups of coffee, an afternoon beer and a couple of cigars Johanna can wave her magic wand over it ... lol! Just kiddin' Johanna. I know you're busier than a hot cat on a tin roof. I'd leave this one alone, Clay, and maybe try another font on the next one. I'm not much of a carver, but I've learned a couple things just lookin' a your pix. When I slow down in a couple of hours, I'll come back and ponder that script and learn some more.

Johanna, is there a way to enlarge the text on the photos or change it. That font is impossible for my old eyes - even though they're now 20/20. I went to View and my largest print but it doesn't touch it. Clay the carving looks good and I appreciate you sharing, but I know not what you wrote. OK ... I'll quit whining and find something else to complain about. Again, thanks for sharing your hard work. Regards, ~Bill

"The Sling with No Name" opens Friday at the Empire Theater, Baggs, WY ... lol ... couldn't resist that one Clay.

Jim Linnell showed me how to make a feather. I'm not sure this is what you're looking for. We used a 202L & R beveler and common hair-line type blade to get veins. Quill is a piece of wire. The paintin' part is what I'm no good at.

I'll add this so you don't get discouraged. What Greg has said is not easy or everyone would be doing it. The application of antiques is a mistique in my experience. I've been trying to figure this antique thing out for over a year now and all I get is what looks like a project that some auto mechanic cleaned his hands with. Make sure you follow Greg's steps to the letter if you try his method. I've got closest following what he says, but I haven't won the cigar - yet! I'm well into my second jar of paste so I'm getting some miles under my belt ... lol ... one of these days ... I'll never quit ... if those guys can do it, so can I! ... grrrr ... practice, practice, practice ... persistence solves mysteries. By the way. Mosby uses an airbrush a lot. In fact, several of them; depends on what he is doing. Purely speculation, but that finish on that guitar strap you posted is probably sprayed on. I don't recall what brushes he uses for dye; sable - I think - but you can bet they are not cheesy dime store stuff.

Jim welcome to Jo's Leather Palace ... Please don't hold having all the Tandy stores against us Rebs. We'd sell you a couple, real cheap, but they might sue Johanna and we can't afford to loose her ... lol!

Johanna covered it pretty well. I wouldn't mess with something like this. Too many unknowns, unless the belt was one you sold previously. Even then I ask and try to determine that some other finish wasn't applied after I sold it.

Buenas Dias Johanna, I believe we're the ones who owe you a Big Thanks! gal. The board is shaping up nicely. Hope your T-Day went well. May the sun shine on you in the days that follow. ... til later, ~Bill

What does this have to do with leather? Heck Joe, leather runs deep in our history and always will. For instance, fifty years from now there's gonna be an ol' 2006 Chopper with a veg-tan hand tooled seat by Bad-A** Seats sitting in a museum and some two kids are going to be checking it out and oooing and awwing and one of them is gonna ask, "Why's that old naked lady carved on that seat?" ... lol ... now that will be history, but I won't be around to see it. [How long will it be 'til Shirley finds this one? ... lol!] Now I better cool it before she Armor-All's my seat ... lol

Jo, I believe Tandy probably owns the copyright to the Doodle Pages since they published and distributed them. The probably objected to the CDs being made, sold and distributed because there was money changing hands. I'm no lawyer, but I have had some dealings with copyright. If you want to brush up on it get a copy of Writer's Market from the library. It's covered there in layman's terms pretty well.When you, I, we write, draw, take a photo of something we own that copyright. As it rolls off the keyboard it is copyrighted. You can actually register it and apply for a copyright if you are into spending money. That is no longer a necessity. It is wise to always place your by-line or pen-name on your work and it doesn't hurt to place one of those little copyright symbols on there either. Unless the author sells the copyright to someone it remains the author's and his heirs for his lifetime plus 50 years (this maybe be 100 years, but I believe it was changed to 50). The author can sell rights to a publisher. Example: In the 70s I did a lot of freelance writing and I would only sell "First North American Serial Right; For one time publication." That allows the author to resell his work to another country or publisher or medium. The exception - the author is being paid to write, draw, photograph, create, etc. In which case the copyright belongs to the employer, contractor; if you write or drawn on company time, it belongs to the boss - don't get caught ... lol. I'm looking at some TLF D-pages by Moody, Lair, Hoyt, McKay; we know Moody worked for Tandy so his work is probably copyrighted to Tandy. He probably had a contract and he or his heirs may get royalties. I'm sure these are all covered by contract. Would anyone be interested in downloading old Doodle Pages if I scanned them? I'm interested! As long as you don't sell them or put them up on the web for free picking I don't think you'll hear from Tandy. Of course, the Doodle Page Police may be working UC on this board, so now we're burnt ... lol Is it legal to scan the ones I have and making them available for download? Could I be sued for sharing what Tandy once gave away? The D-pages I have here clear state No reproduction, etc. Tandy has the money and I'm sure the machinery to go after you if you get into circulation. Definitely if you begin to sell them. That's not what you're about. If them deem you are getting into business and making money off their property they sue you, otherwise you "may" received a letter demanding that you cease and desist. If that happens comply. Who owns the Doodle Pages, the authors, or Tandy? Do I need permission from anyone to share something I obtained from Tandy at no charge? More that likely Tandy owns them; at least the ones I have here. You have to have permission if you want to be legal. Why is it legal to sell Doodle pages on eBay but not give them away with no expectation of profit? Selling D-pages on ebay is like selling books or magazines on ebay. But start to copy, reproduce and especially to distribute and/or circulate and that's a copyright violation. Otherwise you are selling used D-pages, books, magazines, etec. - totally legal, "if" you own them. Am I the only person who thinks it's outrageous that Tandy is trying to make a profit from old Doodle Pages? The pages belong to them and it's their property. They can give them away, sell them, destroy them, recycle them into T-paper if they want. I have hard copies of "free" Doodle Pages from the sixties through the nineties. Are there any attorneys in the house? If you scan and send through personal, off list, emails you probably will not hear a thing. If you decide to share them and you are told to cease and desist - comply. I don't know if Greg's mother or Greg are getting royalities from his Dad's doodle pages, but maybe he can fill in some of the blanks. Bottomline - it's illegal. Will Tandy call you own it? Probably if you make a spectical of it. How will they know if you send me and Shirley and scan - unless Shirley is working UC for the D-Page Police - she sure was quick to accept ... lol ... Just kidding Shirley. Now if you make doodle pages of that sexy Bad-to-the-bone Bad-A erotic lady you been puttin' on them chopper seats - I'll buy one! ... lol

Yep, and I'm planning a trip up to theCuster Battle Field and the Cody Museum next spring and hope I hope I can meet her - put a face with all the emails we've done. She's forgot more about leather than I'll every know. Maybe, I'll get lucky and catch one of her classes like you did. I'll bet you got your monies worth and then some.

Cool! I had forgot about the one with the splitter. Her files are the next best ... where's she at? I'm going to have to save my pennies and buy her a new computer. Verlane! Verlane! Where are you? ...

Thanks Johanna. Yes, I got the email. This is cool! I sincerely appreciate your help. be in touch, Bill

I agree the Safety Beveler is good even if it appears cheap. The roundknife works too. Jo, someone posted a tutorial on another site regarding skiving with the roundknife; I don't know if you remember that. I think it was Verlane. I think I printed it and will try to find it. The reason I think it was her, is it was a PDF - at least I think it was. Anyway, since she gave you permission to use some of her others, she might share that with us too. Not trying to be the preacher ... lol ... I know you're busy.