LeatherWerks

Thanks for the reply Darren. It looks like a nice machine, I'll probably take it to Missouri Sewing Machine Company in Kansas City and have them give it a tune-up. I've read that you can even sew light leather on this machine, is that true? Steve

I went to the Singer serial number site to see what I could find. Based on the serial number, it was made around 1938. Is it possible the machine was electrified later? The serial number is: AE878765. Steve

Thanks Bob

Picked this old Singer from an Estate sale recently. I know it's not a leather machine (got that covered) but since it went for cheap and it works, I had to have it. I've been looking for a model number but haven't found one. It does have a serial number but guess that won't help much. Does anyone know what model this is? Thanks, Steve

TinkerTailor and OLDNSLOW, thanks for the replies. Yes, it's possible that the rubber track could be from a snowboard buckle or something like that, I hadn't thought of that. I'll drop by my local sporting goods store and do some further research. As to the belt, I bought one, not a cheap one, it cost me 45.00. I too was concerned with the whole cutting it to fit thinking the stitching would unravel once cut. For some reason, it didn't and the belt seems to work pretty well. I probably have 15 or 20 belts in a box that I have worn out since I first started making them. We'll see how this holds up. I want the rubber track, so I can make my own belt, probably not for sale but so I can make it to size out of top-grain leather. If I find the material, I'll post it so anyone who would like to make on can find the parts to do so. Steve

I've searched high and low over the internet trying to find the rubber track that is used in making a 'Ratchet Belt'. It must be a guarded secret as I can't find a single listing telling what the material is, or what the source is. Now, there must be a hundred different companies that make these type of belts; one would think it would be pretty easy to find the parts used in one of these belts. To me it looks like some form of timing belt material but that's just a best guess. Anyone out these know what the rubber track is and where I can buy some of it? Thanks, Steve

I saw one thread about this subject, and thought I'd see if anyone knows a supplier for these materials. Basically a ratchet belt is one with no holes. A plastic track is sewn into the inside of the belt and the buckle locks into the track. Seems like a really cool concept. Problem is finding the track material that is used in these belts. I've done a pretty extensive Google search and have found nothing. Anyone know where I can find this material? Thanks

Wiz, I can always could on you to give a concise explanation of the issue. Thanks for taking the time to explain this to me. LeatherWerks

It's been a really long time since I got to do much leather work as I was in a car accident last year. Now I'm back in the saddle, (so to speak) back on the forum, but just as dumb as before. I'm having a bit of trouble getting this Juki to sew correctly again. It's nothing serious, I just need a refresher on how to adjust the tension on the machine to get the stitch results I'm looking for. Can anyone help with this one? All I need to know is if I tighten this, it will do that kind of stuff. Thanks, Leatherwerks

Thanks Dan and all the others who replied. Steve

Recently I purchased a Campbell Randall Keystone splitter and skiver. It's just the same as the Weaver Heritage or Osborne I guess. Looks like a good quality product. I bought it new and thought the blade would be sharper that what it is. Does anyone know the proper way to sharpen this blade? I do have a surface plate which is about as flat as you can get if I need a flat surface. Steve

I use a Starrett divider. Starrett is known in the industry as some of the finest tools made. Typically machinist and pattern makers use this quality of tool. I took mine and rounded off the points and polished them up. They mark a perfect line on leather every time. You'll pay good money for this level of quality, but likely, it will be the last divider you'll ever need to buy. Make sure you buy the machinist type and not the carpenters type. Search Amazon for Starrett Divider. Steve

Okay, it appears that either the price is too high or nobody is interested in these hides. Here's what I'll do. Any one item of your choice $100.00. I really don't see where you can buy leather at these prices. I'm going to make this offer available until July 5 at 10pm CDT. After that they go to Ebay. All the same shipping and payment conditions apply. Steve

I have some Hermann Oak leather that I am going to sell. I am willing to sell a really good prices to folks here on leatherworker. If it doesn't sell here, off to Ebay it goes. Here's what I have. 2 Hermann Oak sides. I would consider them 'B' grade. They are 5/6 ounce and are 24/26 sq.ft. each. I am asking 175.00 each. 2 Hermann Oak backs. I would call these an really good B grade. They are 2/3 ounce and are both about 18 sq.ft. I am asking 140.00 ea. 1 Hermann Oak side, grade C. Not stiff like the other sides, 5/6 ounce, 24/26 sq. ft. I'd probably use it to make a bag where I was looking for that 'aged' look. Flesh side is rough, not smooth. I am asking 110.00 for this one. 2 Hermann Oak Sides, Chocolate Brown. These have some horizontal lines in them so I am going to call them B, B- quality. They are 5/6 ounce and average 24/26 sq.ft. I am asking 140.00 each. I am attaching pictures so you can see the grain texture on these hides. I will sell in the Continental United States only, no overseas or Canada...sorry. Shipping will be by UPS where available, and I'll charge actual cost, no surcharge for my time. Price of a box and whatever UPS charges for freight. Payment using Paypal only. I'll send you an invoice, you pay it, and it ships. If you need more info, send me a PM Steve

I guess nobody has ever attended this event. I guess it is a bit off the beaten path in Ohio, so probably not a big draw. Since I'll be in the area on the days the auction is on, I provide some coverage and photos of what I see and hear. Stay tuned. Steve

I'm going to be in the area where the Weaver auction is taking place June 18 and 19. Has anyone ever attended this auction? Who are the people/companies that bring products to the auction? Is it good stuff or just left over stuff? Steve

Had the very same thing happen to me. Was using a rawhide mallet and this thing just fell apart. I spoke direct with Osborne in New Jersey, the customer service department. They had me send it back and they replaced it. I think there was a few of these that got into the supply chain that were defective. Steve

I disagree to some extent. We're talking about product liability issues and over zealous lawyers that will attempt to show a jury that your holster is somehow defective. That you don't have a quality control department, you don't have an engineering division and so on. You will find lawyers that will go that route, especially after they find out you have enough money to make it worthwhile. You could hire a good expert witness to refute the lawyers claim. One that comes to mind is John Bianchi. If anyone knows gun leather, it's John Bianchi. You could fly him in, set him up in a nice hotel, pay him 500.00 an hour and he might convince a jury that the prosecutor is incorrect. The whole point I was making with my post is that for very little money, you could set up your company as an LLC. If the tragic event we've been discussing ever occurred, and the lawyer saw that the LLC owned an edger, a couple of round knives and a Tippmann Boss, then it would probably never get to court in the first place. Steve

Sorry folks, I wish I could saddle stitch like that but I did this on a Cobra 4 machine. As to the edge, I used the 'Bob Parks' method. After sanding and edging, I rubbed glycerin soap into the edge followed by some regular saddle soap. Bob suggests the yellow saddle soap but it tends to discolor the white thread. I rub the edge with canvas until I get a smooth edge. I then dye the edge. The result is a decent edge but I don't think you'll ever get the edge you can achieve with veg tanned leather. David L ask how I got the two layers of leather to sit flush. I cut the veg tanned strip wider than the chromexcel strip, glue the two pieces together and when set, use my round knife to cut the two edges flush. I then sew the layers together using an edge guide. I've never tried the soldering iron method but I understand this method works very well. Steve

You could make some dog collars with the stuff. I use it as the outside of the collar and line it with veg tan on the inside. Makes one of the softest collars around. Steve

Let's assume for a minute you build a holster for person X. This person loves the holster, but for some reason some Sunday morning the gun falls out of the holster, hits the ground, discharges, and kills an innocent by-stander. A civil suite is brought against the person carrying the gun in YOUR holster. The person and their attorney suggests that the holster YOU built is somehow defective, not the correct amount of retention, or some obscure factor none of us could never see as a problem, except for lawyers...they see ALL the possibilities. You have a 1 million dollar policy to cover these matters, but your net worth (your cars, your home, your 401Ks) is much more than the face value of the policy. Will the lawyers cut you some slack and just sue for the value of the insurance policy.....probably not. In court they will sue for an amount higher than the total value of all your assets in hope the jury will award most of your assets to the plaintiffs. How do you protect yourself? You can't operate as person A (dba) "doing business as" X leather Company. To truly protect yourself, at minimum, you have to set your company up as an LLC, a Limited Liability Company. As a LLC company, you can still be sued, but only for the assets directly owned by the Limited Liability Company. There are many rules as to how your business assets are titled, and how you conduct business in general. Your attorney can explain this. I use to make gun holsters....I don't anymore except for myself. I now make mostly dog collars. Can you imagine how much someone would sue me for if their prized dog broke it's collar and bolted into a busy intersection just because he or she saw a squirrel? Could I ever expect that dog to be strong enough to break my prized dog collar? We live in a sue happy society but there are ways to protect yourself. Contact an attorney, setup the best business model for your particular situation, .....you'll sleep better and if you do get sued, you'll probably not be doing leather work in a box under your local highway overpass. Steve This is not legal advice but information I've learned over the years. Don't let lawyers take all your assets if something goes wrong.

Ordered mine on March 30 and got them on April 28. Ed probably was preparing for the Sheridan show, and has more work than a one man show can handle...don't we wish we all had that problem. The product looks and works great. Steve

Okay, got my burnishers today. Top quality product, no complaints. Steve

I purchased a full hide of veg tanned leather that is embossed with an Ostrich pattern. The leather came from Springfield Leather. The leather has a identification sticker showing that it came from a tannery in Mexico. I love the smell of leather, but this leather has a really overpowering smell. It smells like leather until you get right up on it. My best description of the smell is the 'Scotts Weed and Feed with Halts' fertilizer homeowners put on their lawns in early spring here in the Midwest. I planned on making some dog collars and leashes from this leather, but it would almost be cruel to strap such a smell to a dogs neck. The only other thing I noticed about this leather was it has a white powder much like talc on the skin side. If anyone has seen anything like this before, your comments would be appreciated. Steve

I'll only comment about the Juki 1541S as this is one of the machines I own. If you're doing heavy leather, this is not your machine. If you're doing lighter material, then you'll love the Juki. You can get this machine through Keystone in PA new for not much more than 1400.00 but you'll still have to pay shipping. I use it to do upholstery work mostly, and it's a dream to sew with. The heaviest thread I use is #136. It may sew #46 but I've never used thread that small. I'm sure other real experts will chime in...they helped me decide on the Juki. A servo motor is a must, as you can sew at a crawl or as fast as the machine will run. The safety clutch feature, the 'S' in 1541S will save you some repair bills if you happen to sew in to something like a rivet or something that could damage non-safety clutch machines. Steve