TonyV

I saw the 45 rpm adapter at 1st, as well. The 2nd one looks like a Japanese kamon or crest.

That looks similar to a Doc Holliday rig, like in the movie Tombstone or Doc Holliday. Definitely an older style rig, late 19th century, early 20th century type. Sorry, I have no details for you, but there should be plenty of options around.

Very nicely done. That is a lot of excellent hand stitching, especially without a clam or pony. Wear it with pride.

I love it. You executed well. Yeah. Leave it to Tom Threepersons to design something like this. Simple, clean, highly functional and just a bit devious! I think this concept would be simple to adapt to a basic revolver hoster.

Also, buff the leather after the dye has dried. That helps alleviate much of the rub-off. Another route to take would be to chisel your stitchline after the dye job, instead of before. That also helps prevent thread staining. THis method does have the potential of showing raw leather inside the stitch line, however. There are pros and cons both ways.

Amazon has 'How to Carve Leather' by Al Stohlman and several other leatherworking books available in Kindle format for less than $8. US.

Saddle stitching without a pony is certainly doable. On Youtube Corter Leather has a very good vid on how to do it. A few practice pieces and you're off to the races.

Lots of practice, good tools, good leather, a quality finish and a good buffing. Easy peasy.

If you have Stohlman's book How to Make Holsters, the pattern for Hi-Point .22 on page 19, or for 9mm Luger on page 27 should work. The Ruger Mk II is very similarly shaped to both. This book also has concise instructions on how to make pistol patterns. Of course, you would need access to the pistol. Would you be able to go to the pistol club to draw the outline of the gun? Not sure how NZ's laws work. Or, the owner might draw the outline for you, avoiding breaking any hinkey laws, and gives you the basis for a simple fold-over pattern. If you know how to make a knife sheath with this method, you can make a pistol holster the same way.

Chicago screw is a simple fastener. A simple solution is in order. Chicago screws with a rubber washer is fine, if you want to buy them. In the mean time, if the only C screws you have don't include a rubber washer, simply use a small drop of rubber in the spot where the washer would fit. Give it a couple minutes to dry, and voila, you have a rubber washer, thanks to the rubber cement you likely already have on hand. C screws dont need to be real tight, either. I get good results simply holding the base with a fingertip while I tighten the screw.

There are so many different ways and means of concealed carry that vary depending on your weapon, your body type, clothing and other factors. Before you try to decide what holster to build I suggest you research those different methods and reasons. I second the motion to get training, as well. Carrying is a big decision with potential life-changing consequences. I usually carry a small 9mm IWB at the 4 o'clock position. When I tuck my shirt in, I can leave it tucked loosely around the pistol so that it won't snag or be visible. I also sometimes carry in my pocket. Texas does indeed have concealed carry without a permit for age 21 and over non-prohibited people since 2021. There is also a CCP still available. Check your local laws before making any decisions. When you're ready to carry, building your own holster is very satisfying and a matter of pride.

I second this motion. There are also a lot of Youtube vids that teach holster making from the very simple Slim Jim to extravagant carry rigs, tooled, reenforced, etc etc. Start reading and watching. When you have more questions, there are several on this forum that can help. But first, a suggestion. The basic steps, and basic tools of holster making are not a lot different than the basics of any other leather project. If you can make a simple wallet or belt, you can make a holster. A holster is not much more than a pouch, anyway. Go for it!

Nice desigh, I like it. Did you use rivets or chicago screws to attach the holster to the strap?

It's all a matter of personal preference. First, a stiff gun belt helps distribute the weight of the gun all around the hips. Lighter, more flexible belts let the gun's weight hang all in one spot. Hard to wear all day. Modern belts are often heavier, and sometimes with a plastic stiffener between the lining and outer layer. This adds complexity and expense to the build. Unless you wear a gun and reloads all day, it's probably overkill for most people. If you're looking to build an authentic belt that's only being worn on occasion, think simplicity, quality and economy. Use a good quality veg tan about 9-10oz or thicker. Some people like a liner, some don't, but a 2-3 oz veg is what I might use if I did choose to line, which I only did once. The flesh side or rough out can help the belt from slipping around, but that doesn't require a liner, just use the flesh side of your strap for that purpose. I've seen several historical gun belts and they run the gamut of thickness, lined or not. I don't bother lining belts. In a holster, preference is still in play. If you line it, be certain it is veg, not chrome. Some people use a suede liner (again, be certain it is veg, not chrome. The mineral salts can contribute to corrosion of the gun) because it helps with retention. Some prefer a smooth liner to help a faster draw, and rely on a hammer loop retainer, which I feel is more authentic. I've built a few Slim Jim holsters, all unlined, open toe, loop thong to go over the hammer.

Manufacturers often use custom made colors. You might want to blend your own color to match. That color looks more gray than blue, so I would start with gray and tint with blue to suit. The only gray dyes I've found are in water-based dyes. RIT dye, generally a fabric dye, is a water-based dye that can be used on leather, and they have the widest range of colors that I'm aware of.