TonyV

Yessir. This works too, in a pinch! Water, spit, beeswax, tokenole, gum tragacanth, saddle soap, neetsfoot oil or any combination of the above. The finishing agent is actually less important, IMO, than good clean cut edges and the application of friction, not pressure, to smooth and polish the leather edge. Sandpaper helps tidy up some rough edges. Burnishing tools include, but not limited to, wooden burnishing tool, plastic burnishing tool, denim or canvas, even the wooden tool handle of an edger. You will find your own preferences and methods.

Beautiful work with some unique style. well done.

I use beeswax on my thread to help reduce fraying, needle tips and awls to ease the stitching, on my hole punches and corner punches. I don't use clicker dies, but if I did, I'd use it on them. In addition to being a lubricant, a small bit of beeswax on the fingertips aids in keeping my grip on the sewing needles, too. I also sometimes use it on my edges, or to slick the flesh side when it's needed. I have seen it used as a finishing coat, as well, but I haven't tried that myself, yet.

Edges are my Achilles heel. Yours ain't perfect but not bad at all. Some folks spend an inordinate amount of time on edges to get them glassy smooth... only to have them fray with a little bit of use. Don't be too hard on yourself because it proclaims the handmade source of the gift. I love the design and the execution is worthy of pride. Lucky son! I grew up playing Scrabble across the table from my mother. It's how she taught us how to improve our vocabulary.

I saw that too. With a round hole punched at the apex of the dart, everything fits together nicely, possibly without wet forming. But wet forming probably wouldn't hurt.

I saw the title "How to Buckstitch" in the Tandy store today, so still available. But as already mentioned, many of those patterns are not. $$ values? Don't know, but there is great intrinsic value in learning how to do things the old way. Keep the traditions alive!

Looks real nice. Store it dry and keep it conditioned and it should last for many, many miles. Did you use saddle leather?

There is a French website for P. Paulin, which is selling shoe polishing compounds and various cleaners and oils, including 'Huile pied de boeuf cuir ' Which I believe translates roughly to Cow foot oil (my mother would be ashamed of my lack of Francais). Try what you have on some non-critical project or 3. I bet it works fine. Catalogue produit P. Paulin Cirage | Revendeur - Distributeur en ligne

glad it works for you.

I may be wrong (I have limited experience on machines), but I don't think sharpening the hook is common practice. I would think that the hook/needle interaction is more a matter of timing. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable will chime in.

Good job. Blue jeans don't need fancy. I did a similar belt build several years ago. But I found that I still wear the same old favorite belt day after day. It's broke in and stretched in all the right places.

I use 1/2 oz calf or pig for the inside pockets. As stated above, 4/5 oz for the outside needs a gentle hand for carving. Suggest carving a few practice panels to get the hang of it before building a whole wallet.

I've been thinking about making a watch strap and bingo! just the templates I need. Thank you!

A bandolier is really nothing more than a belt with pouches or bullet loops on it. Likely curved where it goes over the shoulder so that it lies flat. I should think there are patterns out there, several on Etsy, but it shouldn't be too difficult to create your own pattern. Start with paper and an idea, move on to a prototype, et voila, you're a bandolier maker. When you say "heads", do you mean the projectiles? Probably expensive in GB, but reloading bullets are available. Or if it' just for decorations, turn some on a wood or metal lathe. It's crafting time!

I saw the 45 rpm adapter at 1st, as well. The 2nd one looks like a Japanese kamon or crest.