TonyV

If you have Stohlman's book How to Make Holsters, the pattern for Hi-Point .22 on page 19, or for 9mm Luger on page 27 should work. The Ruger Mk II is very similarly shaped to both. This book also has concise instructions on how to make pistol patterns. Of course, you would need access to the pistol. Would you be able to go to the pistol club to draw the outline of the gun? Not sure how NZ's laws work. Or, the owner might draw the outline for you, avoiding breaking any hinkey laws, and gives you the basis for a simple fold-over pattern. If you know how to make a knife sheath with this method, you can make a pistol holster the same way.

Chicago screw is a simple fastener. A simple solution is in order. Chicago screws with a rubber washer is fine, if you want to buy them. In the mean time, if the only C screws you have don't include a rubber washer, simply use a small drop of rubber in the spot where the washer would fit. Give it a couple minutes to dry, and voila, you have a rubber washer, thanks to the rubber cement you likely already have on hand. C screws dont need to be real tight, either. I get good results simply holding the base with a fingertip while I tighten the screw.

There are so many different ways and means of concealed carry that vary depending on your weapon, your body type, clothing and other factors. Before you try to decide what holster to build I suggest you research those different methods and reasons. I second the motion to get training, as well. Carrying is a big decision with potential life-changing consequences. I usually carry a small 9mm IWB at the 4 o'clock position. When I tuck my shirt in, I can leave it tucked loosely around the pistol so that it won't snag or be visible. I also sometimes carry in my pocket. Texas does indeed have concealed carry without a permit for age 21 and over non-prohibited people since 2021. There is also a CCP still available. Check your local laws before making any decisions. When you're ready to carry, building your own holster is very satisfying and a matter of pride.

I second this motion. There are also a lot of Youtube vids that teach holster making from the very simple Slim Jim to extravagant carry rigs, tooled, reenforced, etc etc. Start reading and watching. When you have more questions, there are several on this forum that can help. But first, a suggestion. The basic steps, and basic tools of holster making are not a lot different than the basics of any other leather project. If you can make a simple wallet or belt, you can make a holster. A holster is not much more than a pouch, anyway. Go for it!

Nice desigh, I like it. Did you use rivets or chicago screws to attach the holster to the strap?

It's all a matter of personal preference. First, a stiff gun belt helps distribute the weight of the gun all around the hips. Lighter, more flexible belts let the gun's weight hang all in one spot. Hard to wear all day. Modern belts are often heavier, and sometimes with a plastic stiffener between the lining and outer layer. This adds complexity and expense to the build. Unless you wear a gun and reloads all day, it's probably overkill for most people. If you're looking to build an authentic belt that's only being worn on occasion, think simplicity, quality and economy. Use a good quality veg tan about 9-10oz or thicker. Some people like a liner, some don't, but a 2-3 oz veg is what I might use if I did choose to line, which I only did once. The flesh side or rough out can help the belt from slipping around, but that doesn't require a liner, just use the flesh side of your strap for that purpose. I've seen several historical gun belts and they run the gamut of thickness, lined or not. I don't bother lining belts. In a holster, preference is still in play. If you line it, be certain it is veg, not chrome. Some people use a suede liner (again, be certain it is veg, not chrome. The mineral salts can contribute to corrosion of the gun) because it helps with retention. Some prefer a smooth liner to help a faster draw, and rely on a hammer loop retainer, which I feel is more authentic. I've built a few Slim Jim holsters, all unlined, open toe, loop thong to go over the hammer.

Manufacturers often use custom made colors. You might want to blend your own color to match. That color looks more gray than blue, so I would start with gray and tint with blue to suit. The only gray dyes I've found are in water-based dyes. RIT dye, generally a fabric dye, is a water-based dye that can be used on leather, and they have the widest range of colors that I'm aware of.

Beautiful rig! Gore's oakleaf and acorn work is always top notch. The whiteness of the grips is simply because they are natural ivory. The whiteness is what made ivory grips and ivory piano keys so desirable. Yellowed ivory is old and dirty, aged and stained. If that's what you want, give them time and lots of use. Or, set these aside to save for special dress use and replace them with artificial grips that look like old ivory for range use.

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Yeah, lettering is a challenge, especially at first. Spacing, centering, whether to use decorative cuts or not, stamps or freehand... A body could use up a couple good bellies practicing. Glad you're back in action. I'd wear that belt, but my name ain't Mullins

Check out the Patterns and Templates subforum here. Lots of sharing going on. Can't find what want? Ask. Just might find what you need.

Leather makes everything better!

ON Gutenberg.org there are a few books published in the 19th and early 20th centuries dealing with leather tanning. Some get quite scientific. You will find that the principles of tanning really haven't changed all that much over the centuries, mostly the equipment and techniques have been modernised. For example, tumbling drums might have been powered by water mill, men or mules 800 years ago, powered by steam 200 years ago, electricity 100 years ago, but the tumblers are very similar, built of wood 800 years ago, now built of metal. Dyeing was, of course, done with natural dyes like walnut and other vegetable dyes, vinegaroon, perhaps some mineral dyes, or painted with the paints and tints of the time. The paints used on a shield would likely be the same paints used on the scabbard. Dyeing would have been a very expensive option to one buying leather. Don't forget that oiling a piece of leather will darken it quite well, making a dye unnecessary in many cases. Gutenberg has old books on dyeing, as well. 'Dyes and Dyeing' by Viscount Exmouth Charles Pellew has a chapter devoted to leather staining and dyeing. Mentions acid dyeing for different colors.

Dwight is spot-on there. As long as you're not planning to bone in the fine details of the gun, a similar pistol will work. I used my Taurus 709S 9mm to make a purse holster pattern for my daughter's Sig P365 .380 before she even picked it up. I had to use some plastic wrap to give my pistol a bit more bulk, about 1/16 in all around, but it fit just fine when I gave it to her. As for revolvers, this method can work, too. Several years ago, before I picked back up the leathercraft habit, I bought a Bianchi holster that was made for a S&W 3in J-frame to use for my Ruger SP101 3 inch. It was a very tight fight and took some effort to work my revolver in, but now it fits like a glove.

I don't usually use half round cutters for strap ends, but they come in handy for cutting inside and outside corners, such as you might find on holsters and other items with lots of curves. They can be a PITA to keep sharp and honed, but when they are sharp, they are easy to use and make clean cuts. They've earned a spot in my toolbox. Hole punches can't cut outside corners, but they can do inside corners and the round ends of oblong cuts. I use well-honed wood chisels to finish the oblong cuts. I think quarter round punches would work best on strap ends.