bruce johnson

Thanks Tom, I do sharpen splitter blades. I am currently in Ohio at a leather and tool auction. I will be back in the shop middle of next week

Something else that makes edging the flesh side easier is slicking your leather. I know, I'm old school. Basically for vegtan you case or at least dampen the surface then run a glass or wooden slicker over it a few times. I slicked flesh and grain side. On a cosmetic note slicking makes the bottom side appearance smoother and more pleasing. Functionally - slicking will compress the fibers, smooth the grain a bit, take some stretch out. it helps to prevent paired straps from stretching unevenly. It will also make your bottom edging feel almost like grain side edging. For chrome tan leathers like latigo, you can use something like saddles soap, BlackRock, gum trag or Tokonole on the flesh side and then slick to lay down fibers and allow some compression. Slicking will also let you use some of that leather you all are throwing or giving away. Cut the flanks out of the bellies and save the bellies. Case them and slick the snot of them. They will compress and make a nice piece for things like card cases or leather that molds easier for sheaths depending on thickness. You can work at it and slick a belly up to almost resemble shell cordovan.

I have seen that advice a couple times with no reason given to back it up. The flesh side can be a little harder to bevel sometimes because of the stringier fibers, but that shouldn't matter in what order you do it as long as your edger is sharp.

I deal in refurbished and selected new leather tools. People cut leather with a $350 round knife down to a $10 Olfa rotary cutter, $7 utility knife, or maybe the $6 HF scissors that cut pennies. The range of leather workers and their cutting tools is pretty vast. I get some leather scissors or shears in some of the old sets once in a while . Overall, I don't think they have been marketed the best as a cutting option in the last 20 years. The best thing you can do is put some out there and see how they sell. Price them at what is fair to you, not what you think the market is. In my case what I personally think rarely happens close to expectations. Many things I think won't sell fast due to price (high or low) ends up reordered the next week. Stuff that I think is a dead-on great value gets reordered in 6 months.

I think a call to Osborne to see what the hole size is will be your best bet. I decided several years ago to put new rawhide heads on several wore out mauls. What I found was that every maker had their own better (and different idea) of what the round stock should be even among the same general sizes. I gave up at that point and used them for ballast in the trash can. Dan Preston from then ShopTalk magazine did some refurbishing on mauls and made up rawhide heads. I think he had an article or two about it. I bought out his stuff twice and those mauls were not the shiniest. They ended up ballast as well.

If Barbara at Y-Knot doesn’t have 2.7 mm she or I have tools available to cut down lace to any width.

When I first got my business license I had a county inspection - some work place guy and a fire dept inspector. Not pain in the a** guys, they just wanted to know what they’d up against in a fire or industrial accident. I’m a one man shop so mostly formality probably. Really pretty cool guys. The work-place guy noticed I didn’t have a workplace safety poster in place. He said to just send him a picture when I got it and he’d sign me off. I came up with this. He said it was official enough for him and one of the best he’d seen.

I'll see if I can dig up his name, He just shows up at the show and I recognize him.

Leather trade shows - we set up as venders at Prescott Az, Sheridan WY, Pendleton OR, and new show in Las Vegas next January. We are going to miss Waco this year but on the radar for next year.

Michelle, I deal in leather tools and come across this situation more often than not. You can sell them through the market place here. Ebay is another option, some people have good luck on FaceBook marketplace too. There are also FaceBook groups dedicated to just selling leather tools. If you want to get them moved as a group and sell them, these are all viable options. Problem with all this is taking pictures, dealing with the selling process and collecting payment, then shipment. Oh yeah and figuring a price first. Pricing - There is a lot of smoke and advice from people who have never done this. I tried Craftool stamps early on with my website. There was too much time in pictures and descriptions for singles to make it worth the time. Put them in small groups by type and you get five questions about "I just want that one, not the other 4". We evolved to just selling them on a bargain table at the shows. In about the last 5 years I have all but stopped intentionally buying just Craftools for resale. Still with estate sets I end up with 500-700 Craftool stamps a year, plus the hand tools and patterns. Contrary to popular belief, older Craftools do not necessarily sell better than newer ones to most people. Maybe a single stamp or small group here and there, but overall - no. For the shows, I used to price the preletter Craftool stamps at $7 and letter prefix stamps at $5. I spent a lot of time at the shows explaining the difference to people who in the end just didn't care. They either liked the stamp or they didn't and tried to deal down on the $7 price anyway. Now all stamps are $5 each and Ms Rundi will deal them at 5 for $20. The hand tools are usually on the bottom end too - lot of $5 tools and they are still piling up here. Patterns and books depend. Some are pretty much outdated styles and projects. Some are good like the Baird books, some are fire-starters like bowling ball bag patterns. Likewise with Craft-Aids - a few good ones, more though that we bundle and hope. What do we do now? We take them to the shows and reliably the Prescott AZ show is our better one for them. We found they sell decently at Prescott, barely sell at Sheridan, do just Ok at the Pendleton show. Overall we end up and sell maybe half the stamps at best. Now Maker's Leather Supply is set up across from us at the Prescott show. They are great about having kid's project kits they give away. The kids get a free kit and then Janie Sue sends them across the way to us. They get to pick out up to 5 stamps for free. Mallets are free too if we have any. The cool thing about Prescott also is there is a guy who has a leather craft program at the VA facility. He gets whatever he asks for and more. There are a few kids whose parents take classes or are venders at the shows. I have a loosely structured informal program with free roaming kids. They help empty my candy dish, I give them a deal on a few tools for part of their pocket cash. Later on they trade up to something they like better, or sell stuff back (at a profit for them). It keeps them occupied throughout the show and learning cowboy bartering skills. My experience anyway

Agree on the planer for thickness reduction as the best option. but those places with the capacity for 2 feet wide seem to be getting fewer all the time in some areas. I have successfully resurfaced mine by hand. I did light pressure with a fairly coarse paper on a palm sander to take down the high spots. I think I started in the low 100s for grit. You want to almost float it over the surface. The paper cleans easy enough with a crepe belt cleaner every so often, no different than wood as long as it doesn't melt.. Then follow up with a couple progression of finer grits until you are satisfied. The key is keep moving with light pressure. Excess pressure or staying in one spot can melt the plastic and that gums up the paper and makes a divot. You don't have to take out the cut lines as much as just take down the high ridges next to those cut lines. A belt sander is probably going to run too fast and "hot".

The most popular weight depends on the job at hand. The right size makes the job easier and more enjoyable. Otherwise you can wear yourself out trying to hold up a heavy maul for easy stuff or wear yourself out beating a light maul repeatedly on heavy stuff. Stamping Tools - everyone needs a 1# maul. With most stamps that weight gives a good deadfall effect. For larger face stamps like 1/2 inch or more geometrics - 1.5# or 2# depending on how intricate the design is. For tiny faced or sharper stamps like seeders and bargrounders, consider stepping down to a 12 ounce maul. Hardware setting, smaller round punches, and most strap end punches - 1#. If you fall to the side of "I don't want to my punches to be really sharp" then 2# for the strap ends and rounds. I don't follow that theory but some do. Large round (2 inches and up) and Rosette punches - 2.5# or 3#. I sell 4.5# mauls for the heavy hitters on big punches. I don't mean to dissuade you from rawhide, but a few things to consider. The industrial handle rawhide mauls new are about twice the cost of a good leather handle maul ike the Wayne Jueschke mauls I sell or Barry King mauls. Rawhide can wear a little faster and can flake off onto your work. There are definite fans of rawhide and I do like them, just not as affordable new and the good used ones are few and far between.

There are a few Champions that got traded around this area for years. The old deal with Champions and American straight needles was that most shops had two. One to sew and another to scavenge parts off when they wore totally out on the main machine. The problem was that those same parts were likely worn on the scavenge machine as well. The parts availability is not necessarily what they are for the Landis, Campbell, and Randall machines. The last Champion I know of around here that sewed pretty well sold for $1200. A friend had a Champion deep throat that sort of sewed and he stored it here when he was between places. Once in a while he'd come over and we'd BS for the afternoon, get it going somewhat, and then have some Crown Royal and a steak. When we finally got through the bucket of scavenged parts and it wasn't much better, we called it some quality buddy time and scrapped it. On the stand it weighed around 600#.

That tool is for setting "bar snaps". Bar snaps are used on the edge of wide flaps like on the coin pocket in a wallet. It was a wide piece of brass with the snap stead molded in. This tool was used to crimp the bar on the edge of the flap.

If you want to go natural, one of the best wood surfaces I cut on was a 20 year old plank of clear sugar pine. occasionally resurfaced with a sander. What do I have in my shop and recommend for a cutting surface? Hint - it isn't wood. - https://brucejohnsonleather.com/links-resources/tool-talk/cutting-surfaces-knives-and-blades