bruce johnson

Thanks Camano for providing that link. I do have a few half round pinking punches availalbe right now. That page link is here - http://brucejohnsonleather.com/leather-tools-sale/leather-scalloping-and-pinking-punches-sale/ .

From this view looks like a fur machine. Cowboy Bob or Cobra Steve could probably tell you what it'll do.

Most but not all 5 in 1s can be set for level splitting but you'll wear your arm out cranking it through. The adjustments are not as precise. The CS Osborne #86 splitters see a lot of use because they are pretty available and tend to be the least expensive pull splitter. Easy to adjust, don't take up much room, and normally a solid unit.

Looks like a pointed figure beveler and just from what I can tell, probably from Robert Beard.

Another vote with OlToot. I've had one of the new Randall Keystones here that was good and wouldn't hesitate on recommending it. Blade is sharpened to better angle than the imports. I wouldn't look past a good old Osborne #84 either. An older one with a good blade is just what he said. If you are determined to buy new, look at the new Osborne #84s. I have now bought two 84 replacement blades to go on older 84s I have refurbished. I don't know what happened with Osborne but the quality decline on some of their other tools has NOT transferred over to the new #84 blades. They are bimetal blades that are really good and finished well. The only difference between new and older CSO #84 frames is they went with a smaller thread on the handle.

Really nice, Sure like the set I have from you!

That is one edit that is within my skill set here. I got them marked as sold for you.

Rons by a huge margin over Weavers. Rons will maintain the same tension raising or lowering the stand because the tension arms are on the post. You can turn Rons with tension on as well. Weavers tension from the base so you can't do either with theirs. I have had Rons for quite a while and haven't regretted one second of that time.

Books - in particular older poetry by Robert Service, Edgar Guest, Banjo Paterson, Henry Lawson, and old western poetry from the early 1900s before "cowboy poetry" was cool. Will James, Ross Santee, and books by or about Charlie Russell and Will Rogers. Tools - old leather tools, but not any one maker. I have an old knife from the 1830s that rocks my world. Use it quite a bit, and I expect the makers would be proud that I do.

Looks really good! Like the pattern and just the right amount of silver!

looks good!

Besides Weaver you can buy Jeremiah Watt tools directly from him as well at www.ranch2arena.com . Only Weaver sells the Master tools and that is their "house brand". You still may be able to buy from Weaver directly with a Danish license.

FWIW, I think the original Heritage tools were/are cast overseas and came with the deal when Weavers bought Mast a few years ago. The friendly phone folks at Weaver may not always be particularly knowledgeable about their products. Several years ago I added a maul to an order. I asked if Barry King made them because they looked just like Barry Kings. She told me they were made by a local Amish craftsman. Yeah, uh uh. Barry King stamped on the top when I got it. Same with the Heritage tools. They told me that the skivers were made in PA too. Finish wise the draw gauges can be a little rough but comparable to current Osbornes in finish or lack of. At least the bars are solid and not hollow back aluminum like the newer Osbornes. Like I wrote in the other thread you will need to work on the Osborne blades, They don't come ready to use, but come with a fourth of the price tag of blades that are. Once you get them right they do hold a pretty good edge.

If you ever get over the Altamont, I'm in Oakdale and you'd sure be welcome to stop by.

Same info as Kevin. I haven't heard of the bench skiver before. Got a picture or a link?

The Heritage are OK and would be a step up from the other two you mentioned, but then again they are about twice as much money too. They use set screws in the front instead of the traditional slotted screws on the old CS and HF Osborne Latta draw gauges that they are patterned after. The handles are a bit "clunky" with squared edges but you can reshape them some on a sander if you don't like that. Blade that come with it is an Osborne blade. It'll require some work to cut once you get it. SCRATCH ALL THAT! I was thinking about the Master draw gauge Weaver sells and not the Heritage. I have had a few of them and the Heritage are OK. Same Osborne blade in the ones I had.

Another hat-trick!

Congrats, we ought to have a certificate or something. As one who has been around from the start, Thank You!!! When this started and we hit 1000 members, we were thinking that we may be on to something. Time has proven it, due in total to each and everyone posting here..

I have a few creasers. Wood is historic, metal can be historic and functional. I have attached a couple pictures of two views of them to compare similar types - apples to apples. Timely topic because the metal and CS Osborne stick in the center both were sold and getting packed up tonight. Downside with wood is that it can chip. Once that happens, you're toast. Metal is durable and if you get a snag, it can usually be polished out. Some people lightly heat the metal creasers to get a better burnish to the crease line. I suspect they originally used chipped and broken wooden creasers for that source of heat. WIth the dedicated single size handled creasers, you can lay into them more to get a crisper line too. Metal can be reworked to get a more rounded profile, wider crease line, narrower crease line, etc.

Welcome, from a former Logansport, IN resident!

Greg, Usually the magazines have the dates for events. ShopTalk is one and Leather Crafters Journal too. Here's a page from Leather Crafters Journal website - http://www.leathercraftersjournal.com/events.html

Chuck, Some of the newer Osborne tools bear little resemblance to even their own older tools. Creasers and bisonette edgers are shining examples.

Campbell Randall has poly too.

After a few hundred I think I have cracked the code or at least have some pretty good averages. On the regular single line creasers, the size number is +/- 1/32 of an inch. ie. a #2 is 2/32" and #5 is 5/32". This applies to Gomph, CS Osborne, and HF Osborne. The next size range up for Gomph is called "round edge creasers" and for the Osborne bros - "layer creasers". These start with a #1 being +/- 6/32" and each number up from there is approximately 1/32" additional. Double line creasers pretty much follow the size for the single line creasers. The distance between the edge guide and center line is that number in 32nds of an inch. The center line to the inside line usually follows that rule pretty closely, although some maybe be a bit narrower. There is a bit of variation between some individual tools due to manufacturing or wear, but these are pretty good rules of thumb I have found.

That would be easy enough to make up from a creaser. I repurpose creasers into push beaders, bevelers, thread countersinks, etc. This fall right in there. I have several sizes of creasers and the tools to do it with.