TXAG

I was going to recommend loops, but...oh well... Maybe you could get a small piece of Kydex and mold it around some dummy rounds, then drill holes in it and hand stitch it to the case... They'd fit in there snugly and it would probably be easier than adding leather loops...

Tim George uses 2-part epoxy putty to fill in the gaps on his foundation knot...makes a nice, smooth, round base to go over...

Lacquer on the buckle is going to be your best bet... Good luck...

You could probably spray them with lacquer (a few coats), but it will wear off eventually...

Hope you like candy a lot...second machine is also to mold candy... http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/antique-crandell-godley-hand-crank-132464557

Yep...looks nice...

Well...I get irritated by high shipping too, but it's not just for packing materials...you're also paying for their time to pack it and take it to the post office, plus gas to get there, etc. My mail carrier picks up my packages when I ship though, so I don't have to deal with that, but I guess some sellers might...

Glad the videos were helpful and you were able to finish your knot. Yeah...what I do with his videos is get to the first part, then pause it and build that part...then let out play for a bit, pause again, etc. Now I've gotten to where I just write the o / u pattern in a small notebook. Don't really care about memorizing twenty (or more) different knots and interweaves right now.

I think I finally deduced from Hought's Romal Reins book that she was referring to a 7L x 6B when she says "a 6-bight turkshead". I thought calling it that was very ambiguous...in the other book, she only calls it a 6B turkshead, leaving it open to all sorts of interpretation. I got the impression she didn't really care about the ambiguity, but... Anyway, she mentioned the 7L x 6B in the Romal Reins book as being "the most common" base knot...for whatever that's worth...

Yeah, he has several, so check them all...he does some based on a 5L x 4B...some based on 7L x 6B, etc...hopefully there's one you can use. Even if you had to start a new one, if you follow his videos, it won't take long. If I can do it, I am sure you'll be fine.

Maybe...looks different, but might look that way due to flat vs. round...

I've found this guy's videos very helpful....(The Hought books -- not so much...for me, anyway)... http://www.youtube.com/user/isainakazin He never responds to comments or questions though, so...I don't know...I think they're easy enough to follow (and I hate grids too, btw)...

I have the ABOK if it's located in there or if you have a link to a tutorial, that would be much appreciated also...(sorry about pic quality...best I could do w/ a screen capture...)

You could always tie some long turkshead knots on them to make them wider and give a better grip...

Hello... I was going to comment on your machine's feet marking your leather...what I've been told is people buy spares of those feet (so you can hang onto the unmodified ones if you need them later) and then grind the teeth down so that they're smooth...or smoother anyway...to avoid leaving marks. For how to wind the bobbin and all, your machine should've come with a manual...if not, the dealer should supply you with one. In the meantime, maybe you can find it on google docs?

3/8" long enough? http://www.fasnap.co...h/45_26_30_9112 They have them in brass and brass/nickel finish also...I've ordered from them before and their snaps work great with my press-n-snap tool...

Needles are cheap...you'll need to have a few onhand if you're going to stitch by hand... I cannot think of any viable way to make a new hole in your needle there...I suppose if you really had to, you could hammer the end flat on an anvil and then make another hole, but...you should get more needles. I've broken needles before too...I've read it can happen more often if you twist/pull on it at the same time...

Yeah, a lot of the book is about packing parachutes, but there is also a lot about sewing, different classes of sewing machines, hand sewing (harnesses, etc.), military specifications as far as strengths of various materials, threads, stitches, etc...it's a good reference for those that want to make their own gear. It's nice that it's online in google, but beware -- they've been known to suddenly remove texts that were available previously without warning. (They did this on a knot reference I found before...can't even find it on there now...)

You mean these? http://www.ranch2are...nchoreview.html And these? http://www.ranch2are...m/dblbklov.html ...and before anyone tries to say those aren't them...

ROFL

Weird...it's in several libraries around me locally. It's not really a rare book...there may only be 88 libraries willing to loan it out via interlibrary loan, but they're not rare. Just about every parachute rigger in the US has (or SHOULD have) at least one volume. If you are serious about sewing and doing it to high standards (especially nylon or cotton fabrics and webbing), you ought to own the book anyway.

You're welcome...I have a lot of experience in skydiving, so have known it as a reference for a while now...it has a lot of different techniques for sewing x-boxes, strength of various webbing and thread, etc...I think it's exactly what you need...

This is too complicated to answer simply in a post here. For complete, documented, and accurate answers to your questions (there are quite a few variables in there...for one, it would depend on the type of webbing, etc.), you'd need to read the Poynter manual. (This one (http://www.amazon.com/The-Parachute-Manual-Aerodynamic-Decelerators/dp/0915516802/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1384792548&sr=8-3&keywords=poynter+manual or Volume 1, if you can find either one in a library...many libraries have one or both...) That will give you best, most accurate answers to those questions without any supposition or conjecture.