Ed in Tx

In keeping with the idea of recycling I have used cardboard boxes from cereal and other things like Cheese-Its. The cardboard is fairly heavy and is free since we ate what was in the box. Have even used Coke or other drink cartons for smaller things. If I don't have any of those handy I have bought poster board. For initial patterns I have used brown shopping bags (a relic these days).

I had a person call me today and they are in need of someone to engrave a leather portfolio they are giving as a gift. They want a gold or silver leaf inprint of their anniversary date. As usual they need it today.. actually by Friday. Anyone know of a person or company that can do something along those lines. If you do.. please PM me. Thanks Ed

Shtoink.. After reading your post I remembered that I had downloaded the Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for Feibings Deglazer and Dye Reducer. I took a look at both and what you are basically thinking about could be acheived with Deglazer. It contains both Acetone and a couple forms of alcohol. Just a thought, you can get the MSDS from Springfield Leathers website.

That is one of my Kimber's. Have a matching set from the custom shop. Also have a Kimber Compact Stainless II. Like my Kimber's but don't shoot them as often as I did with ammo being high. Somewhat less expensive to shoot my 9mm's. Having several handguns was the main reason I started doing leatherwork in the first place, I got tired of paying a ridiculous price for a holster when I bought a new gun, of course you have to have more than one holster per gun too. Need one for warm weather, cold weather, cloudy.. etc..

One thing I should have mentioned with regards to the Wyo Quick Slik.. when I talked to the folks at Sheridan about the product I asked specifically about being able to dye over the Quick Slik. They told me that as long as you were using an alcohol based dye it was no problem, if you are using an oil based dye.. it WILL NOT work over the Quick Slik. They told me the Quick Slik will work with the oil base as long as you dye it first then use the product.

I found out about a product called Wyo Quick Slik at the Boot and Saddle Makers show In Wichita Falls. The only place that sells it is Sheridan Leather, I believe it is their product. It is incredible stuff, I had been trying several other methods since I am somewhat of a novice but this stuff works great. For grins I just took a small piece of veg tan with a raw edge and put the Wyo Slik on it, it almost looked like a fully burnished edge. Obviously you still want to burnish the edges but it really works well.

I'm no expert on lining but I have been told by a person that makes really nice holsters the proper way to do a lining is to rough cut it larger than the body. I can't think of how to explain it, but if you just lay both pieces flat and glue them together you will end up with fold marks or ripples on the lining side when you bend it. The last one I did lined, I sewed one edge temporarily then glued the layers while folding the holster. I rolled a wood dowel across it to make sure it didn't have puckered places. before I did it I had put a pen mark on the liner where the edge would have been if I had glued them flat, well that mark didn't show because it was now on the inside. I am sure that makes no sense at all.. but I didn't have and wierd areas at the fold where the sight line of the slide would be. After you get things folded you cut off any excess liner. I sure hope someone else will chime in here because my explanation leaves a lot to be desired I know. I am attaching a pic of the holster,.of course you can't see the inside.. One thing I figured out real quick about making a lined holster is you need to think three steps ahead. If you are using snaps or have other add ons that you don't want on the inside of the finished holster you better take care of them before you glue down your lining.

One thing I should have mentioned, if you are planning on hand sewing you should buy some good thonging chisels (stitch punch). DO NOT waste your money on the Tandy chisels, the new ones they are selling as "pro tools" are better than the old ones but they still don't measure up to Osborne chisels. You can sharpen the Osborne's not the Tandy ones. I use a 4 prong most of the time but also have a 1, 2 and 3 prong. Sometimes they come in handy in small areas. You can buy an inexpensive skiving tool for less than $10 at Springfield. I also built a stitching pony when I started, used it a couple of times but found it was easier for me to just hold the piece I was sewing in my hands. I can see using one if you are doing a bunch of braiding or lacing but for just sewing I don't use mine. I know what you are saying about the cheap screws.. that has happened to me more times than I can count on all sorts of projects. I finally started using exterior screws for a lot of things, that works unless you need a smaller screw.

If you are interested in 1911 patterns Tandy has a pattern set of designs by Will Ghormley that are really nice. I have seen Will post here on the forum as well. Take a look at his web site, he makes some incredible gun leather of all sorts. He even has some tutorials that show step by step how he makes certain holsters. Another excellent source for "how to" information is Eric Adams, he owns Adams Leatherwork. He has a bunch of tutorials on his web site, he walks through step by step on how he makes his holsters. I started making holsters for myself and family members about 4 years ago, at first is was a lot more error than trial.. I look back at my first few attempts and realize now how bad thay were, I am not professional by any means but I have improved a great deal compared to my original efforts. You can read books all day long but for me watching someone do it is a much better way of learning. Besides that, just do it.. don't start out with leather that costs you $8 a sq. ft. buy the least expensive (within reason) leather and lay down a pattern, cut it sew it etc.. after several attempts you will begin to figure out what you are doing right and what you are doing wrong. First thing you are doing wrong is buying leather from Tandy, there are suppliers that are much less expensive than Tandy and sell MUCH better quality for less. Take a look at Springfield Leather, they are supporters of the forum and I have had nothing but excellent service from them. You will find that the tools you buy from Tandy can be purchased for less at Springfield Leather and elsewhere. BTW.. Springfield has holster patterns including the Ghormley pack. Like I said I am no expert but was like you starting out looking for information and trial and error. Just giving you a head start by letting you know some of the things I have found over time. The one big thing I have found is almost everyone I have talked to either in person or on the net that does leatherwork is VERY helpful and more than willing to give you the guidance you need. I have never asked a question of these folks and been looked down upon as being dumb.. they have always answered it even if it was. Don't expect your first few holsters to win you any prizes, mine sure won't but stick with it and over time you will be making holsters you are proud to show and own. Best of luck and I hope you enjoy doing leatherwork as much as I have. Ed

Those are all incredible.. Really like the one with the frog half panel, the contrast between the light and dark brown makes it very sharp.

Have you tried Oxalic Acid? It is also known as leather bleach, I have used it to get ink out of veg tan but haven't tried it on a Sharpie. They sell it at Springfield Leather, it is $2.48 for a small packet that will make 1 pint of solution. Don't think you can find it at local stores but who knows. Good luck. Ed

I believe I saw a pattern similar to what you are talking about in one of the Tandy pattern packs. Don't remember if it was in a printed pack or in the online library. Sorry I can't remember which one.. sure sign of old age I guess.

This may sound dumb to some of the professionals but what I have done in an instance like you are describing is use my swivel knife to make a really light cut then I follow it with the free handed groover. May sound amateur but it works for me, that is all I am concerned about. Don't know if that helps you but I tried. Ed

Bingo!! I looked that up and that is exactly what I was trying to do. Now if I can only find a pattern for it. The one I saw on the forum looked like they used a second layer on the sweat shiled and incorporated the snaps on it. That also provided a reinforcement for the top of the holster. Guess I will do some searching for a "Summer Special" pattern. Hopefully I can find one that I can use.

I have a pattern like that with "wings" What I am looking for is one where the belt loops are centered basically on the main part of the holster. I know that isn't a great description but what he is wanting is smaller than one with wings for the loops. Best way I can think of describing it would be a regular belt style holster that has a sweat shield with the loops on the face of it. If nobody has one like that I guess I can figure out something with an existing pattern and modify it.

A law enforcement friend of mine asked me to make him an IWB style holster for a Glock 22, I have a pattern I use but he wants something different. The ones I make use metal holster clips and he would prefer a leather loop and snap style.Does anyone by chance have a pattern they would be willing to share? I am not selling it to him, just making it for him because he is a friend... Never hurts to keep the LE guys on your side. Thanks, Ed in Grapevine TX.

Not trying to take business away from Bob, but I think you can get the Union Special from miami sewing. They also have the Singer as well. Try taking a look at their web site, might have to search a couple of categories but I found both a minute ago. Here is the url http://www.miamisewing.com/specials/single,doubleneedle&zigzag.htm Hope this helps.. Ed

Unless you are wanting an attachment that can swivel "Chicago Screws" are really the best for reinforcing a bond. The "T" nuts can be used for attaching a holster clip mount that will give you the ability to move it or swivel the location. I am attaching a picture of an IWB holster I make that uses "T" nuts so the mounts can be adjusted. Bottom line, if you just want to reinforce a seam use chicago screw.

Seth, I have a Consew CP206 that is very capable of sewing items like wallets. The reason I bought this particular machine is it is portable and the price was right since it was used $250! You can pick up a brand new one for around $350 at several locatiions I have seen on line. You don't have to have a dedicated area to sew in, set it up wherever you want and go to work. I am not a pro like some of the folks that post here but I can at least sew with this machine. Just my 2 cents. Ed

Josh, What do you have left of the dummy guns? I may be interested in buying what is left. Not really interested in the mags though. Thanks, Ed

I went the route of my local granite countertop fabricator and bought a sink cutout for $10. When they do the cutouts for sinks they generally cut them either square, rectangular or oval for bathroom sinks. Try a couple of different places before you spend $30. If you just want to buy one, Springfield Leather has them for $19, it is a 12 x 15 slab.