renegadelizard

Hey Jeremy, How did the bag come out?

i ended up just muscling it around....i made a last for it, but ended up not using it...its made out of horsehide with a layer of oil tan on the outside...very thick all at the seams...my cobra ate it for dinner, but i had to hand sew the corners....it was just so thick it didnt want to bend, even wet...i was gonna go with a softer gusset, but the satchel conceals a full size gun via a frame loop and retention strap, and the customer wanted it stiff...well, its stiff all right..you could stand on it....the small size is what gave me fits, 9X7X2.5 inches high...that doesnt leave alot of room...in the end, im happy with the result...but now i know why these satchels and leather attorneys cases are so expensive....the amount of work that goes into them is staggering...even the simple ones...i used 13 dollars in contact cement alone...ive been high as a kite for 2 days...lol...ill get some pics up of it in the next couple of days....

Hey Neighbor, are you using resolene or something similar?...im guessing you called springfield on the shark...i go to their website almost everyday waiting for it to pop up on there...

very nice..it that a basketweave stamp or a fish scale type stamp....i like it...

Hey All...how do i wet form the gusset?...

got it all set up...no helper so i had to screw up the courage and tackle it myself...you guys are right, its heavy ...really heavy...but i got it all working..its amazing...what used to take me an hour and a half to sew took a little over twelve minutes....this thing is awesome...

The tannery they get their leather form just isnt as good as herman oak or wickett and craig...and really, look at it this way...tandy isnt exactly a mega store, but its coming close...just like say walmart...and while i have a closet full of wal mart clothes, i know they are going to shrink, fade, and fail rather quickly...thats why when i want a good suit of clothes, i go somewhere that sells good quality clothes...usually i pay more, but i get more...Springfiedl leather on the other hand, is a single store dedicated to providing its customers quality goods, often at better prices than megastores...and their customer service is the best in any industry i have ever seen...give them a call and chat with them for a while...they are great..they get you set up with what you need, and offer any insight they might have if you have any spefic questions or hurdles...they know their trade and they are generous with their knowledge...

The tandy leather sure isnt helping you...go to springfield leather and order a single shoulder of herman oak and get it in 7-8 or 8-9 (i prefer 8-9)....6-7 is too light for a holster in my opinion, unless it is lined...keep at it...as i am continuing to learn, tis isnt something that you will master overnight...ive learned so much on here and translating all of this knowledge to my hands is time consuming...and addictive...but it will come... don

It looks to me like a regular vertical opening on the back of the holster...just a flap folded over and pushed through a loop on the skirt...ala single loop holster...the belt looks like it is cut to accomodate the cant...look close at the far right picture at the back of the holster and you will see the belt stitch line angle downward...pretty cool design...

Mikes awl is what, 30 years old?...and still going strong....i got one from springfield..its a hair wider than Mikes but does an okay job....sharpening this little blades is still a mystery to me...i changed the angles on mine somehow, but it is still serviceable....im like Mike, i punch a butt load of holes, then stitch...i lay my piece down flat on 4 layers of cork board and punch away, this helps keep the holes vertical...after i punch the holes, sometimes ill groove the back...depending on the type of holster...for pouch type holsters that i premark the holes on both sides for (when there isnt enough leather to glue effectively) ill stitch groove the inside of the leather...this helps with not snagging the needle so much while trying to hold the holster closed and sewing at the same time...good luck and keep at it..your looking good...watch particles videos...and heed mikes advice..they both make incredibly fine holsters... don

Hey all, My cobra class 4 is due in tomorrow....any tips or tricks to make it easier to get up and running?...

First question Brent, what leather are you using...wieght also...this will help us narrow down the retention issue... Second, yep, too wet when molding...if you get it soaking wet, you have to let it dry out before molding... i dont clean mine but many do..alot use a de-glazer....sometimes i will lghtly wet it before spraying with dye when you first put the dye on, it will look alot darker than when it is dry...if going for specific shade, wait until it dries a bit between coats...

LCP in blue....i know..different......and a few more recents

too funny...i just got through building one of these 30 minutes ago...ill get some pics up later...

How easy is it reholster? Any issues manipulating a snap that close to the trigger?.. with a 1911 i can see it not being an issue, but how about some of the stricker fired DAO's ? It looks cool and i can see how alot of folks would like the extra retention aspect... Don

show me the innards of it...im not getting it...

I use denim. Old cut off blue jean legs mostly. You can use heavy canvas as well or even the old Shoeshine brush. Now, looking at your pic and Seeing a hybrid, I think I were going To due one of those, you might consider only dying the front side, as the flesh side might Be pretty hard to buff. Also, I picked up a strip of horse the other day that I dyed a few months back and forgot about. It was fairly stiff. Just something else you might Want to consider.

I use denim. Old cut off blue jean legs mostly. You can use heavy canvas as well or even the old Shoeshine brush. Now, looking at your pic and Seeing a hybrid, I think I were going To due one of those, you might consider only dying the front side, as the flesh side might Be pretty hard to buff. Also, I picked up a strip of horse the other day that I dyed a few months back and forgot about. It was fairly stiff. Just something else you might Want to consider.

Nevermind...I talked with slc..pictures speak a thousand words and sometimes they just dont do justice....SLC customer service wins again...

I must have got the soft action snaps...i think im going to try to stop using snap altogether...if i can get by with chicago screws and/or post, then i think ill go that direction..if a customer absolutely has to have snaps, ill go with the pull the dot...thanks for the input...

Hey all...Im looking for some buckles for a gun belt run im getting ready to start..im having trouble finding a good looking roller buckle though...slc has a few but they are utilitarian and not exactly polished..anY suggestions?

Ive googled everywhere trying to come up with measurements for the bodyguard mag...no luck...

its seating all the way...the problem is that the male ends only have a very slight lip on them...just a very slight bulge...

Im using the little anvil and the setter...it this one ...

if it gets milky, you are putting it on too heavy...try the mop and glow route...it works great...keep a paper towel soaked in the mop and glow mix with you when you do it...if you overspray, simply wipe with the paper towel...dries fairly quick and it smells good too..lol