renegadelizard

The tandy leather sure isnt helping you...go to springfield leather and order a single shoulder of herman oak and get it in 7-8 or 8-9 (i prefer 8-9)....6-7 is too light for a holster in my opinion, unless it is lined...keep at it...as i am continuing to learn, tis isnt something that you will master overnight...ive learned so much on here and translating all of this knowledge to my hands is time consuming...and addictive...but it will come... don

It looks to me like a regular vertical opening on the back of the holster...just a flap folded over and pushed through a loop on the skirt...ala single loop holster...the belt looks like it is cut to accomodate the cant...look close at the far right picture at the back of the holster and you will see the belt stitch line angle downward...pretty cool design...

Mikes awl is what, 30 years old?...and still going strong....i got one from springfield..its a hair wider than Mikes but does an okay job....sharpening this little blades is still a mystery to me...i changed the angles on mine somehow, but it is still serviceable....im like Mike, i punch a butt load of holes, then stitch...i lay my piece down flat on 4 layers of cork board and punch away, this helps keep the holes vertical...after i punch the holes, sometimes ill groove the back...depending on the type of holster...for pouch type holsters that i premark the holes on both sides for (when there isnt enough leather to glue effectively) ill stitch groove the inside of the leather...this helps with not snagging the needle so much while trying to hold the holster closed and sewing at the same time...good luck and keep at it..your looking good...watch particles videos...and heed mikes advice..they both make incredibly fine holsters... don

Hey all, My cobra class 4 is due in tomorrow....any tips or tricks to make it easier to get up and running?...

First question Brent, what leather are you using...wieght also...this will help us narrow down the retention issue... Second, yep, too wet when molding...if you get it soaking wet, you have to let it dry out before molding... i dont clean mine but many do..alot use a de-glazer....sometimes i will lghtly wet it before spraying with dye when you first put the dye on, it will look alot darker than when it is dry...if going for specific shade, wait until it dries a bit between coats...

LCP in blue....i know..different......and a few more recents

too funny...i just got through building one of these 30 minutes ago...ill get some pics up later...

How easy is it reholster? Any issues manipulating a snap that close to the trigger?.. with a 1911 i can see it not being an issue, but how about some of the stricker fired DAO's ? It looks cool and i can see how alot of folks would like the extra retention aspect... Don

show me the innards of it...im not getting it...

I use denim. Old cut off blue jean legs mostly. You can use heavy canvas as well or even the old Shoeshine brush. Now, looking at your pic and Seeing a hybrid, I think I were going To due one of those, you might consider only dying the front side, as the flesh side might Be pretty hard to buff. Also, I picked up a strip of horse the other day that I dyed a few months back and forgot about. It was fairly stiff. Just something else you might Want to consider.

I use denim. Old cut off blue jean legs mostly. You can use heavy canvas as well or even the old Shoeshine brush. Now, looking at your pic and Seeing a hybrid, I think I were going To due one of those, you might consider only dying the front side, as the flesh side might Be pretty hard to buff. Also, I picked up a strip of horse the other day that I dyed a few months back and forgot about. It was fairly stiff. Just something else you might Want to consider.

Nevermind...I talked with slc..pictures speak a thousand words and sometimes they just dont do justice....SLC customer service wins again...

I must have got the soft action snaps...i think im going to try to stop using snap altogether...if i can get by with chicago screws and/or post, then i think ill go that direction..if a customer absolutely has to have snaps, ill go with the pull the dot...thanks for the input...

Hey all...Im looking for some buckles for a gun belt run im getting ready to start..im having trouble finding a good looking roller buckle though...slc has a few but they are utilitarian and not exactly polished..anY suggestions?

Ive googled everywhere trying to come up with measurements for the bodyguard mag...no luck...

its seating all the way...the problem is that the male ends only have a very slight lip on them...just a very slight bulge...

Im using the little anvil and the setter...it this one ...

if it gets milky, you are putting it on too heavy...try the mop and glow route...it works great...keep a paper towel soaked in the mop and glow mix with you when you do it...if you overspray, simply wipe with the paper towel...dries fairly quick and it smells good too..lol

This was my first overlay attempt...elephant is a beast to edge..actually, it doesnt edge at all...just sort flaps and twists on the buffing wheel...im working on inlays with it now...much easier to work with like that...

So i spent all afternoon working on my inlay technique...trying to get the pillowed/embossed effect right....i got there, but i think i cut my pillow pieces a bit to small as the embossing wasnt quite as dramatic as i wanted...its okay though...i did all of this on a bracelet, thinking that it was scrap leather to begin with, and if it worked out okay, my little girl would love it...well, after it was all finished up and i tried to snap it closed, it snapped together and them right back open...i switched snaps...same thing happened....i tried playing with the bigger snaps, and they popped right open too..im madly in hate right now with line 20/24 snaps....is this normal or is there a trick to setting these and making them actually work?...are there better alternatives besides the incredibly expensive pull the dot snaps?

Well that would explain a lot, the leather you used...here is one of the tools I use quite a bit.. http://springfieldleather.com/24832/Modeler%2COsborne%2C%23471/ This and the bone folder and my fingers are about the only tools I use...pancake holsters are my favorite...especially pancake holsters for the lcp....they are like real holsters only smaller..lol ...I wear one everyday... Keep us posted on the progress, can't wait to pics of the next one...you can tell when a person has skill, and you got it....your holsters are just gonna keep getting better and better

Hey Dwight, Is there any chance we can see a picture of that thing?

Come on Eric, we all know it is better to do two or four things absolutely perfect than it is to do 15 things okay...your technique is spot on, and you have helped countless millions..(well, okay, maybe a couple hundred), in getting their technique going in the right direction...i have no doubt that if you decided to start making concealed flip flop holsters for the angry mothers of the world, or leather top hats that unfolded into little leather fairies holding vases of flowers, that it wouldnt take you too long to master it...but i wanna get the video first when you do the flip flop holsters... don

Nice looking rig Bobby...a lot better than my first...the one thing that stands out to me though, and im just nit picking here...is the boning...the stuff you intended to do looks great...the places where your tools slipped though...it kind of detracts from the overall beauty...i think we all do it sometimes, i know i do..but im quick to rub it out as best i can as soon as it happens...after you dunk your holster and before molding, clip your nails real short and wash the crap out of your hands..lie surgical clean...this will let the leather dry out a bit and get your hands ready to work it...clean your tools too...make sure your not gonna put some dye rub off from the last job on the new one...keep cranking away..your looking really good...

Im really digging the circle in the trigger guard...very unique look and functional i bet...