renegadelizard

"turkey hiney"?....havent heard that one before... for the nose, i dont think there is any comfortable way to keep that bit warm..ski mask maybe?...or a toasty toe warmers, the ones with the adhesive backs...just peel and stick it on your face...easy peasy...lol...

+1 on springfield...they will even send you latigo strips if you want..i just order 84 inch long 1 inch wide strips for a bridle that I was doing...cut was nice and straight...

i dont use thinner...just brush it on straight out of the can...and as for adhesion..if i glue something wrong...its stays wrong unless i cut it out...

+1 on the weldwood...great adhesion, even on oil tanned and latigo

My shop is inside, so most of the time, and this is a scary visual, im sitting around in my skivies or gym shorts...nothing to ruin then with the occasional dye splatter, and leather dust from sanding washes off pretty easy...if you have to work outside, concentrate on keeping your feet and head warm...i could work outside in short as long as my feet and bald head were warm...I would seriously consider smoking in the garage and moving the leather shop back inside...

you can also apply gum trag on the inside with a small brush or your finger...rub it in real good..

I put them on almost all of my holsters, but much smaller. I call them love bumpers.

Wow....thats a metric sh*t ton of leather in those...those need to come with a sign, "only 4 cows were killed in the making of this holster"....

i would think 2 1 inch steel plates welded to the frame and ram, along with some gum rubber, and you would be set...gum rubber is around 50-60 bucks i think, and the steel, im not really sure...

yeah, screw line 24 snaps...i dont like them either... sorry...i cant believe i was the first.... +1 on mcmaster carr...they have everything you could possible need..it may take a while to figure what you need is called, but they will have it...

Hey Dan, you wouldnt happen to have a pattern for this would you? Im looking at building something similar to this for a Ruger 77 with an enormous scope, and I really like the way you relieved the bolt handle.

Thanks Shooter, that is the exact answer I needed...lcp mags I do have... Thanks for sharing Ray, good info to have.

anyone have the measurements for the 238 mags?

i used weldwood contact cement, you might have to coat the oil tanned piece twice, but i got it to work for a bag i did as well as a lining on a guitar strap..

+1 for weldwood contact cement...i used it for glueing up seatbelts before sewing...

Too Funny!..ive been usung my round knife for about 6 months now and just figured this out last week...im using the osbourne and after reshaping the ends a little, it cuts great....i strop every other session or so, or when i feel the knofe start to drag a little, but it seems to hold an edge just fine...

Hey Rooster, where are you at in KY?..if you are in the northern part Ive got a glock mag...im sure we could figure something out..if i can manage to get some of my work cleared out, i'll try to get a pattern for you...

looking good George...the only thing i might change, if i were making it for me personally, would be to relocate the 1911 to the back side....and +1 what Particle said...good edges are hard to come by these days...

Hey Dan, ill start with just 20...paypal sent.. Thanks Don

Hey Shooter, i know its a long shot, but do you have any of these left? If not, is there another supplier besides weaver?

i found some doulde cap rivets at hobby lobby here..just set them with the flat side of the anvil instead of the cupped side...slc sells them as well...

I have found that alot of seconds can be firsts with a bit more work...i made a matching set of western rigs and for some reason..lol..the dye didnt take well along the edge...it could have had something to do with the sloppy gum trag job i did, but i digress...they looked like crap...i was about to toss them when i thought, hey, vinegaroon works all the way through...i called the customer and told him the project was coming along well but i was just struck with a really cool idea, and if he didnt mind, i would like to upgrade his set, at no extra charge...he was very pleased...i grooned and did a border stitch all the way around...he is one of my best customers now...i just did another matched set for him...last night, i looked at a holster i am making for a young man who just got his first pistol, and who also works in one of our larger gun shops in the area...the more i looked at the holster, the more i hated the blotchy look of the stitch lines on the reinforcement piece....having never torn down and rebuilt a holster before, i was a little timid...but after maybe an hour of extra work redesigning the piece, and another 30 minutes reassembling everything, i am now happy with it, and i can sell it for full price without any reservations...some seconds are beyond help, those i nail above my bench to remind me not to do it again...and that is often worth more to me than the money froma second..

Hey all...i have a few questions for you guys and gals...saddlebags, i plan on making the bags out of 9-10 oz skirting...what weight do i use for the gussets?...also, i have heard someone mention accordion gussets...what are these..anyone have a pic of an accordion gusset? Thanks for any help you can give me.. Don

i dont rely on it, its a by product of it...when the belt is on, the holster collapses putting pressure on the gun..most of the folks i make holsters for wear IWB, and we have all been on the job long enough to know that when you wear IWB, you buy your pants 2 inches larger than your usual size...

think retention guys....i molded, tight molded holster has alot of retention in it....now, cinch a belt down on top of that and see how well you can draw it...i have had to chuck holsters because there was no way to draw them with the belt applied...my iwb's are very lightly molded now because the retention is heavily affected by the belt..