sherlockian100

I'm guessing they're Dk Co Co Brown Eco Flo/ But thats just a guess based on having used it.

I got into leatherwork by way of being into Buschcraft skills. So for me a lot of what I do, is about doing it the way my Great Grandfather would have done it. "Traditional ways of doing things." And I think leatherwork lends to that. Sure there are tools that make doing certain things easier or even just possible, but for the most part, a lot is still done the same way and for me, thats what I like.

I live in Claifornia and can't easily get Pro Oil Dye. My question is, is it worth a drive to Las Vegas to get Oil dye. vs. Using the spirit and Eco Flo dyes I can get readily in Cali. When doing straight solid dyeing or using an air brush, would it be worth driving out to get some, is the quality that much better? Would it be noticably different. I've never tried it, so I'm not sure. I've had one or two people tell me it's better, but better is relative. Would it be that much better? Thanks in advance for your input?

I use that same effect on Wallets, I believe it's the F896 Figure beveller, leaned back to just use the rounded area. Love the note book, tooling is clean and the lacing looks really good. My only critique, is that I would have created more contrast by using a darker lace, but thats a matter of opinion.

Also, if you can take off a small piece, veg tanned leather will instantly shrivel up when dropped in boiling water chromed tanned will not. Don't know if that helps.

I use Super Sheen a lot with no problems. But, I apply it three times and let it dry between each new coat, and apply generously. Again, it resists to natural color for me with stain and antiques. But thats just my experience. It is the acryliqe that is what resists, which is why satin sheen doesn't resist as much, less acrylique.

WC bevells after laying in the boarder stamp, not before!

When I first started, I had the same problem with my bevelling. I was able to fix it by learning to tap my mallet faster, and "walk" the tool slower. It worked for me. Not sure if that is why for you, but thought I'd throw that out there.

Thanks again! I got it looking decent.

Thanks Gary, I'll play with it.

Thanks, ya I see how the stitch is done, I'm more curious about the hole. If it's a hole from a diamond awl, or a long hole. When I tried it with my diamond awl, the thread didn't really sit next to itself (if that makes sense) like in the pick. It tried to occupy the same space as the first time the stitch went thru it, causing it to sit on top of itself, thats why I was wandering if it's maybe a long hole, thats diagonal. Hope my descripton makes sense.

I saw this stitch, done by another member on this forum (can't remember who) and I really like this stitch. I understand how the stitch is run, but when I tried it by punching stitch holes with a diamond awl, it didn't look right, as the thread ran almost on top of, instead of beside like in this pick. My my question is, can anyone tell me what kind of hole was punched to get this look? I'm thinking maybe a diagonal slit (like a striaght line diagional lacing slit) but I'm not sure. Any input would be much appreciated. 100424085743_bull_rider_cell_phone_case by sherlockian100, on Flickr

I see a lot of requests for patterns on here, but not a lot of patterns being shared. So, I thought I would share one. This is a fun little project that isn't too difficult. I don't think this pattern is copyrighted. I saw them at various place on the internet and worked out the pattern for making them. It needs to be adjusted a little as you make it, as no two mesure out exactly correct. The trick is shaping it into an approximately exact "triangle", as opposed to a "cone" because if its shaped more like a cone, then the back side will be a sideways cone and won't look right, I've posted the finished look and the pattern I have. It can be adjusted for different sizes, the pattern just shows basically how it needs to be shaped. coin purse 1 by sherlockian100, on Flickr Untitled by sherlockian100, on Flickr

Hopefully, soon I will start designing my own purses, but I'mstill learning how to construct them. So, I can come up with my own designs. I am however struggling with applying STAIN evenly, without having blotchy spots. I posted a thread under dyes, asking for help. If anyone can offer how they apply stain stain, to get even results, I would appreciate it so much. I am taking lessons, but have not gotten to coloring yet. Untitled by sherlockian100, on Flickr Untitled by sherlockian100, on Flickr Untitled by sherlockian100, on Flickr Untitled by sherlockian100, on Flickr

I'm not positive where I saw it on here, but someone contributed a pattern in a thread on here (probably in the patterns section). I have a good pattern for pockets and what not, but I got this "Roper" kit sooo cheap, I bought it, but didn't really like it the way it was, so I changed it up a bit, turning it into a biker type wallet. Thank you for the comment about the artwork. I originally did that for a bicycle seat I made for a friend, ) only stained one color, and thought it might look good on the wallet, with various colors.

Thank you for that, I don't have any issues with dye, it's stain thats giving me a hard time. Any suggestions there Aaron? Looks great btw.

I have a question, I searched the answer for, but could not find it. When staining a large surface, sat an 8"x12" piece of veg tan, how do you go about keeping the stain even throughout the piece. Here is the trouble I'm having. I'm using Pro Water Stain and I also tried Eco Flo stain, same type of results with both. I apply the stain on one side, by the time I'm applying to the other side, the first side is taking and I end up with darker and lighter areas. How should stain be applied properly, to achieve uniformity/even staining throughout piece. What should I be applying it with, wet or dry, etc. Please help, My otherwisw nice projects, leave a lot to be desired with staining. And I don't like the look of dye over tooled pieces. Thank you soo much in advance.

Looks really good. I like your edges a lot too.

I did it all with small brushes, I first resisted skull w/ super sheen, then painted on dye, only in its area, then same with stains. I think it was eco flo hi lite stain and feibings black dye (alcohol based I think). I'm in California, its tough to get pro oil dyes, without going out of state.

This is the second of these bags I have done. I did this one from scratch (no kit) so the leather was a little thicker than the first one I did and the did affect a few things. But, I also got to choose better hardware for this one. I am pretty happy with the tooling and the purse in general, I am not happy with my dyeing job, however, I am still learning that process. I added some stitching to the shoulder strap, to match the side straps, I also tried out two toned double loop lacing for the first time. I didn't have any dark brown 1/8 in lace, but I had fleash color, do I dyed it with some dark brown dye (what a pain) so thats why it may look a little off in a few places. I started in leather craft back about 5 or 6 months ago and have been taking lesson with WC and Standing Bears Trading Post. He has taught me so much, and I'm able to finally do a few projects and actually try to utilize some of the things he has been traching me. I am starting another (different) purse this week. Please feel free to comment or offer suggestions to help me improve my next one...Thanks! Here is my efforts. p1 by sherlockian100, on Flickr p2 by sherlockian100, on Flickr

I bought the "Roper Wallet" from Tandy, as it was missing the thread and needle, therefore on sale for just a few dollars. I didn't want to just do "the kit" with it, so I tried to turn it into a biker style wallet, by adding a closure strap, using a cconcho as a rivet (so it's removable) and a snap on the front of that. I also added a belt chain to that strap. I used black dye, then high lite stain painted on with a small brush, for the red and green. Here are my efforts. Please feel free to comment or offer suggestions for next time, on how I can improve it. biker1 by sherlockian100, on Flickr biker3 by sherlockian100, on Flickr biker2 by sherlockian100, on Flickr

Looks great.. Nice clean toolin and great dye job!

Beautiful!

Just an F.Y.I, I was browsing the Tandy Web Site and noticed that they increased the price of their stamping tools from $7.99 to $9.99 and their 2D/3D stamps from $3.99 to $4.99.

Geometric stamping scares the heck out of me. One missed stamp and the project is destroyed. It's a confidence thing for me.