oltoot

Can't tell much from pic. Better broadside would be more helpful. Some repairs show in this pic. Less repairs = greater value to collectors

Without discussing the relative merits of the various approaches, here is how I have come to install ground seats over many years of trial and error. This is not anywhere near the way that I was taught by CH Werner in the 1960's, yes that's over 50 years ago. Among the many changes that I have made over the years is moving from dextrin to other kinds of adhesives and to the little skife tools in place of spokeshaves. Replacing razor blades is much easier for me than sharpening blades but overall I am happier with the results that I get. I have tested these seats in my own personal saddles over the years. See next post for details and photos.

2 cents worth: I want to register a vote against any kind of ring shanked nails. Reason being, they wreak havoc on the wood when they are removed. My mentor taught me to think about that in the basic design of things, He said that when I got it right, a basic saddle should outlive me and to always think about the guy who would be repairing the thing cause it might even be me. Along that line I have, in the last several years, begun to employ drywall screws (#6) in a lieu of tacks in many places. They are tenacious and non-destructive when removed, plus they are easy to employ with a battery powered drill/driver. I haven't stopped using tacks and various sizes of cement coated nails where appropriate but the drywall screws have replaced a lot of them. Oh yeah, #12 wood screws are still the right stuff for some final assembly steps.

As for the skulls, to each his own I say but the potty mouth is pointless trash made permanent by the leather tools employed in the place of spray cans.

I don't know if this will help but you don't tie the knot directly to the bosal, you first tie it loosely then partially disassemble it and then reassemble it around the bosal.

In my many years of experience, I have found that it is impossible to hand stitch flat work, skirt linings, etc as good as a well adjusted, properly sized needle and awl stitcher can do. Conversely, modifying construction approaches in order to machine sew things that should be handsewn is a quality compromise that is sad if not shameful.

Just FYI for UL users, I ground the closed toe off of the foot so that I could see the stitch line and like it much better, also rounded all the sharp edges on top to prevent thread damage when removing work.

Using different shades is easier than trying dilution IMHO

I have gotten my trees from Sonny for 40+ years, now as he has been known by various names over the years all over the country before settling on Quality Mfg. and Monticello, Utah over 20 years ago. His work has always been top notch. His wife, Helen, and the wife of his foreman, Lester Begay have been responsible for the rawhide. For many years now the trees have been so pretty that I almost hated to cover them up. He is also meticulous about the horse side of his trees being a life long owner of the wonderful beasts. He has done much destruction stress testing to fine tune designs. I have never had a reason to try anybody else. I know that there are other top notch makers out there but I'm more than happy with Quality Manufacturing. And I have received no compensation or other consideration for this endorsement, I promise.

Interesting! When I was just a kid, I worked for CH Werner in Alpine, Texas who worked with Bill Jordan to develop his holster design. Bill visited the shop some on his visits to the area. He was quiet and his eyes were piercing. He had already written his book "No Second Place Winners" by then and was becoming something of a legend. I saw him hold a ping pong ball on the back of his hand, make his draw and get the gun and his hand out of the way in time for the ball to land in his empty holster. WOW!

I note than no one has said anything about the many curved needle shoe machines that can be had for not a lot. True they will not handle an entire project, hand sewing will have to be employed for the ends, buckles, etc but for the long, straight, close edges they will excel with just a little practice. They would not be an only, multi tasker but would fill a void in a varied operation; but, I have a foot for my Union Lock (needle feed harness stitcher) which sews a pretty close edge. And it will handle most entire applications with just a little planning

My vote goes to Quality Mfg in Monticello, Utah. Sonny Felkins has been at it since the 70's and he takes great pride in his work.

One way would be to browse the fonts in your word processor and when you see something you like, enlarge it to the size you want, print em out and trace onto film. The other is monogram and embroidery sites would probably be the most helpful

I would question the desirability of doing this repair, just trimming any loose, dangling material; but if you must, the skirts need to be removed which varies according to the type of rigging, etc. Then you can glue a new cover on and replace the skirts. While you're at it replace the strings and maybe wash and oil everything.

You don't have to buy a knife just to get a blade, all the leading makers sell blades, most list thick and thin

If at all possible don't get just enough. A little more than you think you need will save you from being stuck where you are and not able to push on a little. And new will be worth it in terms of avoiding someone else's wear and tear.

IT WAS 1917 MULE PACKER.

My vote for girls or young ladies is for a wade, weatherly, or 3B type with buck rolls. Buck rolls can be placed in several positions, even moved a little with time to accommodate growth; plus the result can be quite a bit lighter than a swell fork. Another alternative, if you are using trees from Quality Manufacturing would be to ask for Chuck Reed's Sweetwater. It is a Sid Special thinned down or a Little Wonder beefed up a little and the gullet is configured to give a handhole that will accommodate a gloved hand.

I know that these are not adjustable but I had a couple of large (6-7 inches) sizes that I needed to cut repeatededly so I rummaged around til I found pieces of steel pipe the right sizes and took them to a machine shop and had them ground and heat treated into clicker dies and I use them in a press. for smaller sizes in lighter stuff, I use the hole saw method, leaving the drill bit out to cut a rounder and in to cut a hole. necessity was the mother of invention, crude though it might be

What he said. Replacement horns are available from tree makers with the hard part of the rawhide work already done but unless the new horn can use the holes already in the fork from the old one, the resulting work could weaken the finished effort considerably. The saddle needs to be special to warrant the effort.

Personally, 1 lb for most work, 3 lb for shading and geometrics and 8 lb for die cutting and punching

Well done, FYI, I build all my saddles with SL's set back one inch to promote straighter leg balance (get trees made special), unless directed otherwise. I generally don't even mention it as I am convinced that most folks will feel good in that configuration. I also configure my ground seats and riggings for easy forward movement but making rearward movement nearly impossible. In my experience, feet behind center balance usually meant chin down and wreck on the way.

Depending on availability, the trailer mat or the mats used for floors in horse stalls, rubber belting on conveyor belts for sand, gravel in concrete or highway aggregate plants. If you bring a big chunk of any of those home you will soon find other uses for the excess. As for smoothing up, go to a grave monument or countertop shop to see how they do it

Gullet measurements on the Visalia? Second all the compliments for your work.

none of the above, My idea, mark aroud the template with a marking awl then you can move the piece around for best light, angle etc and cut with a round knife, my go to for just about everything