oltoot

look good, would add magnets for nails

Double ring (or square) is best and provides versatile strap

Originally, machinist's but now quite versatile

As an only machine, probably not, as part of a collection, definitely, Value question already addressed

You will find that mallet/maul weight matched to tool has a lot to do with it. Being able to pick a 'whacker' that is just right and needs only gravity and guidance will help a lot (over the years, I have accumulated~ 20 different weights from 6 oz to 3 lbs and use them all in a large, complex pattern) I find that with practice (years) I can control the force delivered more exactly and switch less often.

This is an old thread but just remember that, so far, there is no bureau of standards for this stuff so you can only count on personal experience with a treemaker. You (I mean they) can call them anything they decide to. It will be helpful in understanding the dynamics to get individual bars (not trees) and set them on horses to really see things like angle, rocker, flare, etc. That will also help you see the value of and places for rounded edges. Progress with pads has made it easier. Get several pads to extend the useful range of a saddle but remember that the best and most stable result comes from the least amount of pad necessary to make a good even match for weight bearing (horse) and weight distributing (Saddle) surfaces

It helps a lot with bargrounding to have assorted weights of mallets/mauls so that you can match strike weight to tool size and desired depth

Counter clockwise whorl is native American, clockwize is Nazi and no no

Felt linings were common in late WWII yrs due to sheepskin shortage. Other features look like that, too

I've had one for 45+ yrs and haven't figured it out

In a short period of time, I added a 2/1 speed reducer and separate motor for the bobbin winder so my current love for the ULS is this modified pkg.

Go ULS!

After cleaning surface, see if you can rehydrate by wrapping, covering w/ wet to be kept wet towels and rags. Will take more than a little while. If successful rehydrated will soak up oils.

IMHO if a Union Lock is properly adjusted and set up for the work, it makes prettier work, front and back than can be reasonably hand stitched. The 441s took over because they are much easier to mfg and learn to use and better for fabric than N&A

Starting off, BSS already said everything well. To minimize size of inventory, I made (and still Would) belts out of split (leveled) HO Skirting a lot. End color is then totally, though not always easily within your control

Reminds me of a story: when I was learning the trade (60's in Texas) my teacher told me that if the order was for a padded seat, to first do the seat (ground seat) as if it were not to be padded, then pad that. IOW let there be no complaints if pad was cut or got torn out and a lumpy or otherwise not so good seat revealed.

Hybrid, I built a drawdown to more nearly approximate the horse's back down to the bottom line for most skirts

I made a stand just for it. A 20" split rim truck wheel for a base, 10" steel well casing for a stand, a 24" piece of structural steel for a table top with a 1" square tubing and 3/4 " plywood 3' x 4' table top work surface. Served me well for over 40 years

If it weren't in a box under some boxes I would give you the exact title but there is a book for that, I am sure. Keep looking and Googling

I always put the neck (heavy) end next to the bit and let the taper go towards the tailing end sometimes with an extra ply on the end in the form of a popper

If they are chrome tanned (most likely) they will soak up alcohol based dyes at very different and unpredictable rates!

I second the endorsement of plugs to result in smooth, hump free surface for stirrup leathers to rub on plus add a 22 ga sheetmetal around dees and between skirt and top piece (enfolding plug) with 2 # 8 rivits for extra strength. I always preferred 3 1/2 stainless dees for any front rig. Domed rivit heads look nice but wear off soon and leave a weakened groove on whatever moves over them

Rawhide mauls and mallets?

Or a place that does gravestones and get a reject (usually just a color thing) flat grave marker blank

Yes, although it hasn't snowed yet at this elevation, it may soon and make the whole thing more complicated so!