SooperJake

Nice work...and now I want some of that dark brown dye, too!

Yes. Both sides.

I am wondering if there is a way to lower or prevent excessive wrinkling on the compression side of a pancake holster around the belt slots. This holster is 7oz dyed with pro oil Fiebing's black. Glued and sewn flat, then molded. I conditioned it ( Bick 4) after molding and drying, then put some tan kote on for a quick finish. If gluing it on a curve would reduce the wrinkles, would I then want to use the elevated holster-type foot on the Cowboy to stitch? Right now I have the standard plate and the table attached, but the table is higher than the foot by a little. The table cannot be mounted any lower without modification, as it is bottomed out on the casting of the arm. Holster picture tells all.

Dwight, can you further explain this part? If I read you right, you have not sewn on the trigger guard side?

Shorten the extra leather at the muzzle will help. You have too much there. Otherwise sew it shut for a closed-toe. What dye did you use? Some dyes are notorious for thread transfer. I've had the best luck , so far, using the Eco Flo Pro waterstain, preconditioned with Bick 4. . Someone else may give you their take. If you are using Fiebing USMC, you'd have better luck spinning the sun on your finger like a basketball. I just bought some Fiebing's Pro Oil Black to try it, but I haven't stitched through it yet. Preliminary edge dye testing did not rub off on my jeans after I buffed it vigorously with a cotton rag.

Nice work George!

When I used it i didn't put anything on it after. I stopped using it because I didn't want my stuff smelling like lemons, and I like Angelus clears better. I apply with an airbrush, and the Angelus is cut 50% with distilled water. Never tried dipping wwith mop& glo.

Also, what is the leather weight, and are you lining these? Thanks.

Beautiful work, Renee!

Ran, what are you using for molding? Nice work.

3 $65 holsters from one hide and the hide is paid for. I'd say time is where you make or break a profit. But then, I suspect that most are making more xcustomized items and sell more holsters +$100 ?

Interesting observation. the wing design/ spacing I mimicked from an Aker holster I have, because I wasn't sure exactly where to place the loops. I have found this distance, for my belt anyway, lays a little flatter than a closer spacing. I think my belt is too thick though.

No buffing?

Looks great!

Shooter, I think you'll make it just fine. Maybe a little exposure in the right place and you'll need employees!

Awesome, as always, Dan!

Regarding the snap straps: The idea of the removeable ones was to allow the same holster to fit on different width belts,and to be replaceable if they stretched. Would a second screw on each strap/loop cure the rotation issue? I see that more and more on belt loop holsters( Brigade and others) , using a second mounting screw with a star lock washer.

It does indeed 'click' when inserted.

Watch your clear coat if you use Angelus. It WILL run into the white thread unless you use an airbrush. That's been my experience.

Thanks, Paul..I couldn't find it . Jake

I think this topic has been covered before but I can't find it. http://www.brigadegunleather.com/holsterphotos/IMG_9417.jpg How is this holster sewn, as in what are the steps. I can't seem to wrap my brain around it. Thanks

I had yet to try making a snap-style pancake or a closed toe holster ( which some of you disdain) so I combined them in this LC9/CT holster. W&C Chestnut scrap ( belly area), Angelus dye on the edges and I haven't put any finish on it yet. I tried something new for establishing the stitchline. I took two pieces of scrap rectangles, and glued them at 3 edges. The top edge of this had my pattern profile cut in it ( along the reinforcement area). Molded the gun, then stitched around the perimeter with no thread in the machine. Then tore the results apart and flattened out the scrap. Lots of work but was more out of curiousity of how to stitch around something pre-molded, as I know some of you do. I'm pleased overall but I have a long way to go. Retension is good but I'm not satisfied with the boning details. More practice needed. I didn't use the vacuum this time. I think I'll leave off the decorative lines on the loops , next time, and maybe round the wings more. Comments?

How many holsters do you make per year, and do you earn your living doing this or just as a paying hobby? I'm curious where the custom market is in general. It seems like most maker's sites I go on are backlogged for 6-12 or more weeks and, in some cases, they have their ordering systems shut off.

Matt, might you have a picture of the metal piece you have made?

Looks like the stippling vs. checkering has become factory standard on at least one manufacturer's model .Here is the new G2 Millenium from Taurus http://www.taurususa.com/product-details.cfm?id=872&category=Pistol&breadcrumbseries=&search=