SooperJake

Looks good, Lizard.

The more saddle soap you apply, or the more dye you apply? Please clarify. Thanks

I like em too

When i've put waterstain on an edge, in particular, a black edge on a natural belt, I could see a faint creeping of the fluid (water I assume) out from the edge into the surrounding leather. It ends up looking like a waterstain to me. Just a fine line along the black. Not sure how to prevent that other than going back to spirit dye on the edge, which burnishes better anyway I have found.

Nice job, Jeff. How do you like the waterstain out of the airbrush? Any problems? Thinned or straight?

Thanks for the clarification, guys.

While perusing on Del Fatti's site, I noticed he says to measure the belt from the fold of leather for the buckle to the middle hole. I always thought the measurement started at the inside front bar of the belt, as per Al Stohlman's books. How do you measure for your gunbelts?

Very nice.

Very cool, Dave. Nice work.

I think the stamping is interesting..it has an organic, almost ruffled appearence. Reminds me of something out of the ocean deep. I like it.

I'd say the willow green or Nile green are pretty close to mint. You could get the willow and a white and adjust from there I'd wager. See the link, below. http://www.shoetreem...lors_p/1007.htm

Welcome, from the land of cheese (Wisconsin)

Beautiful rig! I especially like the window on the knife sheath.

I thought there might be such a thing as a "belt burnisher"...some special machine for belts.Thanks for posting the picture, Dwight.

What's a belt burnisher, Dwight? Where would one acquire such a device?

What size slot do you use for the buckle and how far back tothe first Chicago screw from the slot, typically?

Tubular rivets get flared down with a special tool, which Tandy sells (#8099-00) I've attached a picture of what the copper tubular rivet looks like when peened. It is a very strong rivet but will have the potential to scratch anything that passes over it, like the gun. Even when it is well anchored into the leather. The discoloration surrounding the rivets was caused by the leather still being wet from molding.

As to your question about a stitching groover/ creaser : I stopped using a groover. I use a small stylus ( ball end) inserted in a compass in place of the lead. With the needle pivot flipped over and inserted to act as a fence on the other leg of the compass. I put a drop of super glue on each to keep them in place, as the screws used to tighten aren't very good, and I didn't want anything to slip. It works like a charm. It works so well I don't even wet the leather. It basically burnishes the groove in.

Wiz, I do have the foot pressure turned down to the bare minimum. I haven't used the table yet and was told that would also help, in conjunction with the roller guide. Is that so? I still have the standard plate on, and I went back to the standard double foot. I was pretty sure the problem is me and not the machine. On smaller stuff like holsters and my test and practice pieces it has worked flawlessly.

How was the dark bead made? Applied or cut in?

I worked on a gun belt today stitching with the Cowboy CB4500. I had a number of spots where the stitch was either shorter than the setting or much longer than. Is it me and the feed pressure I am applying ? Can a sewing machine do this all on its own? Please suggest corrections if you can. Pictures tell all. Thanks

Titebond III is water proof and works on leather. It's the one from Titebond with the green colored label.

Nice!

Happen to have a pic of the other side?

Bump.... 2 emails went un answered. has anyone had any luck with this company or learned who sells their products?