SooperJake

I think this topic has been covered before but I can't find it. http://www.brigadegunleather.com/holsterphotos/IMG_9417.jpg How is this holster sewn, as in what are the steps. I can't seem to wrap my brain around it. Thanks

I had yet to try making a snap-style pancake or a closed toe holster ( which some of you disdain) so I combined them in this LC9/CT holster. W&C Chestnut scrap ( belly area), Angelus dye on the edges and I haven't put any finish on it yet. I tried something new for establishing the stitchline. I took two pieces of scrap rectangles, and glued them at 3 edges. The top edge of this had my pattern profile cut in it ( along the reinforcement area). Molded the gun, then stitched around the perimeter with no thread in the machine. Then tore the results apart and flattened out the scrap. Lots of work but was more out of curiousity of how to stitch around something pre-molded, as I know some of you do. I'm pleased overall but I have a long way to go. Retension is good but I'm not satisfied with the boning details. More practice needed. I didn't use the vacuum this time. I think I'll leave off the decorative lines on the loops , next time, and maybe round the wings more. Comments?

How many holsters do you make per year, and do you earn your living doing this or just as a paying hobby? I'm curious where the custom market is in general. It seems like most maker's sites I go on are backlogged for 6-12 or more weeks and, in some cases, they have their ordering systems shut off.

Matt, might you have a picture of the metal piece you have made?

Looks like the stippling vs. checkering has become factory standard on at least one manufacturer's model .Here is the new G2 Millenium from Taurus http://www.taurususa.com/product-details.cfm?id=872&category=Pistol&breadcrumbseries=&search=

Looks good, Lizard.

The more saddle soap you apply, or the more dye you apply? Please clarify. Thanks

I like em too

When i've put waterstain on an edge, in particular, a black edge on a natural belt, I could see a faint creeping of the fluid (water I assume) out from the edge into the surrounding leather. It ends up looking like a waterstain to me. Just a fine line along the black. Not sure how to prevent that other than going back to spirit dye on the edge, which burnishes better anyway I have found.

Nice job, Jeff. How do you like the waterstain out of the airbrush? Any problems? Thinned or straight?

Thanks for the clarification, guys.

While perusing on Del Fatti's site, I noticed he says to measure the belt from the fold of leather for the buckle to the middle hole. I always thought the measurement started at the inside front bar of the belt, as per Al Stohlman's books. How do you measure for your gunbelts?

Very nice.

Very cool, Dave. Nice work.

I think the stamping is interesting..it has an organic, almost ruffled appearence. Reminds me of something out of the ocean deep. I like it.

I'd say the willow green or Nile green are pretty close to mint. You could get the willow and a white and adjust from there I'd wager. See the link, below. http://www.shoetreem...lors_p/1007.htm

Welcome, from the land of cheese (Wisconsin)

Beautiful rig! I especially like the window on the knife sheath.

I thought there might be such a thing as a "belt burnisher"...some special machine for belts.Thanks for posting the picture, Dwight.

What's a belt burnisher, Dwight? Where would one acquire such a device?

What size slot do you use for the buckle and how far back tothe first Chicago screw from the slot, typically?

Tubular rivets get flared down with a special tool, which Tandy sells (#8099-00) I've attached a picture of what the copper tubular rivet looks like when peened. It is a very strong rivet but will have the potential to scratch anything that passes over it, like the gun. Even when it is well anchored into the leather. The discoloration surrounding the rivets was caused by the leather still being wet from molding.

As to your question about a stitching groover/ creaser : I stopped using a groover. I use a small stylus ( ball end) inserted in a compass in place of the lead. With the needle pivot flipped over and inserted to act as a fence on the other leg of the compass. I put a drop of super glue on each to keep them in place, as the screws used to tighten aren't very good, and I didn't want anything to slip. It works like a charm. It works so well I don't even wet the leather. It basically burnishes the groove in.

Wiz, I do have the foot pressure turned down to the bare minimum. I haven't used the table yet and was told that would also help, in conjunction with the roller guide. Is that so? I still have the standard plate on, and I went back to the standard double foot. I was pretty sure the problem is me and not the machine. On smaller stuff like holsters and my test and practice pieces it has worked flawlessly.

How was the dark bead made? Applied or cut in?