SooperJake

Woodstain, unless it contains a dye in its mix, is pigment based, and will likely blotch and pile worse than it does on wood. If you try anything made for wood, I would suggest trying Transtint from Homestead Finishes. Your major woodworking stores will carry it. It can be mixed in denatured alcohol , tap or distilled water. It is an aniline dye. I have no doubt that it will dye leather. But colorfastness lifespan, in direct sunlight, would be worth testing for some duration. the dashboard of your car is a good place for that test. Dye a piece of scrap. let it dry good, and lob it onto the dashboard. I was at the woodworking store today and forgot to buy it. A 2oz liquid bottle will make 2 quarts at full dilution. Economical if mixed with distilled water. Same company makes Transfast, which is a powder you mix with water to make an aniline dye. It is even less expensive. http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/htdocs/TransTint.htm

How was the class and where did you take it?

Further experimentation revealed it to be the leather, not the dye. I took scrap from 4 different hides : WC chestnut drum dyed, Hermann Oak, Tandy Royal, and Springfield's Mexico tanned #1 double shoulder. I set them side by side and dyed them one after the other. Two of the four turned white and two didn't. Hermann Oak and Wickett & Craig took the dye with no hazing. The Tandy and the SLC Mexico turned white as fast as the solvent from the dye evaporated. I think I know why the Eco Flo turned white now, too. I must have used the SLC leather on that belt. By the way, I tiny amount of neetsfoot, applied once the dye is dry, took away the white. I'll check tomorrow, after the oil fully disperses, to see if the white stays gone. Jake

I dyed a couple holsters with Fiebing pro oil black and when it dried the leather has a white haze on both sides. I applied 3 successive coats with a dauber to get good coverage ( one after another) . Some neatsfoot does seem to reduce the haze but it would not buff off at all. Any ideas as to what might cause this? I have also gotten a white haze using Tandy Eco Flo Pro black. Not the same hide.

Where, approximately, do you draw the line to cut off belly leather from a side? What am I looking for specifically?

Nice work...and now I want some of that dark brown dye, too!

Yes. Both sides.

I am wondering if there is a way to lower or prevent excessive wrinkling on the compression side of a pancake holster around the belt slots. This holster is 7oz dyed with pro oil Fiebing's black. Glued and sewn flat, then molded. I conditioned it ( Bick 4) after molding and drying, then put some tan kote on for a quick finish. If gluing it on a curve would reduce the wrinkles, would I then want to use the elevated holster-type foot on the Cowboy to stitch? Right now I have the standard plate and the table attached, but the table is higher than the foot by a little. The table cannot be mounted any lower without modification, as it is bottomed out on the casting of the arm. Holster picture tells all.

Dwight, can you further explain this part? If I read you right, you have not sewn on the trigger guard side?

Shorten the extra leather at the muzzle will help. You have too much there. Otherwise sew it shut for a closed-toe. What dye did you use? Some dyes are notorious for thread transfer. I've had the best luck , so far, using the Eco Flo Pro waterstain, preconditioned with Bick 4. . Someone else may give you their take. If you are using Fiebing USMC, you'd have better luck spinning the sun on your finger like a basketball. I just bought some Fiebing's Pro Oil Black to try it, but I haven't stitched through it yet. Preliminary edge dye testing did not rub off on my jeans after I buffed it vigorously with a cotton rag.

Nice work George!

When I used it i didn't put anything on it after. I stopped using it because I didn't want my stuff smelling like lemons, and I like Angelus clears better. I apply with an airbrush, and the Angelus is cut 50% with distilled water. Never tried dipping wwith mop& glo.

Also, what is the leather weight, and are you lining these? Thanks.

Beautiful work, Renee!

Ran, what are you using for molding? Nice work.

3 $65 holsters from one hide and the hide is paid for. I'd say time is where you make or break a profit. But then, I suspect that most are making more xcustomized items and sell more holsters +$100 ?

Interesting observation. the wing design/ spacing I mimicked from an Aker holster I have, because I wasn't sure exactly where to place the loops. I have found this distance, for my belt anyway, lays a little flatter than a closer spacing. I think my belt is too thick though.

No buffing?

Looks great!

Shooter, I think you'll make it just fine. Maybe a little exposure in the right place and you'll need employees!

Awesome, as always, Dan!

Regarding the snap straps: The idea of the removeable ones was to allow the same holster to fit on different width belts,and to be replaceable if they stretched. Would a second screw on each strap/loop cure the rotation issue? I see that more and more on belt loop holsters( Brigade and others) , using a second mounting screw with a star lock washer.

It does indeed 'click' when inserted.

Watch your clear coat if you use Angelus. It WILL run into the white thread unless you use an airbrush. That's been my experience.

Thanks, Paul..I couldn't find it . Jake