SooperJake

Awesome! Edges are top notch! What's your secret?

Thanks for the kind words. The background is the last of a hide I bought from Tandy last year that wouIdn't lay flat so I soaked it with the hose, pressed it flat with a door and put in the sun for a day or two. I love that color.

Yes it is. I use it pretty much exclusively now. Also, if you intend to use Tandy's Eco Flo pro waterstain, pretreat the leather with Bick 4 and wait about 10 minutes, then apply the Eco Flo pro with a sponge, blotting off the excess waterstain onto a rag. Wipe until the surface is even a looks dry then stop. Works perfect.

Are you refering to Eco Flo Pro waterstains?

Looks cool, dAwG!

Maybe getting the pictures on the post would help....

Here is my first horse hide holster for an XDm .45 and a small M&P compact holster. The horse is strange to work with. It cut really easy and sanded like a dream but it had areas that were like end grain on wood. I don't think it was the most top quality piece. I redyed the horse hide black as it was kind of faded. I goofed up and used the wrong stitch line pattern so when I realized my goof I tore the damn thing up and threw it away. Next holster the stitching will follow the contour appropriately. Also first time not putting the stitch line all the way around a holster (M&P) and it just looks unfinished to me. Anyway., I wanted to get opinions mostly on the photo set up. How do the pictures look overall ( as well as the holsters) ?

After setting the two holsters side by side today I realized one thing: My 25° cant angle is actually 28.5°...Not sure how I managed that but I checked the pattern to confirm the angle. I made the high angle for the same reason as Colt stated, to get the big grip up out of sight. That part works great and it isn't too bad when seated either. One of those trade offs I guess. On a recent IWB I made for my nephew's SR40c, I also tried a new thing (new to me) : Molding the gun on an angle so that the front protrudes in the front and the body side protrudes in the back. Not sure if that is well explained but the grip is welded against the body. Kind of a cross between a flat back mold and a front mold. Not sure about how it will work in the seated position. I need to get the pistol back for some testing.

When is the cant angle "too much"? I just finished a holster for an XDM 4.5" length barrel set at 25° cant and I found it quite awkward to draw smoothly. Prior to that I made one for an M&P compact at around 23° and it draws a lot easier, I assume because of the shorter length, more than the 2° angle difference. Still, 23 seems like too much. What is your take?

Looks like the cant is beyond 20° ...I have found that a cant angle up in the twenties is fine for short barreled autos but not so much on the longer length shooters. I just finished a prototype for an XDM 4.5" at 25° and it makes the draw awkward, as the pistol must move forward more than up at first. I won't be making a second one. What color did you use?

Yes, nice color and holster both. Russet dye from which company?

This might work http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Dye-Paint-Color-GREY/dp/B006H2XPPW

Awesome work!

Welcome. BTW, all 3 Springfields came with their XD Gear Holster and save for the XDMs being marked as such, they are identical near as I can tell.

Thanks , Guys!

While I don't have calipers handy, I made a holster for my 4.5" XDM in .45 and my XD 3" 9mm SC and XDM 3.8" 9mm both fit in it. Conversly, I have an Aker Flatsider Patriot XR20 made for the XD 3" SC 9mm and the XDM .45 4.5" will fit in it as well ( retension strap won't snap though). I'd try the XDM 9mm but I just installed and zeroed the laser. I'd say the critical dimentions are pretty darn close. Hope this helps.

Can I use a Sig P220 mag for a pouch to fit a 1911? Close enough for a good fit?

Are the Glock Gen4 dimensions different than previous models?

Buy direct from Hermann Oak. Your first order can be less than 10 hides. You can just buy backs or whole sides. For one or two hides W&C direct is nice too. I like their Chestnut color. Beats hell out of dyeing brown and trying to get an even color.

Can anyone recommend a reasonably affordable laser set up for cutting leather?

I'd avoid the USMC. It bleeds forever. Fiebing's Pro Oil works fantastic.

I've had best luck using the Eco Flo Pro waterstain with a light coat of Bick 4 conditioner applied before the waterstain. I apply the waterstain about 10 minutes after the conditioner with good results, using a piece of yellow turtlewax sponge misted with water and blotted off on paper towel. . Part of the cracking of these products, I think, is the fact that they contain pigments that lay on the surface, rather than a liquid that is absorbed into the leather. Also, the leather could have been too dry from the beginning. The Bick 4 application has cured my issues with the Eco Flo Pro at least.. Might be worth a try. I have been using this on belts, mainly.

Looks like you are using this one "integrated lable forms" ..I think. Thanks Dwight! http://www.my1stop.com/Order-Stock-IntegratedLabels.aspx?productName=M1S016

Where'd that label come from Dwight?

If you charge the customer only what it costs you at the post office you are losing money....in time and packing materials at the minimum.