SooperJake

Very cool George.

I'm pretty tired of not being able to get the molds I need in a timely manner. Can anyone suggest suppliers of other gun molds that typically would be in stock?

Read this thread Keith. Some good details in it. http://leatherworker...&hl=+flat +back and this one too http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=42549&hl=%2Bflat+%2Bback

Have you ever tried spraying it?

where abouts in Wisconsin are you located?

Eric, Are you still using / spraying the Eco Flo Pro waterstain?

Texas Custom Dies...I had one made 3/8" x 1 5/8",,,about $70 I think. Took a couple weeks to get it. The first one I had made was from Weaver and is a POS...even after I paid to send it right back to them because it came to me dull as hell, they basically sent it back in the same condition. I screwed it to the wall to remind me not to do business with Weaver. With shipping it back and original price I lost about $130, but gain important industry knowledge.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=40267&hl=magazine make the angle of the belt slots parallel to the stitch line as in this link ....the post #7 by particle

Some times you want a little bit of slant prior to molding. The molding process will pull the slots up to vertical. Visually, this is very evident on belt slot mag carriers. You can do a test to see how much the stitch line on a mag (for instance) will angle or pull the leather. Glue two scrap squares together on three sides...just enough to hold them together. Wet and mold. Sew around the mag with no thread in your machine, or poke holes around the molded mag as if you were stitching by hand. Now tear apart the glue and press the front piece flat. You'll be amazed at the amount of angle you'll see from the bottom of the mag to the top.

Very Nice. What dye/color/and application technique did you use?

Do you (would you if you could) use the same perimeter pattern for a given holster design facilitating clicker die use, or do you have a pattern for every make and model holster you offer?

Maybe they should check for tunnels under the prisoners cell? Awesome piece.

To me it lays smoother on the belt and doesn't torque or kink the belt as much. Mostly it's aesthetics. What do you mean "more leather under the belt"?

Colt, are those clips from Tandy?

looks good but I like the belt slots to end up close to vertical, not slanted at all.

I like to punch belt slots through wet leather as it cuts much cleaner, so that operation is done right before molding.

Nice work!

Check out Robert Meco's site, and shoot him a PM. I'm sure he'd be willing to guide you in the right direction. He specializes in pocket holsters. http://mecopocketholsters.com/

For those of you that sell your work, and would be willing to share, I'd be curious to learn how you arrived at your pricing structure. After a week's worth a research, I'm more puzzled than when I started. I see some websites charging price N for work that is equal to the quality of other sites charging N x 2. I was in retail for a long time and I understand margin and profit and the like but that was for commercially manufactured goods which are a lot easier to figure out than hand made goods. Is an LCP holster price equal to a full sized 1911? Seems like about equal work, all in all. Less leather in the LCP of course. I guess I'm seeking some sort of consensus in the area of leather work generally and holster making specifically.

Looks good . What model firearm was it made for?

hey Ran..give this a whorl sometime: Pick up a bottle of Bick 4 Conditioner, and precondition the leather before dying with the Eco Flo Pro Waterstain. Wait 10 minutes then apply the dye. I've seen the most whiteness forming from Tandy leather or the Mexico tanned stuff I got from SLC. Tests on WC and HO did not turn white. Anyway, once the dye dries,and if you have the white haze, just apply a little more Bick 4 conditioner. The white will be gone.

Thanks guys. I was thinking a third light from above, a bit dimmer than the two sides might cure that dullness which you picked up on. I used to have 3 lights for taking pics of my girlfriends African violets. About the only way I could get a good picture was using 3 lights then. I am currently using 2 lights, one has its own diffuser cloth over it (left) so the right side light is slightly stronger. Both lights are pointed upward to the ceiling with no other lights on. Could be the window light as you say. I 'm shooting straight down on the holster also. I actually liked the earlier photo only because it accurately reflect the sheen on the holster. This latest shot is misleading, and makes the finish look more matte.

Thanks, Tom, but what did you think of my picture?

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=47531 this link to the holster forum shows my previous lighting set up. Jake

I am trying to get a good lighting set up for photographing holsters which often have a reflective topcoat. I want to highlight the molding details and avoid the hot spots caused by the lights? Here is my latest attempt. Comments welcomed and appreciated. I'm not really sure how to proceed or have I arrived? Something just seems off about this latest picture.