SooperJake

I'd avoid the USMC. It bleeds forever. Fiebing's Pro Oil works fantastic.

I've had best luck using the Eco Flo Pro waterstain with a light coat of Bick 4 conditioner applied before the waterstain. I apply the waterstain about 10 minutes after the conditioner with good results, using a piece of yellow turtlewax sponge misted with water and blotted off on paper towel. . Part of the cracking of these products, I think, is the fact that they contain pigments that lay on the surface, rather than a liquid that is absorbed into the leather. Also, the leather could have been too dry from the beginning. The Bick 4 application has cured my issues with the Eco Flo Pro at least.. Might be worth a try. I have been using this on belts, mainly.

Looks like you are using this one "integrated lable forms" ..I think. Thanks Dwight! http://www.my1stop.com/Order-Stock-IntegratedLabels.aspx?productName=M1S016

Where'd that label come from Dwight?

If you charge the customer only what it costs you at the post office you are losing money....in time and packing materials at the minimum.

Method, cost to customer, tiered charges? Free? One fixed price? I hadn't shipped anything priority mail in a while and it has gotten kind of expensive for the flat rate boxes I see. Looking for input. I would like to hear from anyone that uses any of the major options like USPS, UPS, FedEx, or any company for that matter.

I am using a NuWave Oven. The low setting is 106° F Another woodworking finish that wroks, and sprays nicely is General Finishes Exterior 450, which I use on some archery stuff. I cut it 10% with water. So far no delamination or crazing.

I don't like the idea of a "one-size-fits-most" approach concerning holsters. That very concept, practiced by a major manufacturer, is what got me into making holsters in the first place. Being able to reholster your weapon one handed without looking is a good thing. Your IWB should be rigid enough to allow this.

Give this a whorl on some scrap, Eric: sand, dye, burnish with canvas or a piece of scrap leather gran-side. I burnish now with canvas wrapped on a rod of steel on a buffing machine, but it works by hand too. A wet dyed edge burnishes almost effortlessly on good leather. Worth a try.

Nice work, Josh.

Why not try using a piece of natural sponge? You are obviously having a chemical reaction with the synthetic sponge, which is petroleum based in its manufacture. For one color dying I dip dye now. Airbrush works good too, but is a little too light an application for my tastes. Fiebing's Pro Oil dyes applies pretty good with a dauber. Several successive applications (while still wet) help even out the color. Remember to let it dry completely before you fiddle with it. Wet leather always looks darker, I remind myself all the time to be more patient when dying, so that I see the real, dried color first, before I add another coat. Pro Oil Saddle Tan is terrible dark when first applied, but lightens up a lot after drying. I just used it for the first time the other day, and really like that color. For water based dyes I have been using a Turtlewax yellow car sponge, or a no-name equivalent which is half the price. I keep a piece for each color in a plastic lidded container so they are always just a tad damp. So far no mold after 3 or 4 months. I rinse them good before I put them away.

Great Comments all. Thanks, and keep them coming.

Nice rig!

I'm curious as to how long the average person takes to make a holster? Let's say a pancake holster, one color, no tooling or reinforcement/ decoration, or an Avenger with a reinforcement sans tooling or exotics. I'm not talking about actual hands-on working time, but inclusive time of drying of dyes and finishes and the like- ready to ship.

Nice job, Mike!

How's the dust collection on the Rigid?

Nice work Frank.

Nice work! Who supplies your sharkskin?

One and a half actually, on the 4500. Not sure about the 3500.

Your design is an idea I, too, have kicked around, but thought the mouth might crush under belt tension. I guess I'll have to give it a go. Thanks!

Nice job!

I'd suggest making your loops smaller. How well does the mouth stay open under belt tension once the pistol is drawn?

Thanks Wiz

What should I adjust when the knots are visible from the bottom? I sometimes have to switch between the flat plate and the holster plate and when using the holster plate, it seems the knots show up more often.

Welcome to the Forums, Armin.