Rawhide

They didn't charge me for the split, but I know they charge to buff the back...it could be a policy change or just a mistake on the order...nonetheless, it's very fine leather.

I prefer Fiebing's Oil Dye... it penetrates deeply and I coat with a mixutre of Resolene and Leather balm with Atom wax... I've had pretty good luck with this combination, plus I can choose the edge color, it doesn't have to be black or brown.

Welcome to the forum Redbeard. This is a great place for learning and improving your work...

Kevin, All you have to do is number the sizes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and so on and have a corresponding belt size you can use later when the customer isn't around...That will keep the real number away from the customer's eyes and all is well.

I've tooled that pattern before and you did a very nice job. I like the fact that you textured the spine, that's the part that will get the most abuse and the texture will hide some of the fold marks.. Very nice.

Man we had such a great time. I definitley hope we can do it again. Let me know what class you guys set up in Austin...That would be a nice trip. Jbird, I'm sure you'll get the chance if you attend some of the shows. I don't think George is going to Sheridan this year, because of a graduation, but that's probably the closest for you..

Sure, just probably not on the public forum. I can only describe it, I don't have a picture of it, but trust me you'll get the visual.

Just want to share a bit with you all. ScissorMedic, and ATX drove up from Austin to Hidecrafters, followed closely by their cohort Daniel, to attend a class with myself and "the doc" (I forget his real name, but we call him doc)...and Mr. George Hurst. I cannot begin to tell you the blast we had...George is one hell of a guy. We learned a lot in class and a lot about George's adventures in the leather business. The first day of class was spent tooling, talking, talking some more, and painting using acrylics (my first time using acrylics other than the occasional splash of white). After we coated our projects with resist, we left them overnight to dry. ATX, Scissormedic, and I then followed George to his home and he and his wife began to show us all the different original leather projects he, Al Stohlman, Robb Barr, Chan Geer, Bill Gomer, and others did...Talking about a hall of fame. He showed us a closet full of tools, some original tools that never made the cut for production and some that did, some specially made swivel knives, and a professional baseball collection of the likes of Joe Dimaggio. Then he showed us file cabinets FULL of original patterns, (Al Stohlman was quite the hoot - Just trust me on this)... Then we sat down and talked for about an hour or two about leather, his friendships with Al, Robb Barr, and Robert Beard...Man what a time. The next day, all we needed to do was antique our work. Since we were ahead of where George thought we'd be, he said, let's do another little project...just to fill the rest of the time that the class would have gone for...So we embossed a little fish. I haven't dyed mine yet, but will here in the next few days. He's one of the greatest.. The other guys may chime in on the day, but I'm still laughing and in awe at the stories and the talent. I'm humbled. Result of the class:

John, I think you absolutley have every right to sign off on that...You are the creative director so to speak...So you hired a contractor to do your carving...that's the way businesses work today. Jack Justis hires someone to do his carving and he still sell it as a Jack Justis case... I work for a major defense contractor and I design a lot of parts for aircrafts...I don't get to sign my name on the aircraft when it flies... monthly moral/ethical problem solved. Tell that guy to go scratch..

is this what you're after? Barry King Braid toolSee here

I know, I know

Tandy does carry an awl installed in a haft already...See here However Bob Douglas makes the best damn blades on the planet. His info is on the suppliers page.

I lined mine with som really soft chrome tan. I think as long as you line them with some form of leather, you'll be fine.

Jim, I sure will... I actually saw him yesterday...he was working on a pattern for our class this weekend. So I'll see him tomorrow and Sunday. This will be good, 'cause I love to mess with Ron.

muuhaahaa!!! We got another one!!!!

Jim, The blade is the slim one I think. It is 2mm across the flats, and 3mm across the cutting edges, which translates to roughly .078 x .118 and about 1.2 inches long (past the ferrule), so more than likely it's at least 1 3/4 to 2 inches or so long. My Peter Main awl is about 1.3 mm across the flats and 2 mm across the cutting edges, which is about .050 x .078 and about 1 inch long past the ferrule. Here's a picture of the blades next to a penny for comparison. The Peter Main blade is on the left, and the Bob Douglas is on the right.

Jim, I use my Peter Main blade for stitches 8 spi and above. Click here (post #8) to see a comparison with holes sizes I posted a while back. I can measure it if you want when I get home.

I took the liberty of asking...just in case anyone else had the same question.... ...yes, all is glued. Look at any album in stores and you will find they are 'glued'. The outer cover is glued (with contact cement) only around the edges, as there is foam padding under both front and back covers. The goatskin lining (skived to a feather edge) is glued with 'white glue' (Elma's style). I have used this as excess glue can be cleaned up with damp rag (with water of course). Glueing such a fine edge with a contact cement is not practical. Peter

Glad you could join us here... we love to have suppliers in on these discussions...it helps to clear up both sides of the quesitons. My james awl did come sharp, but not nearly sharp enough...I had to work on it for a little while. Not as long as I had to work my Osborne though...I have the curved James awl, so maybe that's the difference. The only awls I have ever purchased that didn't require any work were Bob Douglas and Peter Main's. Osborne is famous for not grounding the edges down, so that the consumer can easily put their own bevel angle in place without a lot of rework...

I've got all three, a John James, an Osborne, and a Bob Douglas. I think that the Osborne would be better for shaping and sharpening. The James is harder to sharpen for me. Regardless of what's said mine (James, nor Osborne), came ready to use. My Douglas did though...It's like going from dial up to high speed...at first the price sucks, but then you can't live without it.

I think it's only glued. I know he likes the leather cement a lot, but I'll ask if you'd like to know.

Peter taught me how to do this about a year ago and I did it to one of my scalpel handles. It helps in the grip of it tremendously. Glad he decided to put it in print.

At least for the Roo, it's veg-tan... the veg is much stronger than the chrome...I'm not sure if the same applies to cow/calf.

Ricky, I usually make my own, but I use kangaroo hide. I usually split it down to about 1-2 oz or less after I cut the thongs.