cjartist
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Everything posted by cjartist
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Okay, that makes sense. If it is old, is it not good to use? I will try it on some scrap. I don't think it is stained. Probably just old. I guess I should probably smell it too. Thanks for the reply. -
Seems nobody is around tonight. All the neatsfoot I have seen has been pale yellow. To be more specific, the container has writing that says "20 CT Neatsoot"
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I fell like I have seen it in one of the Tandy flyers one time. If the above is true, it sounds like a great product. The only goat I have ever used was chrome tanned. I made a few nice business card holders but didn't like the way it wrinkled before getting broken in by regular use. So I would like to know more also about veg tanned goat if anyone has used it.
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I have a lot of hand me down dyes and oil. There is one large rubbermaid container that is marked Neatsfoot oil but the oil inside is orange. Does neatsfoot discolor? Or is this likely some other oil like saddle or harness oil? With that said, what is the difference? Thanks for your input, Cheryl
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Rifle Scabbard
cjartist replied to LonesomeLeather's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
I think it looks fantastic. I have that same problem with accidents mucking up my work. My latest project has some unwanted dye splatter, twice. First it picked some up off my owrk surface and second time I knocked over the cup I was working out of. Very frustrating. Nicks and scratches happen too, especially when lacing. -
Looking good.
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Here is ow mine came out. It is challenging to come up with different patterns. It was a lot of fun too. Unfortunately I picked up some green dye splatter off my work bench.
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That's pretty cool. Paisley does indeed seem to be a challenge. Seems like having just basic stamping tools is a deficit but I can't see buying new stamps for this purpose. I am going to work on some paisley today. I will update with pics once it is done.
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I would use my swivel knife with a light cut on the inside lines. Regualr depth on outside and bevel those edges to make it stand out.
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Cool. You use the carnauba for hardness? Or is it just harder in the container?
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Yes, it seems that folks here swear that neatsfoot oil is the conditioner that has always been used. Yet I think across the pond, in the UK, they use more tallow. That is precisely why that is in the list. Some suggest that tallow will go rancid. Will vitamin e or eucalyptus be enough to prevent or slow that process? I don't know. At this point, I am thinking that the recipe will look something like 50% NFO, 25% beeswax, 20% tallow, 5% carnauba, and a few drops of vitamin e Still open for debate and suggestions
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Hey Gray, just wondering about your coloring. Are you using mostly dye? Obviously the white is not but I can't tell with some of the other colors. Thanks.
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I agree. The benefits do outweigh the risks. On your previous comment about breath-ability, resolene or super sheen would have the same effect of sealing the leather and therefore drying it out. Since we generally don't seal the flesh side, this may not be an issue. Wood has the same potential problem. Wood that is used out in the weather is usually also only sealed on three sides (picnic tables, decks, etc.).
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Did you read the article I linked to in the first post? Funny how they determined that leather will survive just fine without any treatment whatsoever.
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I have been using Belvoir Leather Balsam. The jar is just about empty and that is the reason I am considering making my own. That stuff has lanolin and beeswax and who knows what else. It smells pretty potent of lanolin (I think). Every commercially available product uses some form of chemicals. What I don't know is the reason ... is it for penetration and drying, or to keep it from going rancid? What I really want is something that is good for the leather, easy to apply, and gives it a shine with simple hand buffing. I also don't want to have to heat it with a hair dryer or heat gun. Does the simple neatsfoot and beeswax melt meet these criteria?
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Ha ha ... good point. Thanks. Yes I am going through a beekeeper. I will ask.
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Wow! That's beautiful.
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I did not know that. Good. That is just the type of info I am looking for. Thanks.
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I did try to research that before and landed on the NPS article I linked above and got distracted. I just looked again and found this: Anhydrous lanolin 7 oz. Ceadrwood oil 1 fl oz. Beeswax ½ oz Hexane 11 fl oz. Hexane seems to be a petroleum product. Plus the ratio of lanolin to beeswwax of 14:1 would make that extremely expensive IMO.
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That is the way I am leaning myself right now, beeswax + carnauba + neatsfoot and perhaps vitamin e or eucalytptus to minimize any decaying properties. The carnauba is supposed to add some shine. I was curious about turpentine mostly as a carrier to help penetrate. Seems it is made from trees? Whatever I choose, I want it to be natural ingredients.
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I have just been reading the many threads here regarding a leather conditioner recipe as I want to create my own. A widely used one here seems to be a mix of neatsfoot oil and beeswax. I have come up with a list of possible ingredients and would love to hear the pros and cons of each as some seem to be very controvesial. Beeswax Lanolin neatsfoot oil Tallow Carnauba wax turpentine cod liver oil Vitamin e eucalyptus oil tea tree oil Then to further complicate things (or just for some interesting reading) I came upon this article from the National Park Service Leather Dressing: To Dress or Not to Dress Would love to hear your comments. I have found a local source for beeswax. As of this moment that is the only ingredient I am 100% sure that I will be using.
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Your user name is etchgirl. This looks like you are trying to etch the leather. Perhaps with some type of beveler, or skiver? It does not look like it follows standard leather carving practices. That is why it may be worthwhile to answer those questions from above.
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Hello from Northern Indiana/ Post-Apocalyptic
cjartist replied to WastelandOuterwear's topic in Member Gallery
Congrats. Most people have to work a job they hate in order to also do what they love. Sounds like you found a good deal for yourself. -
Up near the top of the page over on the right there is a search box. Search 'Casing' and it should produce a lot of results. Just perform the search from the main page so you get all the results.
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Some would stamp the back just to fully complete the project. I would probably fade it out or just stop it at the point where it would be no longer visible. I do not make holsters though and hopefully someone else will chime in here.