Red Cent

I used some Bar Keeper's Friend last evening. I could not detect any bleaching. The stuff acted more like a cleaner and removed a spot or two. The label does not say anything about oxalic acid but says it contains citrus juice. I cannot find any today so I guess I will call some of the chemical companies around here Monday. Tried Walmart, Lowes, Harris Teeter, and a local hardware store and a local hardwood/carpet store. Plenty of muriatic but -0- oxalic.

Been reading about the stuff. The general sites doesn't mention leather. Apparently works well with wood. Thanks northmount.

Thanks Camano. "...don't leave it on too long you can get a pinkish look." May I pin you down on time. Is it a rinse or do you wipe it on with a cloth? Do you rinse it off? Colt, that may be a problem. I have very good water and it is well water. No iron or sulphur taste at all. Something has to be interacting with something. I have some good space and most of the handling is done over fresh roll paper. And this is not stain from anything nor is it oil from the hands. The area or areas are about the size of a nickel or smaller. Very slight and not a dense spot. I will take some pictures. Colt, do you dedicate a portion of the distilled water to each piece?

Probably need some help. I do a bunch of holsters using natural leather. No dye. I cut, sand, glue and stitch. Then wet form. At times I get a grayish look in some small areas. I use Fieblings NF Oil. I read somewhere here that some use a very toxic liquid to clean leather. Does this remove the gray/dirty looking area?

As a hunter, I would suggest adding a suede or something like it to the inside of the strap to keep the rifle on his shoulder. Some do not like the suede because you have to keep it clean, but I know I like the suede. Traipsing up and down the mountains of West Virginia, sometimes I needed two hands and did not "lose" the rifle. Another material that would really work with padding is chamois. I have three slings that are fully suede backed and a couple that have a section where it goes over the shoulder.

Marvolo, you want to dry it out after finishing the product. BDAZ has a ready made oven and big enough for his stuff . I would not think the wax would help the leather to become very stiff. The reason for the post was that each of us may be living in different worlds for leather. However, we discuss the manipulation of leather as if there isn't any difference in the leather each of us use. And there is a difference. A big difference. When I started making holsters, the leather burnished beautifully, after a quick dunk in water and left to dry, they became super stiff. Like rawhide, almost. Then I obtained some very beautiful leather that was mark or scar free. But it was too soft and supple. It would not burnish well and would not become stiff with my regular procedure. So I asked the question. And I discovered that a lot bake their leather to acquire the stiffness needed. Different worlds or knowledge of how "their" leather reacted to burnishing and stiffening. Because of the reasons (leather grading) stated before, I believe I can get results from cheap, dry leather that is, hopefully, scar and hole free.

The prices will matter to me. If you are keeping Ring's blue guns @ $47.99 including shipping I don't have a reason to buy Multi Mold. In my case, they do not have a NM Vaquero or a Colt SAA, or a 1911. As a SASS holster maker including the leather for Wild Bunch competition, these are ones I use the most. Hope the retail endeavor does well.

Rob, I may have missed some of this conversation. Are you retailing Multi Mold guns? And, if so, what is your price including shipping? Their price is $59.95 plus shipping. Nothing unusual but I am confused. I don't detail mold so I cannot address your request. However, I think the sight channel should stay.

No coffee or alcohol.

Thanks Camano

PREMIUM GRADE, #1, #2, A , B, craftsmen grade, Oak grade (Tandy), tannery run,...... Is there a chart somewhere? In addition, some of the leather sales companies supply other retailers from which we buy. Quite a circus for the uninitiated. I did learn that you can show your business license or number and the prices drop. Gotta go do some research on leather production.

Yes the ball point comes out of a hole and is held in place by a magnet. I set most of my rivets with a channel lock plier and a couple pieces of leather padding top and bottom. I guess the press will replace that. Have to study this thing for a while.

Does one drill a hole in the bottom round end to accept stuff? I can do that. But then, I use this thing with my inexpensive milling vise to get a bunch of snaps, rivets, and other things that need a press.

It just occurred to me, and based on my calculations, there is a leather worker somewhere in the world shouting "OH S>>>>>!!! every 4.394 seconds.

Late Bloomer?! I started at 71 and that was just over a year ago.

What would I use this device for in the steps of building a holster and belt? Looks to be brand new and was given to me.

You can really go ch....inexpensive with an airbrush. At least it works well with holsters and belts. http://www.airbrushguru.com/choosing-the-right-airbrush.html

Thank you. Where do you buy your holster and belt leather, if I may ask?

Tomo, you are making a fast decision on the Cobra. Find out the set up. Needle and thread for one. Tension, oh the ubiquitous tension on the Cobra and the Cowboy 4500. Mine sews great (C4). Now I have never used anything else but it will sew up a holster that when folded is two layers of 8-9 and two layers of 5-6. Sometimes there will be an added welt of at least one 8-9. Broken needles are because it has been influenced on the way down and does not hit the hole. Allowed to go straight down, they will not break. Your friend needs to a search here on the Cobra 4. I believe, with a little mechanical ability, he will get it doing what it was built to do. Sew through 7/8"s of leather without breaking a needle or skipping a stitch. Think little needle + big thread =s skipped stitches. Good luck.

The leather from RJF is beautiful and supple. It does great for holsters and belts. But I have trouble getting the edge I got from Zack White Leather. ZW's was dryer and stiffer. Maybe of a lesser quality. I wouldn't know. I don't tool or stamp and I don't know if it would work. Kinda ignorant on what is, or should be considered, premium leather. I am starting to conclude if the hide is devoid of marks of any kind, that is premium. I asked about Hide House in another post here. They advertise Economy double shoulders and put you on notice that the hide may contain range scars or, maybe, a brand. Live and learn. And read, read, re.................

8-9 outer and 5-6 liner all veg tanned double shoulder. Leather was from RJF. I put neutral shoe polish on first and lightly buffed with cotton rag. NF and a few hours in the sun. Applied a finish coat of Leather Sheen and lightly buffed.

Hide House? https://hidehouse.com/

What George said. Neat looking holster.

Yes.

And the Smith 57 and 58.