Red Cent

Found him on facebook. http://www.slickbald.com/modelguns.php

Looks like I need to begin a business. What software are you using for a going business? I have quite an inventory of most of the various tools, Cobra 4, leather, and the rest of the usual stuff.

Recently, I checked around when the Blue Gun Store did not have a desired item. You will not find anything much cheaper. The actual manufacturer (cannot remember the name of the company) will charge you as much as the Blue Gun Store. 'Course if buy a whole bunch they will cut you some slack

"You can use Tandy's Leatherweld or Elmers white wood glue which is about the same thing. It works OK but not the same grab that Barge's or Master's contact cements have. It does take longer to dry. Or you can just put a fan behind you while you are glueing." http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=35851

Electrothon, are we talking about Elmer's Glue?

I use water. Using a grinder motor with a keyless chuck, my homemade dowel rod makes anything from 3 ounce to 10 ounce glass slick with just water. I used the bar soap and it would stain the leather while canned saddle soap will not. If I dye a piece, I will use the bar soap. If I do not dye and after the Neatfoots' Oil, I will add a beeswax and parafin rub to the edge with the dowel rod as I do with the dyed leather.

Nick Nolte did use Joaquin Jackson as an adviser on his leather in Extreme Prejudice. Nolte practically copied Jackson's holster. And I agree that her holster is a clone/copy of Nolte's. Scroll down about 2/3 of the way. There is an "Extreme Prejudice" holster and some comments on our subject. http://www.westernle...rical-holsters/

The holster/welt problem is not solved with the accessories. Wet the holster at the front and use clamps etc to flatten the holster when you sew. If you don't the holster will naturally try to turn/twist down from the foot pressure kicking/flexing the needle out or in and jamming it into the machine. I believe most all of us have been through correcting operator error caused by our ignorance or common sense. Some of the most obvious suggestions that are brushed aside turn into being the problem when analyzed. "277 Thread with a Size 200 Needle Is the most commonly used thread size in leather crafting from saddle and tack, boot and shoe, gun and knife, and all other kinds of craft and industrial applications." http://www.tippmannindustrial.com/images/pdf/Needle-and-Thread-Guide.pdf I sew cowboy competition holsters and concealed carry holsters and I use 277 polyester top and 207 polyester bottom. If you want to hear how my Cobra 4 is set up now PM me.

CWK, where in WV?

What do you y'all do when the customer wants the white stitching?

I have yet to use Gum T but by descriptions it starts out something similar. The MP will not burnish until tacky/almost dry. Once burnished, it becomes stiff yet retains some flexibility. Takes dye well and with buffing, the shine comes back. And a lot of us apply the finish whether it is Mop & Glo or a daubered on clear acrylic. I don't mean to imply that MP is the new go to product to burnish. I, simply, am experimenting with it to see long term results.

You are welcome.

Model 65

I have always used the pencil thing to mold holsters, especially revolvers. The sights on the 19 will trap the gun in the leather if you make a snug holster and wet form. A smal dowel rod will work. I actually shape the "upside down" slope on the pencil to match the normal slope of the front sight. In some cases I will groove the pencil/dowel rod to slide around the front sight. Then I wrap masking tape around the pencil and barrel trapping it into position. If the holster is a pancake or a half pancake this is usually not necesssary because the style creates its own sight channel.

M19 M10

The difference will be in the front sight. The adjustable sight models have a higher (and sharper) front sights. The Smith M19 is different than the 65. The K frame showing on the Blue gun store is like the M65 and the M10. Fixed sights. You can use this gun to mold for a M19 and any with adjustable sights. Tape a pencil to the top of the barrel contured to fill up the void between pencil and front sight.

It is not water proof. It needs a light coat of acrylic like Leather Sheen, Resolene, Mop & Glo, or one of the -Lacs. It is, however, very flexible and not easily removed. They say it is akin to bag kote. Time will tell. "The label suggests that you apply a light coat of acrylic over it to get a tack free finish."

The wife introduced me to something new (to me) today. She explained the characteristics (she is a quilter) of the product. I took a bottle to the shop and looked for a piece of 8-9 ounce veg tanned. I beveled and sanded with 120 grit. I applied the product on the edge of the leather and burnished it on the motor driven burnisher. In a minute or so I had an edge that was slick, shiny, and the promise of hardening that way. Mod Podge. "Mod Podge is an acid-free brand of glue produced by Plaid. Mod Podge is useful for collage and decoupage as it can be used both to glue something down and as a protective layer over it (instead of a varnish). It is available in a gloss, satin, or matte finish." I have the satin finish. The label suggests that you apply a light coat of acrylic over it to get a tack free finish. This stuff slicks down a lot of fuzzies with no problem. Any body use or ever use the stuff? Fuzzy picture but I used the Mod Podge on this today.

Hey, I found a couple of interesting things in my search. Anyone familiar with this machine? http://www.leatherst...com/classic.htm And I found a very interesting thread. Thanks Northmount. http://leatherworker...opic=37299&st=0

Yep, got the edge guide. I have used it with belts. When I make the mag holder I mold then glue the molded part to the back. The back is usually a bit bigger and I trim when finished. Anyway, with an "adjustable" presser foot you could do corners, tight curves, or other things that the guide would be an obstruction. You could do a real neat guided circle. Using the edge of the leather would insure a flowing stitch always at the same distance from the edge. It occurs to me that the left presser foot could be shimmed to stand a little away from the needle. Can't do that to the right single presser foot. Have to think about that one. Hey Steve!!!!

Good read Lobo. Having a few personal firearms does help in the holster making business. I would impress on the new leathercrafters to make sure the customer knows what specific handgun is in his possession. The New Agent could be referred to as an "Agent" but it ain't nothing like it.

And BTW, the customer informed me the SP101 is similar in size compared to the Agent. The SP101 is used often to mold holsters for the Agent. As I understand it the Cobra Agent is a factory tuned higher priced version of the Agent. AND, the Agent used to have the unprotected ejection rod under the barrel. The later Agents have the shroud.

"The Cobra is the same overall size and configuration as the famous Colt Detective Special and uses the same size "D" frame, except that the Cobra's frame is constructed of lightweight aluminum alloy as compared to the all-steel frame of the Detective Special. In the mid-1960s, the Detective Special's and Cobra's grip frame was shortened to the same size as that of the Agent." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colt_Agent#Colt_Agent I have an order for an Agent. I have not seen any of the above handguns for quite a few years. As you can see, any matching gun is about as popular as the one we need. May have to buy a blue gun if they make them.

Cobra 4.

Just asking. I recently sewed a mag pouch. Below is a fuzzy picture. I sewed this using the edge of the leather placing the right single presser foot against the edge of the pouch leather. Do they make a presser foot that is just a little more away from the needle? I also recently sewed a belt. Didn't think about it then, but I could have used the same method. Would like to get a little farther away from the edge.