Red Cent

I need a cheat sheet. One that shows me a Schmetz (my classification) size 25 with a chisel/diamond point. Their web site says I want the "D" and/or "TRI" mneedle. Well great. Have a great time finding it. Will someone help this old hillbilly from WV?. Having said that, what site is out there that I can go order the aforementioned needle in a couple of sizes. I have some Schmetz in 25 and 24 and I have 25 and 24 Organ needles. They are not chisel/diamond point. They are the "S" type.

I have Organ and Schmetz in 25, 24, and 23. They are an "S" needle or I call it the spade. I want a diamond or chisel point. The Schmetz page shows I want a "D" or "TRI" shape needle. I bought some Organ needles 7x4nw DYx3LL thinking they were chisel points. They are the same as I have. Or are they?

It might not fit the situation but the skife knife does just as good and you have more control of the cut. I use it like the name: a knife. I can keep the skiving area contained and judge the thickness as I cut better. http://www.bing.com/...selectedIndex=0

Not yet. Here is a practice piece from last evening. This was sewn with a 25s needle, not much, if any tension on the thread. That is not a machine problem right of center in the picture. http://i229.photobuc...zps4607f410.jpg I have not found the intermittent cause of this. The run was started on the right went to the other end and turned and a couple of inches before stop, something happened. I believe that it has to do with the side mounted tension. The side mounted tension does not really grab the thread. The tension adjustments squeeze discs together to create friction on the thread holder which looks like a pulley. However, I have posted that sometimes when freeing up thread to cut the leather away, the tension is so resistant that I could cut my fingers. Notice the problem starts at the bottom of the picture, left thread run. This happened after about a 20" run, turned the corner, another run and it happened. http://i229.photobuc...zps44d988d2.jpg

Howdy Steve. We just finished cleaning the bobbin area, oiled per video, and rechecked everything. I do have 24s in a spade point. Will try those until I get the "D" needles in. "Red Cent...try using 277 top thread and 207 bobbin thread with a 200 (#25) needle..this is what was recommended by Ferdco when I bought my machine...I have used this for years and have never had any problems. Even though they have closed their business the ferdco website is still up...go to that site and go into the needle and thread section and copy down the sizing charts they have. The Ferdco Pro-2000 is the same machine as the Cobra Class 4 except for a few differences." This came from a old leathercraftsman that posts on Cas City Leathershop. However, I will practice sew a couple of long strips with the 24 to see how it goes.

Read about the black thread. I also read the post about the fellow from Australia. At first I thought EUREKA!, thats the problem. Then I watched the Cobra 4/Al Bane video again and we (Wife and I) had threaded everything properly for the Cobra. I am heading for the workshop and will test out all the possibilities. ".....with the presser feet fully lifted." Watching the video, I finally "caught" the thing about pulling the thread with the presser lifted. The "duh" moment. Thanks for responding Wiz. I will report back.

Wiz, please jump in. Or anybody for that matter. I took your advice and loosened top and bottom tension. Almost no tension other than the nut is touching the spring on both adjustments. It sews very well and it produces a very good thread line. Bottom thread meets top thread around half way and is very snug. However, as you sew, something is causing intermittent tension on top. I use 277 top, 207 bottom, 25 S needle (25 chisel/diamond points ordered) and have a lube pot with liquid saddle soap with glycerin. I can sew one side of a 40 inch belt, 8-9 ounce top and a 4-5 ounce liner, and in one or two places, the top thread will be laying in a straight line and the bottom thread showing up and over the top thread. Some times, when I finish sewing and want to free thread, I grasp the thread this side of the take up arm and pull a few inches loose. Some times it will be smooth with very little tension and then, the next time, the thread will practically cut the finger(s). Any ideas?

Go to the bottom of the page and click on the leather needle. Bottom left. Bunch of info on this site. As you look at the separate needles, be sure to look for "materials". http://www.schmetzne...out-needles.htm http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/supply/needles.html

I have found that on thick or difficult machine sewing, I can hand turn the machine and it does very well. On Cas City, a leather crafter suggested I usee 277 top and 207 bottom. Pulls the bottom up easier and tighter. Ordered some.

Far from a knowledgeable person pertaining to the Cobra 4 but........After discovering an interference with thread path, I took Wiz's advice on adjustment of thread tension. Steve adamantly warns you against messing with the tension adjustments and states that if you adjust one you must adjust the other the same. Well Wiz says to loosen the left side tension to nothing and tighten it enough to hold the tightener on. Loosen the top adjustment almost all the way and tighten as you sew til your lockstitch looks like a lockstitch. I just completed sewing a concealed carry holster (lined) and not a problem. Beautiful sticthes. No skips. Happy camper. I use a 25 needle with 277 top and bottom. I believe that the lube pot helped evrything come together. I adjusted the bobbin tension per a "weight test" described to me on the Cas City "Leatherworker" category. Don't remember all the particulars but he says that you tie a certain weight to your bobbin thread and let it hang gently and it should lower the weight very slowly. I will try to see if I can find it. Found it. http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,47819.0.html Worked for me. The author of this post does not take responsibilty for any............

I believe it was around 30 bucks plus shipping. I found it online and called Zack White. They ordered it.

Looked at the tape again, The main pot looks the same but I do seem to see a protrusion from the right side of the pot. Thanks for the observation Dirtclod.

Same here. Interestingly enough, needle charts tell you to use the 25 needle with 20 ounce or heavier. I have used the 25 with single layer 4-5 ounce up to a total weight of 16 ounces. Does great. I added a lube pot and I think it aids the sewing.

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/redcent69/Leather/Cobra4004_zpsf39669c5.jpg http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/redcent69/Leather/Cobra4003_zpsfc1b354c.jpg This is the same lube pot that John Bianchi used when they recorded his holster making instructions. At that time he was using a Ferdco. I bought mine from Zack White, a local leather wholesale and retail supplier. I am using liquid saddle soap. It does very well and it uses very little of the liquid. If you have watched the tapes, it does leave a wet trail with the stitches. Doesn't stain or inhibit dye.

What size needle are you using for the heavy leather and the size of thread?

Interesting yesterday and today Wiz. I started on my first tapered belt. Did the cut, glued liner, and started to sew about 30 minutes later. Almost immediately I got a skipped stitch. Bummed out, I closed the workshop and went to the house. I read all the posts on "the type of machine you need" and a couple of things jumped at me. I went to the workshop today and adjusted my machine as suggested. At first it worked great, then a skipped stitch. Holy.......!!!!! Stepped back and took a deep breath. I started sewing again and just as the machine skipped a stitch I caught the movement of the roll of thread feeding the machine. WTH???? I looked at the thread from roll to the needle. Read the crazy written book again. I was standing there shaking my head when I caught it. The thread coming from the roll was not in the correct hole on the hanging arm over the rolls. It was catching on the roll. Rethreaded it and have not had a skipped stitch. And I have had this machine for months!! For an excuse its my first machine. So ignorance can be corrected. Thanks for the thread tension advice. And if anyone has this problem maybe they will read about it and be saved from a humiliating post

The bobbin will release thread without much resistance. The tension is very light. The upper thread path is pretty straight. I have added a lube pot but the resistance is negligible. Like nothing. From the pot it goes to the first tension adjustment. You realize I will be drubbed out of the Cobra Clan if I start adjusting that much on the thread tension, right? So the tension adjustment on the left is to a minimum and the top is adjusted to when the lockstitch becomes a lockstitch. I am using 277 top and bottom. A 24 or a 25 needle? Thank you

I have watched the Bianchi videos a number of times, but last night I noticed something. I am aware he was using a Ferdco at that time. However, a number of times, he raised the foot and with the hoster, pulled some thread free from the machine. I have a very decent looking stitch and the adjustments are not much off from when I received the machine. After dwelling on that, I realized my top thread is so tight that I could easily cut my fingers if I slipped. And, sometimes, the thread pulls easily. When I stop sewing, I put the thread take up arm in its top position, raise the foot, reach and pull some thread on this side of the TT arm, pull the leather to me and cut the thread. Ain't no way I could do what Bianchi did. What gives?

Did you check the needle? Sounds like you have it turned 180 wrong.

I bought the same pot as BillyMac. I use liquid saddle soap (contains glycerin) and I do not have any more skipped stitches. I purposely sew a little slow. No deadlines. The thread goes into the pot at the point where the roll of thread sits. Inside the pot there is a post on the bottom with a hole to keep the thread submerged, comes out of the little hole on the other end, goes through the black spring on top and on to the normal places. Almost no friction or stress is put on the thread.

Watch the John Bianchi tapes and you will hear him say to use 8/9 for the outer and a 6/7 for the lining for a holster. He uses the same items for the construction of a buscadero belt. The period correct holsters are usually unlined and they use 8/9 to 10/12. I have used 8/9 and 4/5 and this makes a rugged holster. Once glued, sewn, and moulded, you have one strong holster. I would buy half shoulders until you get the construction you need.

Looking around and found the post. Do you apply neatsfoot, dye, then sew?

Folks I apologize. I meant to type feet instead of yards. Nothing like a newbie. Cyberthrasher, then the "bargain" at $6.00 sq/ft is not such a bargain. Their "premium" leather", at a little over $6.00, seems to be super smooth, and from the eyes of a beginner, seems to be free from blemishes. Gaining a little experience with my Cobra 4, the leather sews well, does not seem to be dry, and does not crack or split when rolled. How does one determine the "goodness" of a piece of leather? I mean, do you simply ask where was the leather tanned? Apparently there are a number of tanneries in Mexico.

I would like to know about the different leathers. On some sites I see different grades such as "A" grade. Other places I read there all kind of grades and it depends what I am reading at the time. I buy at Zack White. The store is about an 30 minutes away. I buy their double shoulder veg tanned. The last one was an 8-10 oz for $5.95/sq yard. The computer receipt says "8/10 oz import double shoulder Mexico". Their ad reads that the hides are from US cattle and tanned in New Mexico. They also have a Premium Grade around $6.25/sq yard. Smooth flesh side. Please pitch in and let me know what you buy.

With the Cobra 4, I stitch two, back one, and continue forward. Very strong.