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farmersracer

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About farmersracer

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    Member

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  • Website URL
    http://www.farmersracer.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sweden
  • Interests
    Leather, waxed cotton and motorcycles

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Packbags

Recent Profile Visitors

1,927 profile views
  1. Hello Slott and bushing oiled - still friction sound as in the videos. Will a 31 be silent in the machine head? Or does it always make these sounds more or less? Does anyone know... The clicking is from the hook.
  2. Thanks kgg The bushing is fully oiled in the films. Bright as a mirror and shiny. I can spot a small edge in the slot where the bushing is running. I think I will try to make a small bevel at the end of the roller. In that way it will not make contact with the edge in the corner. The slot is polished and the roller is turning freely when the machine is running. I can not see any other area where the sound might come from. Any idéas?
  3. Hello all:) Just started to restore a singer 31-32 for some leather work. I have noticed a small friction noice from the needle bar roller bushing. Is this ok? This is my first experience with a singer 31, so I don't really know how silent the machine can be. I have made two films. One with the roller bushing, and one with the bushing removed. With the bushing removed the head of the machine is almost totally quiet. Any idéas on how to fix this - or is this not a problem at all? I can live with the sound if the machine can take it. Thankyou.
  4. Hello all Does any one know where I can find a good zipper presser foot for a Durkopp 239? Seems hard to find for these old machines on the web. All the feet I find is for newer Durkopp/Adler machines. Are there any other durkopp numbers or brands (like Juki) fitting this machine? Thanks
  5. Hi All There are many companies out there claiming the invention of tin-cloth or waxed canvas:) What I have heard is that the origin is cotton canvas soaked in pure linseed oil. After a few weeks of oxidation the oil will dry and the textile is water proof. The downside is that the clothes also become stiff as cardboard. Eventually sailors and forest workers added fat and waxes, to make the original linseed recipe more comfortable. The recipe I see in posts above are all wet waxes. They will in most cases create a oily surface to the cloth, and the ingredients are quite difficult to mix. In addition to this, a wet wax will melt during the summer time if you leave your cloth in the sun. There is a simpler way to make cotton water resistant. A Swedish company, Fjallraven, has invented a dry wax with only two ingredients. It is called GrenlandWax. It is hard as a brick, and is applied by rubbing the cloth with a GreenlandWax block, and heating the surface with an iron or hair dryer. The recipe has been known for decades in Sweden: 100g parafin 10g beeswax That is all. Add a few layers of this and the cloth will be water resistant. If you are aiming on water proof - use the wet waxes, and apply with a brush.
  6. Great to hear I use moo.com They have really good paper options. And if you upload your own pics you can order 100 cards with 100 different pictures. One on each card:) This makes it possible to make very small batches for special products. I use mini cards: https://www.moo.com/eu/products/minicards.html And post cards: https://www.moo.com/eu/products/postcards.html
  7. Hi Brian My tip is to use a box that will bring the leather goods to your customer in a safe way. If you want to add value to the experience of the unpacking and first impression: Make a nice tag. It is a lot cheaper than custom boxes, and add a lot of quality for a small cost. I make bags and have two tags in form of custom made postcards. Small items can be taged with business cards. One can tell a long story with a picture and some text.
  8. Thanks Mjolnir Hope my english is understandable - pictures are an easier way to cross language barriers:)
  9. Hi bikermutt07 Sadly it is a fake:) Kawasaki w650 with a lot of triumph parts. Thanks for the compliments and your frequent activity on this forum!
  10. Hi all Just read all about your inspiring workshops. Went out to my cabin, and as soon as I entered I started laughing. I definitely don't have as many useful crafting tools as I can see in your great workshop. It looks as I spent all my tool money on furniture and interiors - feel like a leather-worker-wannabe. I need MORE TOOLS:) Keep posting workshops please - it is great to see them all.
  11. Hi Stetson912 You can find the tannery on this link: https://tarnsjogarveri.com/wip/en/ Some qualities hav a 600ft minimum order because they are not in stock. All the rest is free to order full hides. You need to contact the sellers to get a prize list. Please do - they are great to work with.
  12. Hej ByNelson You are perfectly right. They have no web shop for the leather. You need to contact their sales manegers to order and get a stocklist. https://tarnsjogarveri.com/wip/en/contact/garveri/
  13. Thanks ByNelson Yes I buy directly from Tärnsjö Tannery. They are really good to work with. They have no minimum order and good support.
  14. Thanks YinTx Sadly the burnish is spreading from the edge to the surface of the leather in an uneven pattern. This is one of the reason I only use wax on the edges. I might try heating the edges on some models in the future.
  15. Hello A6C507 The maps are installed before sewing the parts together. Special tools for these snaps of course. No moving parts in the chrome studs, so I don't thing they ever need replacement. Scovill.com have got studs with thread mounting though, but they will take up too much room inside the bag.
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