cgleathercraft

These have been sold.

Use a resist, like super sheen, before dying. It't tedious but works well. or block dye wrapping cloth around a block and using very small amount of dye. Takes practice...lots of practice. I don't do it enough to do this method.

In case anyone is wondering 18cm is just a dash over 7 inches. based on the first two images i'd say the "non-stitched edges" are actually just painted with edge paint to give the illusion of two pieces joined. As for the stitching. Very sharp awls with a small needle and VERY careful hands along with lots of time and patience. EXCELLENT work. love to see more.

Well I'd just make my own Someone had to say it! lol All joking aside I think your dead on. Replace leather with any other product and it works out the same there as well.

Could try sweating it out by putting them in your vehicle wrapped up in towels or newspaper.

Its where I always start - mark what I'm not interested in as read and read the rest till nothing is left. Every once in a while I have to close my browser (chrome) to get everything to work right. I have several add-ons so they could be messing with it. Try Chrome or Firefox if your not already. They seem to stay up to date with the latest and greatest when it comes to web tech along with keeping compatibility for sites that haven't been updated in a while.

Remove all warning labels and let nature sort itself out. In my 3 years as a mechanic in high school/college. I've seen some interesting stuff pulled trying to get out of charges or get something for free. Sometimes it was such a nominal amount that we allowed it. ( 2 min fixes with a code reader or a shot of grease ). Other times were different. Customer tries to register "blemished" (cosmetically not functionally) tires with the manufacturer for the warranty when they knew it wouldn't work and wanted their money back after driving for a couple months and not giving back the tires. Which we wouldn't have taken anyway since they were special order odd size tires that we'd never be able sell again.

To help offset some less than desirable stamp maker from duplicating the stamp - A public list of approved Stamp Makers and approved Master Leather Crafters should be made easily available so anyone can fact check before making a purchase. Educating the consumer would be the next step. I would also be interested in making it to that level. Though it would take considerable time!

I got one as well, Asking about conchos that I had for sale...I've never sold conchos. I didn't bother responding.

Reviving this old thread I just recently got the stitcher up and working without much of an issue. Actually reading the manual helped 10x more than playing around (who would have thought lol). Tiny little adjustments make all the difference in the world - a quarter turn on the awl and what seemed like nothing actually lined it up with the needle perfectly. It was out of adjustment just a little when I got it so just going with what it was originally was not a good idea. Almost bent an $8 needle. I received needles/awls/thread from Panhandle Leather. I am using neatsfoot oil in the wax pot (read that its used in place of thread wax/lubricant in several other places). The clutch was frozen but came loose with a tiny bit of oil on the drive shaft and and a gentle nudge with a screwdriver. It now spins freely except when engaged. The belt was just a little stretched and could probably do with being replaced. I shortened it up by about an inch and made a new metal staple from the wire on a wool dauber. It could probably be shortened by another 1/4 inch but I'm not entirely certain I want to go any shorter yet. In the few test runs i've sewn as little as 8oz up to 20oz and it handled both equally well without adjustment which surprised me quite a bit. Since i have found very little information on this machine I plan to document what I've done and put it on my website with pictures and detailed explanations.

It certainly can be done by using an airbrush. But by the picture it appears as though it is block dyed waiting for it to dry between each color. There are some videos showing how to do this on youtube. Why do I think block dyed? in the cuts and tooling the dye does not appear to "go" down in them. Airbrushing would get full coverage into the cuts and tooling. block dying will only get in a little bit. Should be able to do this with most dyes/stains with practice.

I've seen both on several posts. I think it's personal preference. Make a small batch of both and see what works best for the desired result. I made some from a recipe on youtube. 16 oz beeswax 8oz boiled linseed oil 8oz turpentine. Its harder than I expected. it's sitting in a pot till I find a use for it. Plus some people don't like the use of turpentine. If I don't like it as a finish/sealer i'll mix it with some wood shavings and dryer lint and make fire starter blocks with it.

I've seen tons of pallet racking at auctions lately. Now i'm kicking myself for not picking up a couple sections. It sells cheap because no one wants it so it usually goes to the scrappers.

Eventually it will start to rust in a leather sheath no matter what you do. You can slow it down by using finishes and oiling the blade frequently. I lined one sheath with Kydex because the knife was like a razor blade and would slice leather if put in at just slightly the wrong angle. What I would do - heat a pot of wax deep enough to dip the holster in and leave it till the bubbles slow down. It will make the sheath stuff and help with the moisture content in the leather. The blade would still get some rust eventually. Cheapest and easiest option - don't store the knife in the sheath. But that doesn't work for everyone either lol.

Sure does - I'll keep an eye out for one at auctions and flea markets! If all else fails my soon to be brother in law is a full-time welder. i'm sure he could whip something up that would work just as well.

I've wondered if they would hold up to the pressure of clicking. What do you click with them? Would they work well for holsters/wallets/checkbooks and such?

I am at a loss for words that anyone would ever think that is a good idea.....

lol when I go camping a beer is never too far away. And with all the horses around the amount of tack that (potentially) could need some work is pretty astounding. We have reserved 6 spaces (3 campers 3 tents) and there will be plenty of family around along with all the horses. I don't plan on tooling but the more I think about it I may want to pack along some basic tools to do a little work on small items if someone wants it. Also see that the campgrounds is filling up quickly so If I'm lucky I'll get some orders while I'm there.

I got these two: Die Set for Ring Snaps 20 Ligne/12.5mm (1/2") Die Set for Ring Snaps 24 Ligne/15mm (5/8") So far I've had good luck with snaps from Tandy and Springfield with them.

So i'm going camping in a couple weeks. Were only going over the weekend but would like some small projects to occupy my time. I'm planning on making a new sheath for my hatchet, a couple knife sheaths, and a beer mug (sealed with beeswax). Any other ideas? Requirements - Handstitched with minimal rivets/snaps sealed or finished with wax no tooling no dyes or finishes (other than beeswax & oil) using hand tools only (no sewing machines/sanders/buffers)

Don't put your mark on it if it's not up to your quality standards! Mark it as blemished or second grade and sell for a discount or make a trade - that case of beer mentioned above is always a good trade.

Here is what I have. use it for line 20/24 snaps and 10mm rivets. I will use it for more when I have a need and buy the dies. I bought the package deal - setter with 3 dies (that you get to pick).

I've used em for making sure the punch is the correct size for a rivet. Also buffer pieces to prevent clamp marks on pieces that need held after applying glue. Heck I've even wrote measurements on them when a piece of paper is farther away.

Take everything in my post with a grain of salt as I'm just jumping into holster making myself. I agree with about 90% of what has been said already. Keep up with newly released firearms, buy blueguns for popular firearms and so on. Here's where I veer off just a touch - when someone asks for that oddball holster don't immediately push them away. If they are a store owner or collector they could potentially send you lots of work. I recently took on a job for a Ruger P90 for a local store owner. I'm not sure how popular this particular mold is so I may not make another holster for it. He did say he'd send anyone my way that was looking for a leather holster. Indirectly I'll turn a profit on it. It's a risk. I know. but it's a calculated risk.

Don't load the brush with so much glue (if possible i know some pots it's hard to control). Going back to the pot 3 or 4 times is less of a headache then glue where it shouldn't be.