midwestislander

Very clean design, nicely doneI liked the way the flap design integrate with the straps..

I have used pigskin for wallet pockets and exterior of credit card holders. The pigskin I have gotten are thin and works well in multi-layer applications. I have used it backed with 1.5-2 oz veg tanned calf.

Welcome. You definitely will find a reference point. There is a wealth of knowledge and skills that are available and willing to help. Just remember if you post something, that most of the members are busy with projects, businesses or other facets of their lives for an instant reply. They are a great bunch of people.

looks good!

pretty nice for being "whipped up the other day"

No, not too thin, good quality leather will withstand use...(abuse? depending if you are talking about hard use or dropping it in a shredder). your choice of type of leather has as much to do with that.

Welcome salty. you've come to the right place. Look through the "How do I do that" section, and the wallet subsection further down on the list. When you follow a link, at the end of the thread, scroll to the bottom and you will see a "related subjects" sections that will lead you to more posts about a (wait for it...) related post that others have questions about. Another good place to look at is the "critique my work" forum, where people (if they want) can get feedback about pieces they have done in order to improve. you will find answers to questions you didn't even know to ask about relating to what leather weights to use, dying, stitching, edging, finishing, etc. Good luck and enjoy, and be prepared to get lost in a search for perfection!

Yes, veg tan.

Don't know if you are still interested in 1-1/2 to 2 oz leather, but I order 1-1/2 calf from Garlin-Neuman leather (603-595-6319) A side cost less than $50 between 10-12 sq ft. Very nice, I use it for wallet pockets and interiors.The thinness makes it a lot easier to sew, dyes nicely and feels rich. I also use pig (and kangaroo when I can get the bundles from Springfield Leather), but I prefer the 1-1/2 calf from Garlin-Neuman.

What a bag! nice.

Really cool stuff. I like the different design innovations that you have done in blending leather and hardware. excellent.

Great read for the craftsman.

It looks to me like you use a soft, stretchy leather. If you don't go to a firmer leather, what I would do/have done is to apply clear packing tape (like used for sealing boxes to ship) or cheap self-stick shelf paper (doesn't stick as tenaciously - good thing in this case) to the back of the strips when you cut. The other thing I would do is to use a round end at the end of you insert cut. Like use a punch at the point o your cutout, then start your long cut from there. do you stitch around the insert?

I did notice that when the alcohol flashed off the Fiebings. so often I will use a light coat of neatsfoot or bee natural oil and let sit before dying. I also use fieblings carauba crème at the end of the project.

I Agree with all of the above. There are mistakes that are "acceptable", on a piece, but not up to the quality that we are striving for. The difference is what level you accept. Finish the piece, strive for perfection on the next. That appears to be in the middle of the piece so is not as apparent.

Looks really nice. Brain tanning your own leather gives you a greater connection to your work, doesn't it? Start to finish kind of thing.

Samar, you are amazing. I third the video/youtube idea!

Dye first. Dry well. Think the mink oil is interfering with the dye penetrating evenly. When I wet formed-then dye, sometimes I would have areas that seemed to slick/burnish and the dye didn't penetrate as well either. This happened when I was "enthusiastically forming for a more detailed/tighter fit.

If Dwight says it's Okay, then it's okay. very nice. No shame, no fear. it's about the end-user.

Nice job. Like the burgundy reinforcement

THAT is absolutely beautiful!

A good place to start looking is the Getting Started Forum. Soooo informative. I just saw a few replies from members in UK that gave a link to a leather supplier. good luck.

Welcome to the most informative place I have found. You may try "searching" (upper right corner of the page). notice you can search in a particular forum or "all" forums. I have seen many listings for armguards as I have been browsing through various forums. Also notice that in the list of forums are different subspecialty areas. Browsing in the appropriate one may give you many tips and ideas, as it has for me. I notice that there are many members from areas of Europe and in the UK. As you browse comments, check the brief profile to the left of the text box, as most often they have given their location. I mention this because As I am in the US, I am not able to help you with suppliers. As to tools, etc, browse the forum topics or do a search. I have learned much both about tool quality and brands. The philosophy I have used in tools is if you are starting out, buy a small less expensive starter set, you will learn what will need upgrading as you go along. Some you will find adequate for as long as you do this. If you are looking at a tool or equipment which costs a lot, buy the best (often more expensive) as it will do better in the long run. Check the suppliers forum which may help you find leather suppliers in the UK. One last thing, The people in this forum are the nicest and most helpful you will find. Many have their own leather business's and so are busy and may not be able to give you an "instant" response, Others have a "real" job and this is their passion/hobby and may not have the time to be on the forum for long periods of time.

I have successfully used a soft pencil eraser to work the glue off, not pressing too hard to mark the grain. Work from the edge of the "smudge" in towards the middle, or if on the edge of a piece, work it to the edge of the piece until you can pick it off.

really like your traditional Japanese design on the Japanese style wallet