Colt W Knight

More about the machine itself 1) This was the last configuration of the model 66 before being discontnued. 2) It was made 1954-1955 3) Relatively small motor 4) Not nearly as ornate as earlier models 5) Has a reverse sew feature Original Motor Original foot switch/knee lever Here is the plain foot Reverse lever

I think it is fair to say that most of us would like to have a really nice industrial walking foot sewing machine for our leather craft. However, most of probably can't afford one or justify the cost for our hobby. I have been doing to some hobby leather work for a few years, and I finally decided I wanted to "up my game" and do a little more with my hobby like sewing on backings/liners and burnishing the edges nicer. That's easy, right? Buy a leather burnishing tool, and sew on some backings. What I found out is that hand stitching something as a large as a guitar strap or rifle sling SUCKS! After doing a lot of hand stitching, I decided to get a machine, but alas, I couldn't find a reasonably priced used industrial walking foot sewing machine. While this thread isn't intended to sway folks from a real machine, I just wanted to show what was possible with an inexpensive old Singer. First, I researched for a while to see what old Singer machines were suitable for light duty leather sewing. Seams there were lots of candidates, but the on most available with the easiest to find parts was the Singer 66. Here is a link explaining the history of the Singer 66 http://www.sewalot.com/singer%2066.htm I checked eBay and the local classifieds. Singer 66s were relatively inexpensive, and I saw a lot of youtube videos where folks were sewing lighter leather with Singer 66s. I decided to pick up this gem off a local classified add for 120$. 120$ seamed like a good deal because it was in 100% working order, came with a cabinet, working light, knee lever, and a drawer full of extras. What I have here is number 65 cabinet "This modern sewing cabinet and spacious writing desk has three drawers large enough to hold a complete selection of sewing supplies as well as correspondence and stationery." Example of sewing this is about 7 ounce leather.

Glue and stitch. If the glue fails, you have stitches, if the stitches wear, you have glue.

The amount stitching required to fit three large piece of leather together FAR exceeds the cost of a piece of leather big enough to make a 1 piece case. I would use ~8 leather for a rifle case. Here is picture thread I did about making my M4 case http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=50568

Liner is wool felt. Polyester felt fuzzes up and isnt real durable. The wool felt is a lot more expensive, but its cheaper than seude. I like felt on long projects because leather long enough for straps is super expensive. Right now I can sew two pieces of 7 ounce veg tan leather together. The new motor arrives today, and im curious how thick ill be able to go.

I use to get all of our horse tack out of yhr barn and give it a good oiling every year. One time I thought I'd get off cheap and use vegatable oil, and that stuff did go bad. It took me forever to scrub all the mold and crud growing on the bridles and halters off. Never had that problem with extra virgin olive oil. Another reason I would soak new reins in olive oil is because it would soften them up. They came very stiff like veg tan leather.

I think you need a #18 needle for 69 thread and a #20 needle for 92 thread, but I am not a sewing machine expert by any means. Here is a PDF of the manual for that machine http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/95-10.pdf

Not too long ago, I finished refurbishing my old sporterized mauser http://www.texashuntingforum.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4930427/1 I have also been getting more into my leather craft hobby. Just bought an old Singer sewing machine to start machine stitching some guitar straps and rifle slings. It was made in 1954. Still working on setting up and using the machine, but it has some serious potential for these lighter projects. Right now the motor is underpowered but I have a lot bigger one ordered. Decided to make a sling for my nice upgraded rifle Wool lined Hoping to take this gun Elk hunting in Arizona later this year, so it has an Arizona flag and my initials. I am happy with it

Should work just fine. Those old Singers don't have a lot of features, but they sure were tough.

I have a Singer 66 that I use to sew light weight leather. Wizcrafts is pretty spot on. Right now I am sewing with #18 and #16 leather needles, a controlled feed foot( walking foot attachment) and a some nylon upholstery thread. The motor is not strong enough to sew by itself. I have to start my thread by hand, and help the treadle along. This really isn't that big on an inconvenience though. It is till better than hand stitching. In fact, I could run my machine strictly by hand, and it would be quicker and easier than hand sewing. Needles last a long time if you sew straight lines. Sewing curved lines, or trying to turn the work piece while the motor is going almost always breaks the needle. It will sew a 6-7 oz piece of leather to a light liner or heavy felt with no problem. Sewing two pieces of 6 oz leather together is a struggle. I have ordered a more powerful motor for this machine. I'll give a report when I have it fixed up like I like it.

With the help of my new sewing machine, I finished sewing the felt on my strap Learning to use the sewing machine is going to be a trick. Its super quick, and really easy to get the stitching crooked.

Straps # 1 & 2 made it to their new homes

Thanks guys. I am learning a lot on this forum.

I agree about all the sharpening mojo/mysticism out there. I think it is becoming a lost art for most folks. When I was a kid, my dad gave me a dull pocket knife so I would learn how to take care of one without cutting myself. What did I do? I went down to the creek and found a flat stone and sharpened my little pocket knife. When I showed my dad, he took it away, and I didn't get another one till I was about 11-12. He showed me how to use his norton stone once, and I spent a lot of time sharpening every knife I could get my hands on. I even sharpened friends and family knives. Once I got the hang of it, I was able to sharpen a knife fairly quickly and effectively with just a simple two sided worn out norton stone. When I was 16, a gentleman at my family's horse stable gave me a brand new long double sided norton stone for always sharpening his knife. I really thought I was something using an actual flat stone to sharpen a knife. I was so obsessed with sharp knives for while, I carried a HPS bulb filament in my pocket to constantly dress my pocket knives.I still keep my knives sharp, but I got burned out sharpening things. I just do it know when I have to, and I don't volunteer to sharpen stuff for other anymore. I understand the principle of the convex/concave edge thing, but once the knife is dull, I would think sharpening a convex edge would be a royal PITA. I would probably end up working it into a normal flat edge.

There will be a sewing machine in my future. I can't take this hand stitching 100" +. The skin is wearing off my index fingers. Strap # 1 Strap # 2 Really liking my new makers mark Here is one for myself My tooling still isn't up to snuff, but I am getting better every time I try.

I use a small scrap of leather instead of blue jeans/canvas and gives a nice finish as well. I am going to have to try the blue jean/canvas and see how it compares to my leather scrap. I recently ordered a cocobolo burnisher, and I can't wait to try that out.

I use the Fibiengs saddle soap in a can. Dip a rag in water, then rub it over the can soap, and wipe it on my edges. I use to buy saddle soap in the bar to clean saddles, but never used it for burnishing.

Been using extra virgin olive oil on horse tack and my leather projects for at least 15 years. Never even heard of it going rancid until someone brought it up on an internet forum not to long ago. We use to by tan horse bridles and saddles, dunk them in olive oil, and hang them in the sun. Depending on how long you let the olive oil soak, we could turn it from light carmel color to almost black. ( A lot of time we could find tan tack cheaper, or they didn't have what we wanted in black - a local tack salesman told us about the olive oil. He was in the tack business for 40 years) The U.S. Cavalry use to use a olive oil mixed with castor oil on their saddles.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

I broke down and bough a set of for DiaSharp stones, Ex coarse, coarse, fine and extra fine. I really bought these to level and dress frets on a guitar. before that I used a double sided norton stone. I can sharpen a knife just as sharp on a norton stone as I can my DMT diasharps. My dad had his Norton stone for 20-30 years before I bought him a new one to replace it. If those nortons gets wavy, you dress them back sharp again. Diamond stones are great, but I don't see the need for the expense unless you are sharpening a lot stuff. Good things. 1. Fast and precise 2. They don't groove like a stone 3. Heavy - so they don't move around bad things. 1. They are heavy, so it hurts my wrist when I try to hold the stone in my hand and shapen 2. expensive 3. I had a carrying case made for my stones, and they stayed in my truck for a long time. I wore off some of the diamonds in a few spots were they rubbed in the case. If you use them enough to sharpen, the diamonds will wear off. DMT makes that super clear on their website. * I also finish my edges with a ceramic steel after honing the edge on my stones. For a long time, I use a burned out High Pressure Sodium bulb filament from some very expensive lights used on strip mining equipment.

Nice. Makes me want to build a briefcase.

Brenda was great to deal with, and her stamps are AFFORDABLE. I contacted her Sunday, and I had my stamp Wednesday. Amazing turn around time. Plus they are made Texas. This is my first Official leather project

Well... hanging out on this forum made me realize I needed to step my game up from making simple guitar straps like this to something more respectable. I am still learning, but I think my straps are progressing well. My tooling still needs work, but I learn something every time I make something new.