Colt W Knight

I was impressed when I saw you included the steel as well. Love that scene where he has that guy hanging up side down, and he is sharpening his knife. Then he slowly starts cutting the individual strands of rope. I use to make knives when I was a teenager, and I remember how much work it was to make a nice knife, and I never even got close to your level.

That is as nice as I have ever seen. Well done.

I just heard the young man just got out of a major surgery for his caner, but his uncle is planning on giving him a Build Log book full of picture tomorrow. He will have to wait til he can leave the hospital before getting his rifle.

The University of Arizona's ranch is located near Prescott. If I can find an excuse to go up to the ranch, I would like to check out that show.

I have been wanting a makers mark stamp for a while now, and saw this web site one the forum. http://www.lasergiftcreations.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=20&products_id=110 Prices seemed reasonable, so I pulled the trigger. I build guitars, and that is my logo for my guitars. Thought I would carry it over to my leather work. When I get my stamp, I'll post an update.

I build electric guitars. I am not a very good player, but I do pick around on banjo and guitar.

Ive got one of these that will take a utility knife blade. When it gets dull, I move the blade, and when its dull, I put a new one in.

I bought a big package of sewing needles at Tandy, and they all broke within short order. I went back to Tandy and told the manager they were POS, and I that I specifically asked him for good needles. He then handed me a package of harness needles. These work great. I have sewed numerous projects, and haven't broke one yet.

Super nice lacing and zipper work.

I grew up around South Charleston.

I live in the desert now(Tucson, AZ), and I have found that leather holds up much better here than it did when I lived in West Virginia. I think it has to do with steady climate instead of all the humidity and temp swings. I have used a variety of commonly available leather conditioners/oils since moving down here, and they have all worked just fine. I know what you mean about the paste stuff. I have to take a tooth brush to carved leather if I use a colored or pasty product.

Yeah, that shearling was expensive. I think it was 80$. If I make another, I am going to try to use cotton badding/matting like they sell at the fabric store for making quilts. Then use either some pig or lambskin to do the lining. I know a few guys who use Flannel.

When I made my gun case I used shearling as a liner. I glued it to the leather using DAP contact cement. I glued everything except for 2 inches around the perimeter. Then I sandwiched the zipper between the leather and the shearling I really like how it turned out, and I think I learned a lot in the process. The next one I make I will have a better idea on how to get the aesthetics right.

I like the chape, it is different. The leather and lines are all clean.

I would think you want to use some serious magnets like those used to hold cabinet drawers or jewelry boxes together. I use to use them in my wood working to hold heavy wooden box lids together. You can get them in the size of dimes and quarters.

Modge Podge is big in the arts and crafts world. I used it to glue this felt down to a leather binder I made. It has held strong for over a year now. Never tried burnishing with it. I am fairly new to real leather work, and I have only burnished a few projects so far.

Love cowboy rigs. Cool, this is in the Cowboy Museum in OKC ( unfortunately, I didn't get a close up of the gun belt, but you can see it in the back.

The W part looks great.

Over on the Texas Hunting Forum, a member started selling custom AK-47 bolt knobs to pay for a custom built 10/22 for his nephew who had to spend the holidays in the hospital undergoing cancer treatment. The forum members over there really pulled together and started donating parts and etc. I can't afford to buy expensive rifle parts, but I offered to make a rifle sling. To be honest, I have never made a rifle sling, and this is only about my 4th attempt at tooling, and first attempt at actually carving a figure and not just doing something simple. The young man's dad is from Guatemala, and his mother from Texas.

Harbor Freight sells a pretty nice oak work bench with a solid wood top, side vice, and drawers. I actually have two of these benches. They work good for cutting leather because they have a solid wood top, fairly long, and have plenty of storage.

I have the 1/2" version with the straight blade. Works great, I plan on picking up the 3/8" version with the smaller angled blade while they are on sale this month. The blade in mine was actually pretty nice. It came sharp enough to use out of the box, and requires very little stropping to keep in sharp. The bearings are smooth, and I like the weight of the knife. Makes carving straight lines easy.

I would like to build myself a leather tooling table. I am interested in creating a tooling station that is as "silent" as can be expected while tooling leather. I have tested various tables, counter, cushions, anvils, and pads, so I know I can deaden a lot of sound just by making a table specifically for leather tooling. Do any of you all have any tips or suggestions? I was thinking about making a thick solid wood top with stout legs. Adding some vibration deadening mat to the underside of the table. What would be the best material to place between the table top and the granite tooling slab?

Ill try the anti rippage hole.

Thanks Cheryl

This one? http://www.epsaddlery.com/pc-47-18-doc-holiday-holster.aspx