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I came across this site http://www.polkaproducts.com/content/page.asp?id=104 and was just wondering if anyone here has done it. Looks kind of interesting I guess the leather has to be sealed with something first otherwise the ink would stain the leather when wiping down. Another example from another artist is here http://www.notcot.org/post/15223/ Cheers, Clair

In the latest catalogue they have upgraded it to 12 ton. I'd be interested to know how you go with it, my shop press might be a little large to fit in my new shed and something that fits on a small heavy duty table might be ideal. I would think it should be fine with Weaver as you are running a business in the catalogue they do ask if the shipping address is your home address. Cheers, Clair

Decided to go with a Weaver as I think it's going to be more suitable for what I do. Cheers, Clair

I bought a crap one from the hardware store and are now wanting to get something decent, the 8mm will be one of my main punches so I don't mind paying more. Have any of the Aussies used one of the Boker ones from Leffler I'm not sure as they still seem kind of cheap. Would a Dixon or an Osborne from overseas be a better bet. Thankyou for any help Cheers, Clair

I've given up trying to find a smaller splitter on ebay after losing out on the last 4 by 30 damn seconds. So I'm biting the bullet and was just wondering if anyone has used both the Artisan and Weaver splitters as I'm trying to decide between the two. There both priced around the same, and will also cost about the same to ship. The Artisan has to come by sea though which means possibly a 2 month wait before I get it to Australia. Size wise the Weaver is probably better as I will need to do some juggling to get the Artisan to fit in the shed I will be working from but I don't need any other machinery so it may not be a really big problem if I can put up plenty of shelving on the walls (still need to hear back from the shed maker regarding what bracing is used on the walls). The extra size of the Artisan appeals though. So for anyone who has used both or one of them I would love to know your opinions. I also need to know what the service is like from each company, I don't expect to have to many problems but would like to know that I'm not going to get fobbed off because I'm in Australia if I do run into any. Thankyou for any help Cheers, Clair

That's really nice I love that clean uncluttered look you are going with. Cheers, Clair

Where did you get it from if it's from where I think it's from it should carve and dye fine, I had a similiar looking hide and didn't have any problems with it. If you want to start using top notch stuff Toowoomba Saddlery www.ozsaddle.com carry Hermann Oak. I haven't ordered any yet but a saddlemaker my sister knows orders all his Hermann Oak from there.

The majority of the time I would agree with you but a couple of weeks ago a CBS financial reporter got wind off the Australian governments planned camel cull up north and got in a flap about it, why because the meat would be wasted. Now these camels aren't native to Australia, they destroy habitat, take food away from the native animals & breed like rabbits (there are literally thousands of them). I wouldn't touch the meat why because they are full of ticks and have god knows what other diseases. Yet this financial reporter failed to research this properly and decided instead to call our Prime Minister a serial killer. Most Australians will agree he's a bit of a dick but serial killer cmon, it's ridding the habitat of a species that has no place being there. Would you really want to take a chance on the meat knowing that it could be infected with something. I don't think I could eat horse meat unless I was hungry enough as I don't see them as a food source but I don't have anything against anyone who does.

Finally got to the store across town today and they did have the Z999L and Z999R, the L isn't quite as nicely finished as the R but it still gives a nice impression. The finish is the same as the ones my sister gave me so I guess they are from the early 80's. So I'm just on the look out for the Z998 now, this one does seem to come up on ebay alot more so hopefully I won't have to wait to long to complete the set. Cheers, Clair

Hi bluebeard, you sent me a pm but my computer chucked a sad when I went to post it and I'm not sure if it sent the complete message. Anyhow if your also looking for suppliers of Spirit dye in Oz these places should be able to help. Birdsall Leather http://www.birdsall-leather.com.au/ (NSW) make their own I use these not enough colours for what I want though Crispin leather http://www.crispinleather.com.au/ (QLD) I think they make their own as well, Rod Stanger from Leatherwood uses these Leffler Leather http://www.leffler.com.au/ (VIC) Sells Raven Oil Toowoomba Saddlery http://www.ozsaddle.com/ (QLD) Sells Raven Oil These are the main places I know of I also at times make my own from Rit Clothes Dye and Metholated spirits (original idea from Rod Stanger mainly for making blues and purples which are difficult to get here). here are the threads to check out regarding that process. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...pic=3924&hl http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...pic=1423&hl http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...pic=6864&hl Hope this is of some help Cheers, Clair

What a cool looking machine my shop press looks even more plain and boring now.

Thats coming along really nice.

Definately have to agree there thats some mighty fine work I was wondering about the tools as well haven't seen black ones before

If your using other peoples guns to make the mold I wouldn't use plaster of paris or anything else hard because if you haven't made molds before it's very possible that you won't get the parting lines correct or undercut on a one piece mold and the gun will get locked in. It will be no fun to try and dig out a gun from a plaster mold and your likely to damage the gun trying to get it out. Usually the rule is for soft originals eg a plasticine sculpture use a hard mold (plaster) and for a hard original (gun) use a soft mold (silicone, latex) with a hard backing to save on costs (plaster, fibreglass). The Smooth On website has video tutorials that will show you how to make all the different molds and I think there was examples of people making gun props for movies.

I've used this but it's a bit hit and miss in Australia whether it works or not so I gave up on it. You guys in America seem to have alot better selection than us.

To some people though it isn't, they think they can copy everything I will probably share some patterns here that I have come up with as I think they will be of use to some members here but they will be plain. I see patterns as the actual leather dimensions to make something but Hidepounder sees patterns as the tooling designs so there are differences in what terms mean to different people as well. Tina from what I have seen you post you have just put the c symbol for full copyright you need your name and year created, for countries that are part of the Berne Convention and if Sweden is you don't need to do anything more than that. The differences between countries using the Berne convention are more to do with when the artwork lapses into public domain. All the stuff with registering copyright in the US came when the American congress tried to get the Orphan works bill passed as far as I know it hasn't and I'm not sure what it meant for international artists anyway. Those interested in copyright should read the link Crystal posted it explains everything really well and if you want to see what some people and companies try to get away with in regards to commercial endevours check this site out www.youthoughtwewouldntnotice.com really makes you wonder about some people. Cheers, Clair

The mailing to yourself thing has always amused me and I'm still bewildered that people still think it's a viable way to copyright (it came up recently on another forum I visit). This method has a flaw that some people just can't seem to grasp ie you can send yourself an empty non stuck down envelope and put the drawings etc in afterwards. You always need to check what your country does in regard to copyright in Australia you don't need to lodge anywhere copyright is automatic to the creator as long as the rights haven't been sold and the artwork carries the c symbol, persons name and year created. In regards to the original poster always check first like others have said some are fine with it others are not, I haven't posted any of my work here yet because I want to get my website up first and that is taking alot longer than I hoped due to my day job. But I will probably be one of the nots, not because I don't want to but because I am doing original artwork for customers that are paying for just that. Clair

Yep that would be a great help Dustin, I'm trying a leather shop across town next week they don't have a high turnover of tools and had a full rack of stamps last time I there so they may on the off chance have them. If they don't though a clear picture would definately help in trying to make my own, I do 3D computer modelling and should be able to model them fairly easily if I can get the measurements. Cheers, Clair

Thanks for the info Roger I'll give them a buzz. Cheers, Clair

Thankyou for the offer Rick, I'm just not sure about you shipping them to Australia though. I've always got my mail when I've ordered from the US but I would hate for these to get lost when they can't be replaced easy. If nothing comes up any chance you could take a photo of them straight down and a side angle with written measurements that way I've got something better to go off. Cheers, Clair

How horrible for the donkeys how could anyone think it's safe to go out late without lights on a wagon is beyond me especially when they are competing for road space with cars. The people in the wagon deserve a swift kick and I hope the other donkey gives it to them, idiots.

I've done quite a bit of resin casting and not to rain on your parade but that technique will be very hit and miss with using hard plastic (resin) as you are only likely to get one casting and the first cast isn't always a good one. Silicone really is the best thing to use for molds when casting resin you don't have to do a full block mold which will use alot of silicone you can do a matrix or skin mold, here is an example of how to do them here http://www.conceptart.org/forums/showthread.php?t=47324 If you definately can't afford silicone liquid latex can be used but it takes longer to make a mold as you need to wait for the layers to set up, though there are thicker versions around which will make the process quicker. In the long run you are'nt going to save any money by casting unless your after quite a few multiples of each gun model as you need the blue gun or the real thing in the first place to make the mold. If you are wanting to do multiples silicone is definately the way to go as you will get more casts out of silicone than you will for liquid latex. Hope this is of some help Cheers, Clair

Thanks Tina, I guess probably not then as I'm not able to get Fiebings Spirit Dyes shipped here either. Cheers, Clair

That's come up really nice King's X, the contrast sets it off beautifully.

I don't do alot of swivel knife work preferring the traditional old Australian way of just using bevelers and modelling spoons, I was going through all my books and one of them mentioned these tools Z998, Z999L and Z999R. I see that Tandy has discontinued them and if they come up on ebay they are always grouped with other tools I've already got. So if anyone has them and aren't using them please get in touch as I would love to give them a try. Even if you don't want to sell them for someone who has them would it be possible to take some clear photos so I can see the actual sizes and possibly have a go at making them myself. Thankyou for any help Cheers, Clair