sonorabitandspur

Here is the photos of the rein knot I described.

Here is the photos of the rein knot I described.

Here is the way I do it. Was taught to me by an older horseman who worked at a cutting horse ranch. Never comes untied and is not difficult to take out if you need to. I tried to post photos but keep getting "low memory" error. I don't know what that is about as I reduce the camera setting to low as I could go. I'll try later as I have had no trouble posting photos in the past. 1 go through both holes from the back of the water loop and rein holes, leave a little loose. Take one lace and wrap around to the front and then back around to the back and pass under the loop and continue around to the front, pass under the lace and work until tight. 2 take the second end and repeat going the opposite direction.

Big Sioux Saddlery, lol, I know just what you mean. kykay, I might have one similar to the one Big Sioux Saddlery posted, mine has a ring and chafe guard in the center, it's got curved contoured sides. I also have a collar with straight side straps. Same ring and chafe guard in the center. I'll trace it out and post it. My scanner is too small but I might be able to get it done at Staples or some place like that. It will take a few days before I get to town.

I have tried making cuffs from patterns and find they usually don't fit well. I seem to have larger than average forearms and wrist. I found a video by Richard Black that shows how to measure, design and make some custom sized cuffs that will fit. https://youtu.be/r4GdGLWjdYo

Did you find a pattern? What style are you looking for? I have several breast collars that could be traced out for patterns. I have a heavy roping style, a pleasure collar, the breast plate style, martingale style?

There are a number of western boot schools as well, while you specify work boots, the western packer boot was actually a redesigned work boot used by loggers, often referred to by name like WESCOs, White's, ect.... White has bought out WESCO, and produces several other brands of work boot. These are not the crepe sold stuff sold at walmart and other cheap junk store's, these are the pinnical of bootmaking tech, that loggers, firefighters, cowboys and ranchers will spend hundreds of dollars to purchase. So heres a few schools that can be found on the web. http://www.bootmaker.com/dwswb.htm http://www.merrellfootlab.com/institute.htm

No argument with what is preferred, tool after casing and shaping. What I am referring to is how to shape a hollow pocket/pouch that you want tooled. I personally felt my fully tooled saddlebags would be missing something with a plain pocket underneath the flap. (Everyone said,"well you can't see it when the flap is down anyway," but I like to do things a bit different and leaving it that way would bother me. ) So I tried a little thinking outside the norm (or box) I was prepared for a loss of definition in the tooling. I was surprised however that using the method I outlined in the previous post that loss of definition of the tooling was negligible to nonexistent. I believe this was for three basic reasons, 1) not allowing water to get on the tooled portion,(I do realize that moisture would wick into the underlying fibers, and might affect the tooling.) 2) treating the tooled area with Neet's Foot Oil, and allowing it time to fully penetrate into the leather under the tooling. 3) being very careful to not oversaturate the leather with water when preparing to form. (Using just enough dampness to form.) I have a lousy cell phone camera and the photo is not the greatest, so it might be hard to see detail in the photo. In the end I was pleased with the results and have repeated this a number of times. The very first pocket was molded and then tooled on the form. I was very disappointed with the results because my mold block was too soft (even though it was old growth fir) and it was difficult to get good detail. That first one was immediatly discarded. So after thinking about it for awhile, I tried this method.

Nice dove wing straps! Nice clean job. Interesting thought on which way to place the letters. I usually place them from the perspective of others.

I don't know how others mold and tool leather. I did this on a set of saddle bags. I molded a front pocket which was stitched to the pocket front so I could keep small items separate and more accessable. I chose to cut the part out in a rough size and shape. Then dampen the leather, trace out my pattern carve and tool. I allow the piece to dry thouroghly, and then apply a thin coat of Neets Foot oil. Allow to sit to get full penetation into the tooling. This usually takes two or three days until none of the oil is left on the surface of the tooled leather. At this point I will wet the edges around the tooling with warm water, being very careful not to get water directly on the tooled portion. Then place it over the mold form and work it into shape and then put the press board over and clamp down. In 24 to 48 hours the leather should be thouroghly dry. Remove from the mold and apply stain then a light coat of oil. I'm sure there will be other opinions on this but this has always worked well for me. I have used this method several times and it has never failed to produce good results.

If there are those interested in how stirup bolts with conchos are made I could try to do a tutorial, though this really falls outside the realm of leather working. (More in the bit and spur makers world) it might take me awhile to get it done as I would need time to get to it and to order some silver for the job. In the words of Cptn. Jack, "why is the rum (in this case the silver) always gone?"

Nice Idea, only thing I see is the straps for hanging on the saddle horn need to be much more substantial. From my experience, light duty 1/8 inch leather lace will last about long enough to get your thirst started and break spilling your drink five feet lower on the ground. I would suggest the smallest size strap should be about the same as a quality saddle string, either solid or braided. I have had radios, binoculars and cameras dumped on the gound using saddle string sized material, but then when needing to ride at a gallop alot of stuff flies off, some of it to never be seen again.