Troy Burch

Wizcrafts, That slow steady speed with full power sounds like What I need. Would I commission your kind of setup with an Adler dealer or where I'd buy the servo? The Adler dealer is 45 minutes from my shop and would save a lot of shipping charges because I'd have to ship the table too I guess or should I just call Cowboy Bob.

I bought this from an old friend that retired because of his health. The machine works like new, but my issue is trying to control the sewing speed. I'm in a wheel chair with no use of my legs or I wouldn't have a problem with useing the foot petal. I've tried a couple of modifications but keep having the same problems. I cant get a steady speed, it either goes like a bat out of hell or slows until it won't punch thru the leather with things I've tried so far.Will a servo motor fix this? Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Thank you Troy and yes I know my shop needs cleaning lol

Lol, probably just snicker and walk on by wondering what kind of parade saddle that was.

Fredo, that looks good to me. The only thing that caught my eye was the thumb prints. I think maybe they would look a little better if they were walked a little instead of just stamping one impression. good job Troy

Michelle, I guess it's a matter of who your customers are. Mine are almost all working ranch cowboys and team ropers who put lots of wear and tear on there equipment 4 or 5 days a week working, practiceing, competeing, sweating, etc. If the stitching sits on top of the leather it gets rubbed a lot and frays and comes apart over time, this really upsets these fellows. They expect the leather to wear out before the workmanship. I learned this the hard way when they quit coming back to me and went elsewhere. Lucky for me my brothers and nephews let me in on the problem and I started grooving and eventually got my customers back. I repaired a 1954 championship saddle for a Mr. Moss ( he was inducted into the National Rodeo Association hall of fame in 2010) and the stitching was still in good shape sitting down in the grooves. I'm not saying British style is wrong or not pretty, I'm saying different styles for different uses. I was just giving Betabun my experience on the matter. Happy tooling, Troy By the way Al is one of my heroes too, maybe he taught it for the same reason.

The stitching groover depends on what your making. If you make a lot belts or items that the stitching gets rubbed alot you certainly need a groove for the thread to sit down in to avoid fraying. If the stitching is the first thing to wear out ( and it will without a groove) you won't be getting many repeat customers. I've been repairing tack and saddles for years because of frayed wornout unraveled stitching.

Thank you Terry

I'd really like an opinion from some of you sheridan carvers if you think the smooth bevelers and thumb prints look better than the lined ones. Which ones do you use the most?

Always clean your bone after use. I wash my hands beore I touch my bone.

picture please

Bob, I mean the darkening of the leather when you bevel or pear shade on natural leather. After looking at your picture I'm guessing you wouldn't want it to. Thanks

Okay, I'm about to invest in some Barry King tools. I've done mostly art work for a few years and am going to start trying sheridan carving now. I'm not sure which to buy and can't afford both sets at the moment. I'm sure it's a preference thing but would like opinions please. To show my ignorance on the subject where is a leaf liner used, and do I really need it and a center shader? I can't make up my mind if I should go ahead and buy the 400.oo kit or just grab a couple of bevelers and thumb prints. Somebody knock me off this fence, lol. Thanks Troy

That is very nice work, but I'm curious why you didn't make the strap and the keeper match.

Hi Bob, Does the tooling burnish well?

Maybe I watched to many horror movies as a kid. That hand coming out just reminds me of some of them.

Lol, that's awesome! A little freaky but awesome.

Sorry I have them, didn't reconize them without the covers. That's a very good price.

I can't read what they are about. Are they the saddle making series?

Hey Fred, I bought a few things from Lansky's today, thanks for the advice.

Fred, I've been wanting an excuse to buy that, so I guess I will now. Will it sharpen a swivel knife blade or a skiver knife thats beveled on only one side? Is it the deluxe 5 stone system 49.99? Thanks Troy

I've only used the wooden one so can't help with the comparison, but it's a big time saver and much easier. Which ever one you get you'll be glad you did.

lol, I told you I couldn't carry on an inteligent conversation about it. All I know is for the many years I've been abusing them rawhide trees work better for me. Thanks oltoot, you makem and I'll ridem

Bob, I don't know enough about saddle building to have an inteligent conversation about it, but it seems to me fiberglass is much more brittle than rawhide judgeing by how boats, lawnmowers and such bust when bumped into. I allways thought the treebars put the pressure on the withers and kidneys of a horse not the covering. The wooden tree is not going to give and the covering is simply to strengthen the tree.

I come from a long line of team ropers and ranch hands. We and pretty much everyone I know prefer double rawhide trees. They'll hold up to heavy use such as pulling and yanking steers around, or the occasional big bull that has to be put in a trailer in the middle of a pasture. There's nothing wrong with the others if your riding cutting horses or not putting the saddle under extreme stress. Nothing worse than a mad bull on the end of a rope and a busted tree. The rawhide will hold the saddle together if the tree breaks long enough to get out of the situation. Doesn't happen much but once will make you a believer. Troy

I believe eyelet setter is the proper name . It's not a tubeular setter for rivets, close but not the same.