Troy Burch

I've taken water stains off leather like yours and Wyoming Slick's method and it works pretty well, but I used warm water.

The little theromstated electrc heaters are cheep, I have used one in my well house for years. Just set it on low and it keeps the 10'x12' room around 50 degrees, any hardware store will have them.

That's real nice work.

Yes Sir, that's why I'm asking. I want the best nonstaining oil I can buy. I would like to order from one of the members here, just want to be sure it's the same quality I'd get from Adler.

I bought a 205 Adler a few months back and I'm out of oil. Are all white oils non staining? Are they all equal? As you can tell I'm new to this sewing machine stuff, any advice would be helpful. Thanks Troy

Dwight is 100% right , I completely over looked the cartridge type belt part. I do mine just like Dwight does except I use five holes but make the tongue a little longer incase future holes are needed.

Ask him for the measurement from the hole he uses to the buckle hook on his old belt and you should be good to go.

theres nothing wrong with the stitching execpt the awl was turned the wrong angle.

I use deglazer to take the old finish off, usually do it twice to be sure it's all off, Then redye (Pro Oil dye), buff like crazy, dye again, buff again. Mine come out looking factory dyed.

That's really nice

Practice some more with varing mosture content until you find which gives you the best burnishing effect and then you'll have it. Good luck Troy

The higher grade leather is tanned a little differently to make it a better quality for tooling, I'm not sure but it might affect the hardness.

Well you've had time to finish, lets have a look. You can't keep something like that to yourself. lol

I have a box of them, same thing. I now only use them for cleaning solutions. I got a pack of 1/2" swabs from SLC and they work great, you can take a paper towel and squeeze the dye and edge coat out and reuse them mutiple times.

Along with everything Bob Blea said, use a straight edge to run your swivel knife against on the border cuts and fade your background tool out as you get further away from the carving.

I had trouble with doing a nice basket weave also, just couldn't seem to keep it properly in line. Then I watched a Chan Greer video where he showed his way of doing it and bingo, it made a hella of a difference. I can't believe with your talent your not capable of doing it.

Maybe a rosetta cutter, or even a cookie cutter might be work if your leather is wet.

I've dyed new grey boots brown and a blue pair black and they came out looking like they were bought that way. Use the oil dye, Tandy sells it and it says on the bottle can be used for boots. I deglaze them first, (do a really good job on the deglazing). After their dry dye them, let dry, buffem real good and dye them again dry buff again put on clear finish.

looks like a large stitching wheel mark maybe.

my 205 adler has a v belt with a link. Does the cobra 4 have more torque?

When I maxed out the adjustment on my 205 Adler I took the belt off removed the staple where the belt was spliced together cut off about 1 1/2 inches put the staple back in place put the belt back on, took about 15 minutes and problem solved. I don't know much about sewing machines or if this can be done to yours but thats the way the belt was put together with the staple laying down in a groove when I got the machine.

He does have a starter kit. It's $400 and if your going to be doing floral they are the best. I bought the kit a few months back and it made a hugh difference, not real good for pictoral carving though for that you'll need good quality figure bevelers. If you know what kind of tooling you want to do someone can give you better directions. Troy

why not just get a buckle blank and cover it with tooled leather

The cowboy hall of fame is around there somewhere.

Says I don't have permission to view it. Why not?