Troy Burch

I have that same pattern pack but it doesn't come with instructions or material list for constructing the frame. Was going to make some Christmas gifts and have spent alot of time on utube to no avail. I'm sure the frame is made out of leather with a stiffener for backing and the picture just slides in but I don't really want to spend time and money on trail and error to get it right. Maybe one of the pros will help us out. Nice tooling job. Troy

Are you wanting the heels and soles brown? You should be able to redye them as well. At least I do, but I do use deglazer and pro oil dye. I don't know if the dye your using will work as good for that but it seems to be doing fine on the softer stuff. No I don't have any pictures sorry.

Use rubber glue, it's made for taking stuff back apart. Just pull the poster board off the leather (it removes easily) not the leather off the board, if you pull on the leather it could stretch a little.

If it's a big piece like a note book I glue it to poster board with rubber cement, that will solve your problem. If it's a strap like a belt I use packing tape. If you use tape rub it firmly with something to secure it better or the tape will loosen, I use a round maul.

Just saw this Grizzly. I had these same questions about 7 years back long before I became a member here. I learned thru trail and error not to use a gloss on art work, you won't like he glare. I use an acrylic matte spray. I wouldn't brush it on for fear of getting the acrylic paint wet and moving it around. Even with the matte finish you'll still have plenty of shine. I do apply a gloss to the eyes and inside the nostrels and places I want a wet look.

I've taken water stains off leather like yours and Wyoming Slick's method and it works pretty well, but I used warm water.

The little theromstated electrc heaters are cheep, I have used one in my well house for years. Just set it on low and it keeps the 10'x12' room around 50 degrees, any hardware store will have them.

That's real nice work.

Yes Sir, that's why I'm asking. I want the best nonstaining oil I can buy. I would like to order from one of the members here, just want to be sure it's the same quality I'd get from Adler.

I bought a 205 Adler a few months back and I'm out of oil. Are all white oils non staining? Are they all equal? As you can tell I'm new to this sewing machine stuff, any advice would be helpful. Thanks Troy

Dwight is 100% right , I completely over looked the cartridge type belt part. I do mine just like Dwight does except I use five holes but make the tongue a little longer incase future holes are needed.

Ask him for the measurement from the hole he uses to the buckle hook on his old belt and you should be good to go.

theres nothing wrong with the stitching execpt the awl was turned the wrong angle.

I use deglazer to take the old finish off, usually do it twice to be sure it's all off, Then redye (Pro Oil dye), buff like crazy, dye again, buff again. Mine come out looking factory dyed.

That's really nice

Practice some more with varing mosture content until you find which gives you the best burnishing effect and then you'll have it. Good luck Troy

The higher grade leather is tanned a little differently to make it a better quality for tooling, I'm not sure but it might affect the hardness.

Well you've had time to finish, lets have a look. You can't keep something like that to yourself. lol

I have a box of them, same thing. I now only use them for cleaning solutions. I got a pack of 1/2" swabs from SLC and they work great, you can take a paper towel and squeeze the dye and edge coat out and reuse them mutiple times.

Along with everything Bob Blea said, use a straight edge to run your swivel knife against on the border cuts and fade your background tool out as you get further away from the carving.

I had trouble with doing a nice basket weave also, just couldn't seem to keep it properly in line. Then I watched a Chan Greer video where he showed his way of doing it and bingo, it made a hella of a difference. I can't believe with your talent your not capable of doing it.

Maybe a rosetta cutter, or even a cookie cutter might be work if your leather is wet.

I've dyed new grey boots brown and a blue pair black and they came out looking like they were bought that way. Use the oil dye, Tandy sells it and it says on the bottle can be used for boots. I deglaze them first, (do a really good job on the deglazing). After their dry dye them, let dry, buffem real good and dye them again dry buff again put on clear finish.

looks like a large stitching wheel mark maybe.

my 205 adler has a v belt with a link. Does the cobra 4 have more torque?