Troy Burch

very nice

I have an adler 205 and a Boss, after learning the Boss's little quirks and how to fix them it's been a nice machine. Great for portability and for repairs when needing to sew back in the same old holes.

welcome back

Have you checked to see if the bobbin spring is broken.

I've been intending to get some wood drill bits ( the spade kind) and make some different sizes but just haven't got around to it yet. The sharpened screw driver works good but with different sizes one whack with the mallet and theres your slit.

I made a slot cutter out of wide flat screw driver works great for multiple uses.

slap a little cold water on your face. lol admin can fix it

It's a leather strop. I use it for the swivel knife, petal lifter, skiving knife, etc. I was just wandering how much black and metal buildup was too much or can the crud get too thick? It's easy enough to make another I'm just curious at what point do you know their wornout.

When painting always start at the top or the raised parts, I presume it's the same for dyes.

This is going to seem stupid but at what point do you need to make a new strop? Mine still seems to be working fine but it has gotten really black and shinny. thanks Troy

I do a lot of 3d carving and when I cut the hair loose (should be about the same as grass) I brush blockout on the hair (enough to throughly wet the leather) and pick and shape the hair. When it dries it stiffens the leather and holds it's shape. I've got carvings around 8 years old with horse manes, indian heads, etc that have never lost they're shape. Rob Barr used this method and his stuff has been around for years and years and still look great.

That's nice figure carving. You done an awesome job keeping that flag pole straight.

Thank you Sir.

Sorry for the bother but trying to see if my pictures resized smaller.

Just a thought, how about modifing an english or jockey saddle, seems the tree may be close to what you want. There are also kid saddles if you can find an old one you can take apart for sizing and make the new parts to resemble McClellan.

I wouldn't be afraid to go to far if your going to have to redo them anyway. I would try a rag soaked in deglazer to remove the finish and let completely dry(most times I deglaze twice), the antique is water based and shouldn't be that hard to remove then start over. If you can't sell them you don't have much to lose. I use that method a lot to redye or change color on old boots and they come out looking very nice.

Had the same problem, Wizcrafts and Northmount are right it was the tension disk. After 6 or 8 stitches top thread would loop and catch the bobbin thread several times making a hell of a mess. Watch the thread at the needle on the down stroke when you sew and it will get slack and soon make a loop just before or at the time the needle inters the leather, if thread is all the way in the disk then just tighten the disk and problem solved. I double nutted my tension disks and never had the problem again.

Thanks, I figured it must be something like that.

thank you

I understand there is a lightly waxed thread and a heavy waxed one in Tiger thread, which one are ya'll useing ?

That's really nice work. How did you make your pics smaller, I'm having the same problem. Thanks Troy

I'm no expert but I've been storing my veg tanned leather in my shop for years with no apparent problems. I only heat or cool it when I'm in there working. I do keep it covered so it won't darken, never had a problem with rats. I live in north Tx. over 100 degrees in summer and teens and twenty's in winter. I have some leather several years old and can't tell the difference from the newer stuff.

Cheap sluts for $15 billfolds is ok but with $50 billfolds sluts should also be upgraded.

and mine