DCKNIVES

Hello James,I know Troy does seats,I do sheaths and holsters.I know of no local groups but I am always willing to talk about leather.Contact me if you want from my website.Dave

I wouldn't let insects attack it.Your skin might get damaged.I haven't tried it without the acetone but I expect it might work, don't know just doing what the taxidermist said.Dave

It turned out very well.Dave

Nicely done and creative.Dave

I frankly don't see where it matters, all the definitions say "normally flush", but its still a matter of preference.I explain both methods in my tutorial and leave it up to the maker.I also explain both ways when I teach students.My personal preference is recessed and yes I have done raised inlays, though many hides do not lend themselves to being padded.I am reasonably sure that I have done more inlay's than most on this forum, because that's what I have chosen to specialize in for 20 years.I have also done some filigree work, which i consider quite a bit different.I have always strived to try new things and have inlayed all kinds of exotics, stones, wood,Ivory,carbon fiber, and different kinds of metal, while certainly not traditional, they were well accepted.I just don't see being close minded when it comes to artwork and I think it stifles creativity.Dave

That is some serious work and skills, just beautiful.Dave

Thanks to TJ and Mike for thier kind comments.Yes, look under Knife Gallery for my leatherwork (sorry ,it's the way program for the site is).Yes, by all means dye and burnish the window prior to gluing and sewing.Dave

I much prefer to do full inlays rather than an"add-on" piece, so I would go with your second idea.Feel free to look at my site, as I have quite a few inlays there, as well as a tutorial under"Knife Info".Dave

Try the Ostrich Market.They have a great selection.Dave Ostrich Market

I a fortunate that I also make knives so I have alot of equipment that can be dual purpose.My main machine is my Burr-King, which is variable speed, and good for the long edges.For smaller curves,I built a small wheel sander with a 1" wheel, and a 1/2" wheel, cleans those holsters and sheaths right up.Dave

Botach does not have the best reputation on the Knife forums.Many sad stories about them.Dave

I made some changes to mine, added some equipment that was gifted to me, and built some.Dave

Having not seen the HF tool, hard to tell why it's not grabbing but my guess is there is an adjustment needed at the nose.We had a similar unit where I used to work and the nose came off for cleaning and adjustment.When using air tools one -two drops is all thats needed or wanted.Dave

I have never seen one specifically for fish scales,but you can do a reasonable job using "mulesfoot" stamps.They make several shapes some tapered and some more round.I have one made up for snakeskin scales that my mentor made me that is similar, or you could make your own.Dave this is how it looks

I agree on the Mexican round braid and I have a photo tutorial on my website under"Knife Info".Hope this helps.Dave

Yes, there was a thread on this before.Generally with the time and materials needed to accomplish this, you would be spending more than buying "Blue guns", and it would be debatable if you could achieve the quility of that product.Remember time is money, and while I am all for making all the equipment you can, cost versus time becomes an issue if your depending on sales to pay bills.Dave

Your sheaths look to be very well done.Clean stitching, nice edges, proper knife depth for the pouch sheaths, and even dyeing on the inside, all things I usually look for.Your center seam sheaths are really nicely done.You don't see many of those in the states, and they can be tough to get right.I have done only one center seam myself, and it was a Plains Indian version done with rawhide.Dave

I have never done a helm before but have done a few powder horns.Those horns are great looking.I think I would start by cutting and fitting a wood block to fit inside the horn and either screw throughthe horn or epoxy it in.I would then attach the horns to the helm by a screw through the helm and into the block of wood. Of course all of this would be done before putting in any linings.Dave edited to add me and dirtclod answered at the same time with the same answer lol

If it helps I have a photo tutorial on my website for doing inlays, listed under"Knife Info".Cobra is real easy to work with,so you should have few problems.Feel free to contact me if you have any issues.Dave

Thank you very much.Dave

Thanks for the nice comments, and it was a pleasure meeting you too.Linda enjoyed it very much as well.It's fun teaching someone that wants to learn, as like I told I have had several that asked for my help and yet still didn't try to learn this.I would encourage all new leatherworkers( include any craft in here) to seek out pro's and get advice and/or training.It will cut years off the learning curve and many will give up thier time to willing students.But be prepared as some do charge for this, but even if you have to pay it is still worth it.I am just happy that we now have another maker here with a passion that we all have.Dave

I just got off the phone with Henry at the Osrtrich Market and he says he has some different colors in smaller pieces.Give him a call off the link below.Dave Ostrich Market

Welcome to the Forum from another Floridian and Knifemaker/sheathmaker.Dave

Just finished these two, for a new gun shop.I took the black one and inlaid a digital image of the shop logo in it,The other is inlaid with hardback Alligator and basketweave laced.Dave

Nicely done.Dave