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9tpi

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Everything posted by 9tpi

  1. Thank you! I actually never punch all the way through, just mark the leather and pass through with the awl while stitching. This particular project i use a 38mm Blanchard diamond awl. Thanks, that's very kind of you. We are always our own worst critics, aren't we?
  2. When i hand sew (saddle stitch) I set up everything in such a manner as to "create a box" with the stitches. What i mean by a box is if i am sewing 2 pieces of 4 oz ( 1.5mm x 2 =3mm) leather together then i will select a 3mm pricking iron. This will essentially create a 'box' as the the stitch will travel through the leather the same distance as is does across the leather. In theory anyway.This will maximise the strength of the stitch in all directions. As for thread it's a little more subjective. my rule is 6-7 spi 332-432, 8-9spi 532-632 and higher than 10spi is 832. Again this is just how I do it.
  3. Thanks very much! I stitched the keeper, that it closest to the buckle, in place. The other is floating. I agree with you and never stitch across a strap EXCEPT watch straps. A: because it creates a nicer finished product and B: because there will never be enough tension on that strap to worry about the couple of stitch holes . IMO
  4. Hello All, This is a Christmas present for a friend of the family. Horween essex exterior lined and padded with Veg Tan. Saddle stitched with 632 fil au chinois, at 8 Spi (9 tpi iron) One of the punched holes got away from me and is a bit off center, it really upset me as there is nothing than can be done once it's punched. Oh well, I don't think his wrist is that big anyway .
  5. This is fantastic. A lot of work and thought has gone into this design. One of the best that I've seen on here. Well done
  6. Thanks! I agree It can definitely be a daunting task. To be honest, 50% of my time is spent planning before i even take a blade to the leather. I never do anything "on the fly". I try to figure out every possible problem i might run into before i get there and I plan a solution or technique to avoid it.
  7. James, Thank you for the compliment, it's much appreciated. I find when i'm building bags that have piping (bags built inside out- turned) the "temper" or softness of the leather is the deciding factor as to whether or not it is suitable for a "turned" bag. For example some tumbled or shrunken leather in 6oz-7oz is much easier to work with than say 3oz natural veg tan; when building a bag inside out. I hope that answers your question, Chris
  8. David, Good eye. I did re do the draw string. Initially it was a cotton cord wrapped in leather (How some handles are made) but i found it caused too much interference/friction when trying to open the bag. The revised string is just leather folded over onto itself and sewn up.
  9. thank you, Monica. I'll have the shoulder strap done this week. completing the bag thank you Much appreciated ! Thanks Skyler Not special technique, to be honest. Just a little OCD. The ends are simply butted together and sewn up. As i mentioned i'll have it fully complete with shoulder strap this week.
  10. Hi David, the piping; I usually mark the distance of my stitch line equal to the thickness of the piping. For example,4 oz folded over onto it self (8oz) is equal to 1/8 of an inch. Therefore I mark my stitch line 1/8 in on the piping. Inside the bag there is a larges excess that I later trim prior to turn the bag right side out. thank you very much ! thank you very much !
  11. That is beyond fantastic! They are very lucky to receive such a beautiful gift.
  12. Thank you, and you're welcome ! Thanks! Nothing crazy planned for the edge. Just burnish, sand, edge-coat, and a bit of wax. I just didn't have time last night. Thanks very much.
  13. A bit of an update; The body of the bag is assembled with lining, zippered pocket and iphone pouch (not pictured) as requested by my better half. Need to finish the edge on the top of the bag. Shoulder strap and handle still left to make. May redo the "draw string" as there is a bit of interference through the eyelets. Thanks for looking.
  14. Exactly what DavidL said. Only punch one side of the leather. Glue both pieces of leather together and use an awl to punch through the back side. if you punch both, and try to line them up, you will always run into the issue you are having. Chris
  15. Nice work! They should be hung on a wall, not under an arse. Chris
  16. Beautiful work! Both handle designs are well executed.
  17. Thanks ! Well I'm a big Honda guy so I'll have to check them out. Thanks ! Thanks for the kind words! It's not terribly difficult to execute. Just break it down to its individual components.
  18. Thanks Tugadude, I end the padding at that point, before the holes, as it will be too bulky going through the buckle. Most padded watch bands are made this way, in my experience. Thank you
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