Big Sioux Saddlery

I will add that I have a straight spokeshave that works fantastic for truing up edges. If I take the time to get a wicked sharp edge on it, I have not found anything that works as well.

I use both. I have about 8 or 10 spoke and heel shaves, but built saddles for years without. They are just another tool that cam make life easier. Ninety-nine percent of the time, I only use the spoke and heel shaves for saddles, the little potato peeler skiver I use for a lot of things. It is on my bench most of the time. Advantage is you never have to sharpen it, just pop the blade out and put a new one in. I also have a couple of Tandy chrome plated skivers. . . I don't remember what they are called, but I never have liked them. They always seem to dive and take too much off, or not cut at all. The potato peeler skivers, if you have a new sharp blade in them, are much more controllable for me. However, I will say that the last couple new ones I've gotten won't cut. The design isn't quite right and they absolutely won't cut a thing. I got them both from Weaver, and thought the first one was just a fluke, so I ordered another one and it was no better. I've worn a couple out, so it's been something I've kept an eye open for on the used/vintage market.

I will try to get a picture yet this evening. I have cut yokes from about every place on a hide, except of course loose fibered or flanky leather. About any good, clear spot you can get them out of will work. It will depend on the individual hide itself, but sometimes there is some decent leather in the center of the belly that you wouldn't use for something that takes a lot of stress and strain. If cut from leather that is too soft or stretchy, the yokes can stretch out of shape just from hanging when not being worn. Shoulder leather is ok if not too wrinkly. I use latigo for my leg straps, probably about 8-9 oz. Every year I repair a few pairs of chinks where someone used too light of a weight of leather or even splits for the leg straps, and they don't hold up very long. If using snaps, I use a saddle string weight Alum tan and attach the snaps to the strap with a bleed knot.

If your yokes are going to be tooled or stamped, you'll want a veg-tan of about 6/7 or 7/8 oz. The spur leathers should be heavier, probably about 10 oz. veg tan or light weight saddle skirting. As far as patterns, do a google search for what you want. I have never been happy with commercially available patterns (although I haven't tried some of the more recent ones) and my chink patterns have been developed over a period of 30+ years. I still tweak them every once in awhile. I don't typically sell or share my patterns, but I have a clicker die for the dove wing spur leathers and I'd click out a pair if you want, or take a picture first and see if you like them. I normally get $16 for a set of spur leather blanks.

The cow hides are meant to stay rawhide. I'd just like to try brain tanning a small hide sometime. I've heard it's pretty labor intensive, and you don't want a heavy hide.

This is a new one on me. How does the skin end up? Is it similar to a brain tan? And do the skins have an odor after they are finished? I never knew you could tan hides with an egg! I have, at times through the years, really wanted to try a brain tan, but I also, get a little queasy at the thought of cracking the skull open. I remember talking to a guy who did some brain tanning, and he said he'd put the brain in the blender and make a "brain shake". If I could get someone else to do the work up to that point, and NOT think about what I was really using, I think I would someday like to try it. . . when I get some spare time. I still have two frozen cowhides in my freezer that I'm going to make rawhide out of, "when I get time".

If they need more than you can provide, send them my way! I have piles of stuff that people have left when I told them it wouldn't pay to fix it.

A hollow fiberglass tree is about the most dangerous item of equine equipment in use today. They should not be allowed to be sold in this country. They come in my shop almost brand new with the riggings pulled out. The screws strip out when they run them in during construction, and you can about pull the nails out with your hands. Furthermore they don't fit our horses worth a damn. Whenever a client brings one in, they get my unabridged opinion on them and the whole "I wouldn't put a dime into it" sermon. Ken is right, you could be held liable if the next person to own that saddle gets hurt. Furthermore, if you want to start working on saddles for other folks, do you really want the reputation for peddling junk like that? My advice, and take it for what it costs you, is to chalk this one up to experience. Keep it around as a reminder and to educate folks who bring that garbage in in the future. And, I bet next time you trade for or buy a saddle, you check the tree:-) The manufacturers are getting smarter and more deceptive on these hollow fiberglass trees. About a year ago a lady brought one in. I could tell the second it came through the door exactly what it was. I started to give her "the sermon", and lifted up the seat jockey to show her, and thought for a minute I was going to have to eat my words. The tree appeared to be rawhide covered, complete with rawhide lacing. Upon a little closer inspection, it was simply a strip of laced rawhide tacked onto the edge of the tree bar in an attempt to fool the casual observer. It was so poorly installed it wouldn't even have served as reinforcement, as is common on some of the older cheap "tipped" wooden trees. These saddles are costing between 400-600 new, and the buyers are getting screwed, because at best they are pure garbage, and at worst, downright dangerous. I rest my case.

Is it Ralide or hollow fiberglass? Either one and I personally wouldn't put the amount of money into the saddle that you're talking about. If it's hollow fiberglass, I wouldn't put a dime in it. Those trees are absolutely unsafe from the get go. Ralide is a little better, but it wouldn't be my choice for a working saddle.

Just a word to the wise. . . if your rigging was hanging by a thread, make sure to check where it was attached. Very often I get saddles in that the rigging has torn out, or is about to, and it is due to tree breakage at the point of attachment. I've had at least a half dozen come in this way this spring. The edge of the bar cracks or breaks where the screws and nails were put into the tree and everything lets go. This is very common, especially on the lower grade production saddles. Even a good rawhide covered tree can break at this point if whoever installed the riggings was not careful about screw and nail placement, or if the saddle was involved in a bad wreck (under a horse usually). If possible I'd like to see pictures of this saddle that you are planning to rebuild. Good luck!

I have a speedy stitcher I bought when I first started doing leatherwork and have used it maybe 5 times since then. Like Colonel said, a hook in a haft works better most of the time for tight spaces. It's difficult to get a good looking hand stitch with that thing. Re: head knives, do yourself a favor and buy a good one right off the bat. A new Osborne will make you hate round knives for the rest of your life. My recommendation would be to buy an older knife from Bruce Johnson, or if you are adept at sharpening things yourself, buy an older, good brand that needs to be cleaned up and sharpened (less money--usually). W. Rose is an excellent knife, once you get it sharp. Older C.S Osbornes, H.F. Osborne, Gomph, and there are others. I'd actually recommend two of them, one bigger broader one for straight cuts and skiving, and a smaller one with the points swept back for pattern cutting. If they are good, the more you use them the more you'll want to (kind of like a good horse). If they are poor, your work will show it and you'll hate round knives. A good draw gauge is essential for strap work, again I'd go with something from a tool collector/trader. Most of my awl blades are, you guessed it, old. I do have a couple Bob Douglas blades that are ok, but I still prefer the old steel. Getting tougher to find all the time though. I have 3 or 4 that I use the most. One is very small and reserved for English work. I can't even tell you the sizes; I just grab the one that I know I want for any given job. You'll probably want a little trim knife. The so-called "clicker knives" will work, but again, the more you spend, usually the better the knife. A range of drive punches are needed. I still have a cheap set of Tandy punches that I got 30 years ago. I doubt the ones they sell now would last as long. I like oval punches for a lot of things. Weavers brand are ok, but taper too abruptly and I've curled the edges on a couple already, maybe after 5-10 years of use.. I bought a couple new Osborne ovals and rolled the edges on one almost right away. A range of strap end and bag punches are all things you'll eventually want. There really is no end to buying tools; seems like there is always one more thing you need.

Your shuttle is very much like mine! Nobody that I've ever shown it to has seen another like it. It would be interesting to know the history; was that an upgrade offered at some point in time by Landis? Unfortunately there is very little information out there on the history of these machines. It appears from the pictures that the screw to regulate the bobbin tension is missing, and part of the tension spring has been broken off. That area of the shuttle can really take a beating by a careless operator. Some shuttles had no tension springs at all, just a series of holes to run the thread through in order to set the tension. I don't know if those came original that way from Landis, or if they were manufactured in later years as replacement shuttles, long after Landis quit handling parts for these machines. At any rate, that type of shuttle was a poor design, IMO. Please keep us updated on what Eli does with your shuttle. I have several extras that need some work before they could be used.

Very common assumption. There are parts and pieces in saddlery and harness that need to be heavy, and parts that don't. Some of the heaviest leather available is tanned out of this country, and is real garbage. It is way more important to buy the best quality leather you can afford, than to buy the heaviest. Top quality leather will last a lifetime and take a lot of abuse. Poor quality is garbage from the start and 5 years down the road is still garbage, no matter how much oil or fancy conditioners are applied. If you rope and work cattle with your equipment, it receives much more abuse than that of a once-a-week trail rider. Use good stuff. Best of luck with your project.

I agree with Cowboy Colonel, at 13-15 oz, the fenders may be too heavy. For stirrup leathers, I prefer that weight, but you wouldn't need that heavy of leather for the fenders, or the skirts, depending on the method of construction. It will just add unnecessary weight and your fenders will not have much flexibility. Heavy does not necessarily equal good. Sometimes it just means heavy. I would be apprehensive about ordering just one side and making the parts you want to make. It is nice having a variety to choose from when cutting saddle parts, and I would not want to be limited to one side. Or maybe you could buy your stirrup leathers pre-cut, and cut the rest of the parts from a side of 11-13. Or, if funds are not an issue, buy a side of 13/15 for your stirrup leathers (and have plenty for future repairs of other saddles)and one side of 11/13, most of which you will use for the rest of your parts.

Size limits, or ya can't keep any, at all??

Holster looks good, for all I know about holsters, but about that tackle box and NOT fishing. . . I thought you moved to MN so you could fish MORE!

Most, if not all, of Weaver's hardware is cast overseas. There was an Amish company getting some of their hardware cast either in the USA or Canada. Hillside maybe? Shoot, can't remember, anyone help me out here? I'll do some checking. I tried some of it a few years ago, and in all honesty, the overseas stuff seemed like better quality! Heavier and neater castings.

You wouldn't happen to have a picture of that shuttle would you? Just curious, as I too have a somewhat unusual shuttle that came with one of my Landis #1s, although there is a standard tension spring on mine.

What type and weight of leather are you trying to soften? If it is heavy vegetable tanned leather that has gotten dry and stiff, saddle soap will do next to nothing and sometimes make it worse. I am partial to Neatsfoot oil for heavy veg-tan leather, especially anything that will see outdoor or equine use. There are other preparations and conditioners available, and everyone has their favorite, but saddle soap is not meant to soften leather, regardless of what anyone told you or what the label may say. For lighter weight leather or fine, personal leather goods, a cream type conditioner may be more appropriate than NF oil.

Very, very nice!

I get all my bells from Weaver and the cast CB and SB have holes for riveting. The SB numbered bells are made for a pin to go through the tab on the bottom. They also have NP and BP stamped steel bells with a hole for riveting. If you can't find what you need there, I'd say you will probably have a hard time finding it.

Bob is right, price is WAY high on it. Also, very limited versatility with the narrow throat. You would hate it if doing any saddle, tack, or harness work.

It was the first machine I sewed on also, and used exclusively for the first 15 years I was in business. I love those old machines! I have three of them, but none have much paint left on them. Somewhere, I'm pretty sure it was on this forum, I can remember seeing a picture of a REALLY nice original #1. Have you tried a search?

The harness appears to be made from burgundy latigo, which will likely be somewhat resistant to a good dye job. Latigo has waxes and oils added during the manufacturing process, and may have a finish coat, all of which will resist your attempts to change the color. To be sure, black dye, (and yes there is a "regular" Fiebings black dye, as well as an oil dye) will change the color, but you may not get good, complete coverage. Meaning there could be a tendency for the burgundy to show through the black, and a tendency for the black to rub off onto anything it touches for years to come. This can happen even with good quality black harness leather that has been drum dyed and finished at the tannery. In my experience, I have gotten more rub-off from the oil dyes than the regular Fiebings dyes. I know this goes against common opinion, but time and again, that's what I've seen in my shop. I usually opt NOT to spend the extra money on the oil dye if I have a choice between that and the regular dye. As a professional shop, I almost always turn away a job such as this, and advise the client that if they want to they can certainly try it on their own, but I am not optimistic as to a great outcome. I would be very displeased if I had specifically ordered a black harness and received one made from burgundy latigo, and I would strongly voice my displeasure to the company I purchased from. Best of luck to you whatever you decide to do.

I have seen attempts to sew harness on one of these machines. While they may have the capacity, the results are crude at best. I can't imagine trying to do fine work on one. Visibility is extremely limited by the large foot. I would save the $600 and put it toward a machine better suited for your needs. This is a flatbed machine. For heavy leatherwork, generally a cylinder arm is more useful.