Hilly

I got my father-in-law to make me the stitching horse from the plans in Al Stohlman's book Art of Hand Sewing. A couple of minor adjustments, and I LOVE it. Sure beats trying to hold down that little stitching pony!

It's really hard to see the detail in this belt, Cecil. From what I can see of it, it looks good. Maybe you can post some larger pics?

A quick trip to Google provided this: http://www.google.com/search?source=ig&amp...G=Google+Search

I would like to take the time to say thank you to all of you that replied. I have learned a bit, and that's what's so great about these forums, and the people that post here. I never expected all of the responses I have gotten, and that just shows what caring and thoughtful people you all are. Have a great day, Hilly Happy Valentines Day, everyone!

Thanks, Marlon. Can you give me an idea of what the different cord counts are good for? I noticed that there's 3,4,5,6 & 7 cord. Also, different twists - left and right (but we won't worry about that now). http://campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/index...e2d4987195ad393 I'm looking for the sizes to do, say, knife sheats, holsters, notebooks/photo albums, brief cases, wallets, etc. I don't want to buy a spool for $45, to find it's not the size I want. What size do you normally use, and what do you use it on the most? And where do you buy yours, and how much does it cost? Thanks, Hilly

Johanna, I stab one hole at a time, and then put in a stitch. Takes forEVER, but it's the best I can manage. I just think my hands are getting pretty bad.

Haven't been doing this all that long, but I know that if you don't want a ton of stretch in your leather, don't use bellies. Backs and (I think) butts are the toughest parts best used in belts and straps, and stuff you don't want to stretch/break.

Hi Randy. I was almost wondering if I couldn't use parrafin wax? It would serve the same purpose as beeswax, and I have boxes of the stuff in my canning supplies. Maybe the "leather color" wouldn't rub off on it as much as bees wax? Actually, I've been thinking that possibly the color change in the prewaxed thread is due to the amount of wax the manufacturer uses, and it compresses when you pull the stitches down, making it look darker? At any rate, I don't like the look of it. The only alternative I can think of is to use the brown or black prewaxed, or shelling out $$$$$$ and buying rolls of unwaxed linen, and waxing it myself. I have considered using a poly thread, and probably will on small items, however I find the look of the heavier linen thread attractive on larger projects. I do have a industrial walking foot sewing machine with leather needles for smaller projects such as checkbook covers, wallets, etc. I do love the hand stitched look on my western style holsters, and that's something you just don't get with thin poly thread.

Hi Pete. I am pushing the awl all the way to the haft, through both layers of 8-9oz. leather. I even give it about a 1/8 twist to open the hole a bit more. I don't want to twist any more for fear of making a gaping hole in the leather. I often put the tip of my harness needle into beeswax to help it slide through better. The needles are still tight going through the leather. I'm using a regular awl with a diamond tip blade. The kind intended for stabbing stitching holes. The same kind as you stated in your post. It could be that I have lost much of my pinching strenght (as in pinching a needle between thumb and fingers) in my hand due to tendon surgery, or it could be the touch of arthritis in my hands. Either way, I find it difficult to grasp and pull the harness needles through the leather without the aid of pliers. Maybe something in my technique is wrong? I plan on visiting the leather show in April, so I can talk to other's there, and possibly learn something by watching. Maybe there are different sized harness needles? Tandy offers only 2 sizes. Fat and fatter, it would seem. I've ordered some glover's needles to see if it helps any.

abn: Thanks for the suggestion. I just tried it, and it did not seem to make any/much difference. But my stitches look really neat. Johanna: I will see if I can get a hold of some glover's needles and give them a go. I hope they work easier on my hands than the harness needles! Thank you.

I'm finally catching on to hand stitching - making nice, even stitches that look good except for the thread tends to turn this dirty grey color when I snug the stitches down. My hands are clean, my work area is clean, my thread is clean, so why the ugly color? I am currently using prewaxed linen thread sold by Tandy. It can't be just the nature of the thread, as I see all kinds of stitching on these boards that look pristine white. I am considering buying a "spool" of Barbours linen in white also one in black, but it's so expensive, and the hobby budget is in trouble right now. Also, can someone recommend good overall thread sizes for hand stitching different sized projects? The thread I have seems too heavy for small items, and just right on other items. Probably would look too skimpy on larger items... I realize it's most likely a matter of preference, but you just don't want to stitch up a knife sheath with rope, or sew a harness with a silk thread. Another question for all you hand sewing people... I'm making mostly holsters at the present, and I started out trying to use regular needles, and found they just don't work for sewing leather. The eyes break out about every other stitch, and I was forever changing needles. I finally got some harness needles. They last like iron, but they are so thick, that I can't push or pull them through my awl holes w/out a needle nose pliers (plus tendonitis and arthritis in my hands bothers me). Is there another needle available which gives the best of both worlds? Smaller diameter yet very strong? One last question for now... Can someone please recommend a source for linen thread that won't break the bank? Thanks, Hilly

A friend of mine is a nurse in a local ER, and I asked him if he could get me some discarded xray films for cementing projects to. That same afternoon I get this big box with about 40 or 50 big films in it. Probably last the rest of my life! I expected them to be all black or all white, or blury, etc. What I got was clear xrays of peoples body parts! It kinda creeps me out! Cloudy lungs, dye coming from kidneys, etc. Oh, and one little knee with a fractured knee cap. Ouchy. I always wanted to glue a wallet to someone's pelvis, or a holster to someone's lungs. LOL. I never told him what I wanted the film for, and he never asked. I bet he thinks I'm wierd now!

There's also a method that I learned from a Chan Geer video for designs you intend to use over and over. It also saves time in the long run. It's called making a "tap-off". Basically you carve your design as a mirror image (do not tool it, just carve it), let it dry, and then use something like super sheen or other sealer/water proofer on both sides of the leather. When it dries it will be quite hard and water-proof. You can then just turn it carved side down onto your cased leather for the new project, and tap it all over with a flat hammer, and your design transfers over onto your cased leather. It transfers in the correct orientation, and saves you the time of tracing your pattern over and over. It transfers your design as raised lines, which you carve as if they were traced on. Pretty neat idea for those of you doing the same stuff repeatedly.

Where in Michigan City is the show? I might like to attend. And also, I heard mention of a motel taking reservations at a reduced rate? All you do is mention that you're with IFOLG to get discounted rooms?

Thanks, Kevin. Could you also show us how you do the interiors again? And what materials are you using for everything? Thanks

I used plain old veg tanned leather from Tandy. I cased using water + a drop of dish detergent, covered w/plastic and waited. I think these spots came on the leather. I don't think I'd use olive oil. It could become rancid and rot the leather IMO. Of course, I'm not sure what neatsfoot is made from.

My guess is they normally use UPS. The USPS is waaaaay less expensive to ship overseas.

I finally made a holster that I didn't want to throw in the trash right away. Although I like the natural look, I also like the look of a coat of neatsfoot. Sort of brings out the details without adding a ton of color. It's just very slightly darker than natural color. Can I just use a sealer over the oil? If so, what do you recommend? I have the super sheen, but is it compatible with the oil? Also, I noticed a bunch of tiny, light colored spots on the leather, and it seems like little waxy spots. Stain and neatsfoot scrape right off of them with a fingernail. I'm hoping that sealer will stick, and keep the color from scraping off these tiny spots. Is there something that will clean the leather before I start tooling on my next project? How do these little spots get on the leather anyway? Is there a source that I can get leather from that I don't have to worry about stuff like this?

This one.

I got a couple of Barry King tools (smooth beveler and a couple liners) and I must say that IMO, the beveler totally blows away my bevelers from Tandy. I was never really able to "walk" the beveler across my work before, but this one slides like butter on a hot skillet. It also leaves less choppy marks in the leather. For those of you just beginning in the craft (like me), it's really worth your extra $$$ to get some good tools when you can afford them. You won't believe the difference! I also ordered myself a head knife, cuz I'm hoping it will be easier for cutting heavy leather than my utility knife. Can't wait to get it and try not to cut off all my fingers!

I got an email from a girlfriend of mine, and it had some really cute and furry critters that I thought would make for neat carvings. Maybe some of you might enjoy them:

Are they that plentiful? Are they farmed like we farm venison here in the U.S.?

Super nice, Beeza, as are all of your creations! I'm curious as to where the "RMH" in your "RMH Leather" came from? I used to subscribe to a usenet group called RMH (rec.motorcycles.harley), back when I had my bike.

I always just used a big box fan (on high) in the garage window, pointing out, and a way for fresh air to enter the garage. I set up my project right near the window with the fan. Although this is not the best idea while using laquer or other types of automotive paints (toxic fumes), it's fine for spraying artist types of acrylics while wearing a simple dusk mask. There's no toxic fumes with artist colors, and any overspray was directed towards the window. I never had a problem with it. Now if I was spraying with an oil based product, or cleaning with anything but soap and water, I'd wear a respirator (the kind used in a spray booth), along with eye protection and rubber gloves (watch out rubber gloves melt in a few minutes when in contact with solvents). I wouldn't worry too much about the overspray all over the place, as long as you're careful about where you point that airbrush. Airbrushes generally do not spray HUGE quantities of paint! I'd also move my cars and motorcylcels etc. out, or cover them as a precaution. Hilly

Hi Mike. No, you don't sound dumb! Have you checked this out? http://www.howtoairbrush.com/Lindex.htm There's lots of info here, plus links to other sources for learning. Really, it's just like leatherwork - the more you practice, the better you get. I don't know of many people who can just pick up a brush and turn out a masterpiece off the line. One word of warning: It can be extremely addictive! I started out just fooling around on bike tanks, and ended up buying artist colors, and doing some portraiture. Very fun!