Mike

Cellular is weak out here but it works. I do not have the option of cellular right now so I am stuck on dialup. At least I connect 49.2k most of the time.

Ok, first off, I know the internet. I used to work for an internet company and have been communicating online for over 10 years. However, I live in a very rural area (we just got Walmart and MacDonalds this year, oh boy) and dialup is the only option unless you pay lot's of money for a tall antenna. With that said, maybe you can understand why I stay away from high bandwidth sites and such. Now I find myself in the position of trying to use Paypal and ebay. Everyone says I gotta do it. I tried paypal a few times and it seemed ok. That was prior to ebay taking them over. Someone said I needed paypal on my website and that I needed to upgrade my level. I have also had it suggested that I sell on ebay. Now I find various little items that cost me. How do you guys know how to set a price that will get you what you need and pay for the service? I just mailed someone something and only charged postage. What I got didn't quite cover postage because of fees. The amount was small enough that it didn't hurt but it did warn me that I may not know what I am doing. Is there a faq or something? Can someone give me an example of what type of Paypal account I should have. Of how I should go about one ebay? Thanks, Mike

Well, I think I'll go with a 2 oz veg tan. I'll see where it is least expensive. Right now I am out of lightweight stuff and I won't be carving much for awhile. I'll have to sell some stuff first.

It looks like Saddle Tan to me. But then I always thought saddle tan looked like orange.

Glad to have you. I have Bianchi's video set (3 videos) but I haven't gotten brave enough to try a holster and belt. Mike

You're quite welcome. Keep in mind that with something like this, the foreground is the focus. That means you can pretty much do what you want with the background. More/less clouds, different bug, trees/no trees. It's up to you. Show us what you did with it when it you're done.

I found a second python skin. 16 x215 . It is a small one like the 9500-02 that Tandy sells. It's a bit over 2 meters in length and is a complete skin. If you are curious, here is what a frog skin looks like.

Luke, I have the Art of Hand Sewing. That's how I learned. Stohlman also included hand sewing instructions in his Top 20 book on wallets. In that book, he focuses more on stitching lighter weight items. There he uses a #7 stitching wheel. I have one but it just seems too long a stitch for wallets.

I got this skin a few years ago when I was earning a decent living. Since then I've been too underfunded to afford new stuff. Now I am going through my collection trying to see what I can sell to buy supplies to work with. I've even got a shiny black frog skin. I have no idea why I have that. I keep it away from the python skin.

I'm going to find something else to practice on. This time I'll change some things. Mark, lightly scratch the line, and bevel it with a modeler or bone folder to make a narrow gouge that won't weaken the leather. Use the overstitch wheels twice around very carefully. 5 or 6 depending on how brave I am. That will give 10 or 12 spi. Smaller needles, size 5. Then we'll see what damage I do.

Ok, I know the stuff sells for 79.99/mtr at Tandy. But I ain't Tandy. I need to get some leather so I can make some checkbooks and wallets. That would be 3-4 for the backs and about 2 for interiors. Probably all of it veg-tan so I can color it however I need to. If you want python for a decent price or want to trade leather, let me know. BTW, I know this python can be used for purses, billfolds, checkbooks, belts, frames, etc... but I'm more of a carver.

I agree about putting the awl down. With my tennis elbow and pinched neck nerve I sometimes have to use pliers to pull a needle through. I always try to keep the same threads front and back. The leather is 1/8" thick and I stitched 1/16" from the edge. I did not trim after stitching. No, I did not use a stitching wheel. I used a wing divider and 'walked' it from corner to corner to mark my holes. I first etched a fine line 1/16" from the edge. Have you tried to run a size 5 stitching wheel down a lightly scratched line exactly on the line and then to go back over and hit exactly in the center of the previous marks? I would need a beer. I can guarantee that NO thread is pierced. Not one. I put a needle through about 3 inches, then the next one and check for piercing prior to pulling them tight. Besides, it's real hard to pierce 3-cord thread. Even on purpose. And a size 4 needle is small. I was going to use the size 5 but threading them is a bit tedious. I can do it but 4 was easier. Maybe next time I'll go with the smaller needles. I try to watch tension. Too much and wrinkles (puckers) form. I stop tightening just prior to this.

My tools: a stitching horse that Tandy sold in the 90's. Not a very deep throat and as you face it while sitting on it, it leans to the left. This means I pierce the leather with my right hand and angle somewhat downward to the left. My technique: I believe I follow the Stohlman method from the books. Backside (left hand) needle goes through the hole, cross the needle with the front (right hand) needle, pull a bit, then insert the front needle into the hole on the side of the hole closest to your body. I proceed from the holes furthest from me to those closest to me. The awl generally stays in my hand. There is no backstop behind the leather. Yes, it does flex. I punch one hole at a time. It is hard to see with this weight thread but switching which thread goes on which side can either give you straight or slightly zig-zagged stitches. Both look good if consistent. One other item. There is no stitching groove for these stitches. Also do to the size of the stitching, no overstitch wheel to clean them up.

I have an old 3 corner stool. The legs are connected with a y shaped piece that is threaded at each end. Acorn nuts then go at the threaded ends.

Ok, I grabbed something from my boo-boo bin and used it to practice hand stitching this afternoon. It is stitched at 10 stitches per inch with Barbours 3 cord linen thread using a #4 Osborne harness needle. (This is definitely not good for my tennis elbow!) I cannot seem to stitch uniformly even when I pay minute detail to what I am doing. I have been advised that perhaps my awl is as much at fault as I am. I try to keep the awl from penetrating an even amount each time and I watch the angle I pierce at (45 degrees). Any suggestions?

I have a python skin thats over 3 yds long. I guess that's about 3 meters in length. About 11" at the wide part. I do not have any immediate plans for it but I do need tooling leather. (veg tan 2 oz, 4 oz). Let me know if anyone needs snakeskin.

I do not think I have it yet. I did get one from WildRose.

I'll check with the PO Monday or Tuesday (I'm off on Tuesday). One to Wisconsin and one to PA. You guys email me you addresses so I can get the postage figgered. When you email me, I'll send you the details.

Thank you, that helps. :biggrin:

oooooh, that was cold. It is a nice purse. Like he said, it could be a nice Christmas gift for the wife.

Will the deer hide already be cut into lace or do you have to do that as well?

You've got a good point, Melody. Normally, I find this kind of mistake, have a mini nervous breakdown, hide it far from sight, and then go on to do it correctly. Not the best method, I know. (It also tends to waste leather) A neighbor of mine used to get my mistakes, trim around them and frame them. He did not care if they were finished. He had several in his house that he had accumulated over the years. I'll look around to see if this one is still hidden somewhere.

I went to Siegel's and looked at their stuff. The vegetable goat and mocha goat both look good. Thanks for the tip. Veg goatskin is more economical and can be oiled/dyed. When dyeing a liner like this, what do you seal it with? Oil or some finish like neat lac?

Unicorn woman is right. I belong to Lone Star and cannot attend meetings. I used to when I used to work in the area but that's been a few years ago. Dallas used to have a guild that met at the old Northwest Hwy store. That guild is gone. If their is a new guild at the new TLF store, let us know.

I'll see what I can do about sending you each a hide. They are currently rolled and should probably stay that way to prevent wrinkles. I'll see what packaging will cost. It is thin, about 1-1.5 oz I believe. (I know it is thinner than 1/32"). The color does not appear to be as dark as in the image. It's not quite as dark as a brand new pair of jeans. It would look good as box liner but it is not suede. The blue side is slick and finished with a fine grain pattern. Not pebbly like the old Moroccan grain. That would probably be good in a holster as well. I have other leathers that I do not even know what to do with. When Tandy was closing, I came across some good deals and picked up some odd stuff. Most of it is either the wrong color or too thick or something. Although the pale yellow deer skin should come in handy for something. hmmm.....