Mike

I recently bought an Amazon Kindle. These electronic book readers just beg for a cover. So I thought, hmmm, make or buy. Well, I bought. I just cannot make a case as nice as what is being manufactured. Probably manufactured in China. Sorry. But check out Amazon and Oberon.com just to get a look at the competition. Sure I know Oberon's designs are stamped. But they are sooooo nice. Just think of the work I would have to do to carve something similarly detailed and then to dye it and line it. Yes, I could get a more custom look but I'd have to sell it for over $100. And if I cannot sell any, do I really want to invest the time, money and effort for a one of a kind? Mike

'End of the Trail' is a large statue that I believe is now in the Cowboy Museum (can't remember the exact name) in OK. It has been copied in so many ways it's hard to keep track. It's image has been copied for pictures, belt buckles and so on. Even by a well known leather artist. All of it for profit. How is this ok? Just curious, pmiker

I'm not a saddlemaker but Bill Gomer of Kansas also produced a video on saddle making. Mike

The only other piece you need is a back. Snap the insert closed and then wrap a piece of leather around it from edge to edge to get your width. Measure the height and add 3/8". (My back was 7.25" by 4.75") Carve and line your back. When laid flat, the back will be a bit wider than the insert. That's what you want in order to close it. Glue the non-stitched edges of the insert to the back. (The pockets should open to the top.) Punch holes for lacing or stitching and finish it. A note on stitching/lacing. The back is wider than the insert. You will not stitch the insert at the center bottom where is splits. This is similar to some wallet kits. Leave about 3/4" of the bottom edge un-glued at the center fold. Do test fittings to make sure you know how it goes together. If you want to try one from scratch, look for Craftaid No. 4080 (Lady). It details a Jiffy purse which is about the same size. I hope this helps. The nanette is an easy kit to build. Mike

Does it look like this? And does it have a snap coin pocket in the center? I have a craftaid that shows how to make it from scratch. I also have a completed one in my lap as I type. The insert kit includes a thin strip to reinforce the top of the back. (Like some wallet kits. The interior with the outer pockets and inner coin purse is stitched or laced along the 3 unfinished sides. Your backing should extend 3/8" higher than the insert. This gives you a pocket like a wallet. The sewn edge is the insert top and is not sewn or laced. I hope this is clear. Mike

Could you post these again in a smaller format, please? Maybe 1024 x 768 or 800 x 600? It takes forever to open 2mb files on dialup. If you can't, I understand. Mike

Gomph/Hackbarth tools Gore Tools These are not as common these days.

You could use a Chaylor-Fenneli insert with a nicely carved back on thin leather. Either lace or stitch the edges. It would have the look of the Italian satin lined type with the personal touch on the back. Hidecrafter used to sell Chaylor-Fenneli and Peter Main did some articles in the LC&SJ magazine a year or so ago. You can see what they look like at Chaylor-Fenneli Mike

I am occasionally asked to make a purse. This would be one that is closed at top, has dividers inside, pockets for sundries and phone, and more. Does anyone know a resource for patterns or design ideas for these? Mike

We had a 15 minute storm a couple of hours ago. Now it's muggy and about 69 degrees F. It's bee nice the last couple of days. Clear, sunny and around 70. Today they predict storms. (rain not snow) Mike

I did some research. Same tree. Most of the folks around here consider it a nuisance tree. We also used to use the trees for fence posts and cut down. When left alone, they grew back. The trees are murder to kill. The fruit is green and warty, it is round, about the size of a softball and sappy. It also has wicked thorns. I've seen the wood from a tree I cut down. Very nice. I must say that his rub sticks look nice. Do any have grooves for edge slicking?

For those not in the know, Osage Orange is also know as bodark (various spellings) and horse apple tree. The sap is like milkweed and it makes lousy firewood. It is, however, very durable. Houses in this area used to use it for the piers. They would last about 80 years or better. Very hard wood. Very bad on chainsaws. Mike

There are some good books by Al Stohlman on making cases. You're local Tandy/TLF store should have them. They go into detail on case construction. You may also want to check out the book on hand sewing. Mike

I met with Jay Gore today. He still makes tools but apparently not in quantity. He no longer attends shows and does not have a new catalog (or any old ones). He will still make tools when asked. I just thought I'd pass the info along if anyone needed that brand of tool. Mike

Ok, I called Jay Gore today and he says that Gore Tools is still in business and yes he still makes tools. The price for bevelers is about $30. He'll make ' steep or shallow, smooth or checked. His tools are a bit longer than the Craftools. A craftool stop I have is 4.25" and the Gore stop is 4.75" The bevelers and veiners are also the same length. The checking on the shaft is rougher than a Craftool. It helps me hold it better. As I said earlier, his tools are stainless steel, no plating or color added. He invited me over today, so I'll ask if he has a current catalog. I'll also see if he will be attending any upcoming shows. Mike PS My bison skulls are now owned by Gore.

I had one. I wish I still had it. They are nice and will sew through very thick leather. They have an ingenious foot that can be shifted left or right and avoids the need for multiple feet. I believe they are about $5000 or more new with table and motor. If you are curious, I had to raise money after I was laid off to make up some house payments. Otherwise I would have kept it. If you have the cash, Campbell Bosworth is also nice. Mike

My day off is Tuesday. I'll call him and see what he's up to. He and his brother-in-law ran had the company and his brother-in-law died. I'm not sure of the company status. He is a pretty nice guy and I have had him make stuff for me in the past. I only live about 15 minutes from him. I'll let you tommorrow or Tuesday. I don't want to bug him on Sunday. Mike

Jay Lynn Gore (Gore Tools) will make one to your spec's I bet. If you tell me what you want, I'll ask him and find out a price for you. Try to specify the angle, width, face pattern and such. His tools are made of stainless steel. As an alternative, Hide Crafter had/has some. Page 47 in their catalog at the top. The PB011-014 are fairly steep fine checked beverlers. They were nicely priced for the quality. Mike

At the risk of sounding dumb. I recently came across an old Robb Barr ad for some airbrush product. In the picture he is holding the brush tip real close to the leather. I was surprised. You see, not only do I not know how to use one correctly, (I can get air and color out), I haven't seen one in use. I've never watched anyone use one so I don't have a feel for how. After seeing the ad, I'll try moving in closer. Mike

I have a couple of airbrushes that I bought years ago and never learned how to use. I'm not sure if they are set up correctly or even how to use them. When I try to use them following along with a book I have, I get fuzzy spots (the book says to practice spots). How do you guys control overspray? What advice would you give someone? So far all my work is dyed/painted with brushes. Mike PS my airbrush says it is a Paasche VL set. The compressor is a Sprayit 2.5a model. These are both probably at least 10 years old.

Good luck, I've only done one cat. It wasn't even really a cat, I guess, it was a cougar. I was lucky, Robb Barr put a pattern in his book that I could use. Furred animals are tricky. About the only area you cut with your swivel knife are the eyes, nose and ear tips. Coloring the piece like you did helps bring out some of the depth. Mike

Craftool Tech Tips by Al Stohlman will help you with each tool you use. Not only will you learn the regular way the tool is used but you will find new ways to use each tool. It also covers techniques such as backgrounding, beveling, borders and more. (oh my) It can help you add quality to each step of your tooling. For what it's worth, I recommend it. Mike

I agree with BillB. Try before you buy. Another thing to consider, get some practice with a swivel knife if you're just starting out. If you have a knife that feels good, you can always just upgrade the blade. Adjustable knives will help you fit the knife to your hand. Mike

Oh wise and omnipotent gurus of leather computers, thank you. I dropped the dub, dub, dub and it works. Haven't found the flush handle on my pc yet. Mike

I know I'm gonna get in trouble on this one. IMHO, stay away from the Tandy made Stohlman line. Robert Beard, Chuck Smith, Henley (I think), and others make fine knives. Hidecrafters have some nice less expensive ones. Whichever brand you choose, please look at what's out there before buying one. Me, I have a Craftool Pro-Line made several years ago that I like. I also have a couple of Chuck Smith knives that I use and like. I have blades by Beard and Henley and others. Mike