TZHunter

I'm wanting to make a strop to keep my round knife and other small blades really sharp. 1) What type of leather is best for this? 2) Which surface (side) of the leather comes in contact with the blades? 3) What is used to condition/prepare the leather for better "stropping"? Much Thanks, TZHunter (Doug)

I have successfully purchased from Ebay store Ah Kwok Supplies out of Hong Kong for frames like this. Amazingly their shipping is not ridiculous, and I normally get things within 7-10 days max. Most smaller frames are under $2. If you do an ebay search on "metal purse frames" and look down in the ebay stores area, you will find quite a few items being sold by Ah Kwok and then you can go to all their store items. Doug (TZHunter)

Another option which is more widely available and in smaller quantities and price is Neutral Shoe Polish.

I have found a flat bed attachment. Thanks for the other ideas also. TZHunter (Doug)

Luke, Nice setup! Is the "box" easily moved out of the way to access your bobbin. Randy C had said one of the negatives about the Tippmann flatbed attachment is that you almost have to take of the attachment to access the bobbin. Thanks for your help. Doug (TZHunter)

Anyone have a used FlatBed Attachment for the Tippmann Boss you'd like to sell? TZHunter (Doug)

Alan, Has your Boss sold? If not, are you having an 'after Christmas sale'? I'm from South TX and might be interested, but wanted to make sure you hadn't already sold it. TZHUNTER. .. Doug

Thanks to all! Where's the best place to get the Rex riveter (I need to order online). Do you need an additional attachment to do the splash and/or caps? I've seen some older used ones on ebay, but was afraid they wouldn't have all the attachments (if needed) to do the splash and caps.

In a rush recently, I used a colored shoe polish to dye/finish a phone case. .. even though I rubbed it lots after drying, thinking I could prevent it from rubbing off. . . my friend still told me that it came off some on his pants. . . so I've learned that's a no-no. . . so is the best thing to do to dye separately then apply a neutral polish over that to "seal" it? Can other substitutes be used for this final sealing (like neetsfoot oil, neat-lac, lexol, etc)? What are the pros/cons of each? I will be using alcohol based stains/dye. Thanks !

I have not used tubular rivets much, but have now learned that they are surely stronger than the quick-rivets. But I want the "splashed" side to look nicer, so I've ordered some caps also. How are these caps attached? Are they just hammered on? I currently just use a hammer/mallet and the simple Tandy tube rivet splasher to set the rivet, but wanted to know if another tool is needed to attach the cap. Thanks!

Billy, When you come to the main page of the Forum. .. the new MarketPlace section is way down at the bottom. . . so just keep scrolling down through the different sections. . . you'll get to a section called "MarketPlace" and underneath it you'll find the new sections like "Finished Leather Goods", "Items for Sale", "Services", "Wanted", "Old/Sold". .. that Johanna has worked hard to set up and Art is nice to "moderate". Thanks again to them. Doug-TZHunter

Looks like a great design. . . getting the cutting edge directly in line with the handle is perfect. Since I'm out of the US (actually in Africa), is there some place I can purchase this online with a credit card?. . . that really is my only option. I would have it is sent to my family (in TX-my permanent address) and they would help get it out here to me. I see the description sheet you posted has a phone number. . . as a last resort I could make the international call. FYI, I did "google" 'cut-quick draw gauge' and got nothing. Much Thanks, Doug

Johanna and Art and others involved, A BIG T H A N K S for all your work to getting this expanded MarketPlace working for all. Things like this take sacrificing persons behind the scenes, and I didn't want your "overtime" to go unappreciated. As you can tell quickly, the "MarketPlace" area is a popular one and will be viewed and used Lots by all. THANKS !

Timbo, I'm attaching 2 pictures. . . 1 is of how the 3 bolts look when welded together if you go that route. . . the other is of wrapping leather around the 3 legs. . . I didn't actually have a "nice" one with the leather wrap, so I just made one real quick and put 2 rivets in it so you could get the idea. . .it just needs to be a little loose around the 3 legs, then when you spread the legs, the leather wrap gets snug as they spread. . . you will want to make yours of thicker leather and to reinforce it more (even wrapping around multiple times). You can even use a shoe string to tie the legs together, we had to do it while camping when the metal bolts broke. . . but the shoe string probably won't attract too many customers, heavy leather is much nicer! Doug

I normally have just had someone make them for me by welding 3 bolts together at 120 degrees each. . . BUT if you want a more "rugged" look you can use a piece of thick veg tanned leather in a circle (like a bracelet a little larger than the 3 legs together). Place the leather loop at the fulcrum point of the 3 legs (normally middle of the leg) To keep the leather "loop" from sliding up or down when legs folded straight you can put one tack through the leather into one leg. If you want to try this, let me know and I'll post a picture. Doug

I know you were wanting to stay away from "orange". . . but being from Texas and a graduate of the University of Texas. . . .anywhere near that university, if you call anything "burnt orange" you'll will sell it. There'd be lots of folks that would PREFER that color. . . as your comments I think show. Doug

Great Idea. . . I'm no veteran at burnishing (since I've only had a burnisher a few days now !) and leatherwork (couple years on and off). . .Until I sprout a third arm and hand, your method will have to do. . . I have heard others mention burning drills up. . . I'll use your idea to control the spead without using a hand to do it. . . Since your post, I've even thought that a piece of rubber tubing or something like that may also work to hold the speed at a constant speed (other than FULL). Thanks again, you may have saved me from burning out a drill (and burning the edges of my work too!).

I tried making some Burnishers/Slickers from old wooden spools, and they turned out great, and easy to do. . . took me less than 30 minutes to do the 2 that are pictured below. Here's the step-by-step process. . . 1. Find some old wooden spools at an antique store (or from your grandmother). I found a whole bag for $1 at a garage sale. Larger ones are stronger and less likely to split. 2. Get a bolt that is as close as possible to the diameter of the hole in the spool. If necessary put a layer or two of electrical tape on the bolt to make the fit snug. . . bolt should exceed spool by 1 to 1 1/2 inches to allow for insertion into chuck of drill or drill press. 3. Put a small washer on first, then the spool, then another washer, then two nuts. . . I used a little super glue on the threads and then tightened the first nut. .. then put a little super glue before tightening the second nut. If you don't use some epoxy or glue, the nuts will loosen themselves pretty quick. 4. Now clamp your drill in a vise and put the bolt in the chuck. You'll now be using your drill kinda like a small lathe. . .with drill on auto-run. . . I first ground off the rims of the spools that keep thread from slipping off the spool. These rims get in your way when burnishing. . . I first use a fine rasp to grind down the rims, then a file to smooth the whole spool. 5. Now you are ready to cut the grooves the size of the leather edges you burnish most often.. .. with the drill running on auto. . . press a round object where you want a groove. . . I used a round rasp and a round file. . . but I also tried wrapping a piece of course sand paper around a pencil and it worked also, just slower ..keep working with the round rasp/file/pencil(with sand paper) until your groove is how you want it. .. . 6. Finish up by turning the drill on auto run. .. and use some fine sand paper and sand the whole thing lightly as it turns. THAT'S IT ! !

Thanks to you BOTH ! I'll now learn even more (and quicker) from my time on leatherworker.net

After posting this, I found a possible solution. . . tell me if there's a better one . . . Use the Search Option (blue at top of page). . .choose "More Search Options", then insert your Leatherworker.net "Name" under the "Filter by Member Name" section . . . then Search. . . any Topic that has your "name" in it shows up.

Being pretty new here, I haven't learned how to do this. I'm hoping there's a quick answer to my question. Is there a way to find all the topics/threads that you've (or I) contributed to without having to remember which categories they were in, searching for them one at a time? I know about the "View New Posts" option, but when I only have a few minutes, I'd like to quickly see if there is any responses or further comments to the Topics I've either started or contributed to. Thanks in advance!

I'm following and am ready to go on when others are ready. Sorry I wasn't reading the other conversations. I'm trying to figure out what I can use where I am. . . I'm in Eastern Africa. . . I've heard that tea and tea plants have lots of tannin from others, do you know if this is true and if I might be able to use dried tea leaves to make my tannin liquor?

I only get about 3-5 hours/week, almost always in the evenings, or on weekend. As a hobby (without time pressure of orders, etc) I enjoy thinking through and planning every detail (mentally or on paper). . . this "thinking" part of the process is relaxing and therapeutic for me in a somewhat stressful administrative job. So I enjoy the preparation for a project as well as the actually sewing or making of the project. To preserve this as a healthy hobby, I've personally decided I won't sell anything, but I do often make things for friends as gifts. . . If I'm doing this as a hobby to relieve stress as one goal, the last thing I want is a customer complaining about an insignificant detail that doesn't please him/her. I love this so much, I'm afraid if it became a "job", my appreciation for it could change.

I always appreciate those of you artistic people who can do the stamping (basket weave) and bordering well enough to make it look good. . . looks very nice, I wish my first one looked this nice. I think if you used an edger (about $10 from Tandy) around the flap you will get a more even bevel which looks and feels more professional. . .starting on my own without access to internet and forums like this. . . it took me 3 years to figure out that an edger actually existed. . . now I use it to finish all edges on my veg tanned pouches/cases, etc.

Awesome briefcases ! What is the use of the circle loop under the handle? Thanks.