rdb

They all look damn good to me. Color is good. Stitches look clean. Shapes and cants look good . I'm not sure I like the closed barrel end, unless I'm missing seeing an opening. It looks like one piece of leather folded over to make the holster, if so...kudos in making a pattern to work like that.

Boy, I understand that dilemna. I purchased the tabletop that comes with the 3000, and use it for support on most things.,At first, I didn't use it, but one project I needed it for has me leaving the top on for most things, but if I'm doing something bigger, I have resorted to just clamping a 2x4 board across the back of the table to rest things on. So far, those two things work for me. Basically the table top will provide you with all you need to clamp to, add things to, etc, if you want. If you are insistent on something else, you might purchase some unistrut at Home Depot/Lowes, and some accompanying toggle bolts/fittings. Fix the strut to the ceiling joists, either tight, or hanging down with some threaded rod. From there you could hang any kind of thing to hold whatever while you sew.

Thanx again everyone. Of course, these are about the simplest thing to make. It's a little tough figuring exactly how big to cut things. There has to be enough on the outside piece to come over the edges, and still fit the credit cards,but you'll figure it out. I prefer a mitered corner, but I haven't got the cut to be consistent yet. Skipj, those are just cemented. If I had a fine needle and thread machine running, I would sew them.

Everything looks better when there's more than 1. Brown - some UPH leather I had Black -Garment Horsehide Tan - Deerskin

I just called the Douglas'. The Mrs. answered. What a sweet lady. They're sending me a catalog. But she said they could find just about any used tool, if you know what you are looking for specifically. She also said she never heard of this Forum. So I told her about it. All you people here, and you never mentioned leatherworker.net?

Sounds like good advice. Thanx Luke. This 31 is just too fast for me right now. I'm trying to do some delicate work, and I'm not that proficient on such a fast machine. I'm palming the flywheel right now, but it's not exactly perfect. I guess I just need more practice. This thing is running perfect right now, so I know it's me...lol. The Artisan servo is good, but too pricey for such a thing. Maybe by next year they'll be selling some used servos out there on the intertubes.

ROFL...Luke! I'm thinking of getting a Makers Stamp made. It would be pretty funny to see. MAKER -Drogo Boffin of Needlehole

Thanks everyone. I have a lot of calls for a wallet line, and not the carved type or biker type. More finished business like. I still haven't worked up a pattern I like, nor do I have the machine I need yet to make the fine/close edge stitch, but I'll keep trying. I'll show as we go....

My intent on getting the 31 was to put a servo on it. The cheapest servo I've seen is a consew for $109 on Ebay. My questions to you machine pros are: Has anyone successfully put a servo on a 31? Is it worth it? Has anyone bought and used the consew servo? Is it any good? Now I'm trying to save up for a more adequate machine, but for lightweight leather, I'm thinking the 31 will do me for awhile, especially with the servo. Am I full of baloney? Any tips, suggestions, etc, will be appreciated.

I don't know if you've seen this page, but it looks like a bunch of information for your neck of the woods.. http://www.leathercomau.com/

I like it just the way it is. The only thing I could think of that might look good, i dunno, would be to invert, background the insides of the f holes. It might give the illusion of the real thing. Might be worth an experiment on some scrap.

Trying out a new pattern for wallets. Tried to keep it simple, no lining, no binding etc. From start to finish, about an hours work. This is garment weight horse hide..smooth, soft, and supple. I used my 3000 Artisan to sew...really overkill, I know, but the other new machines (old Singer, and Alder) aren't up to snuff yet. I still need a few things for them. Because the hide is so soft, it did scrunch up, and distort a bit, but mostly that was me not being careful. Once the Singer has a servo, things should be better.I'm going to change the pattern a bit on the next one, but for a first idea kind of thing, not bad, I thought,

Nice job, roadking. I love simple. Simple is beautiful.

I'ld hate to see the genealogy on that one dbusarow!!!! Some of these names are really cool. I like Nessa, Ruby. And Fosco Foxburr sounds like something out of a Dickens novel..kewl.

Just something fun, unless you are lucky enough to actually make costumes ala Hobbit for people. If you do these types of things, these would be perfect. These pages generate Hobbit names, and Elven names from your real name. http://chriswetherell.com/hobbit/ http://chriswetherell.com/elf/ My Hobbit name: Drogo Boffin of Needlehole My Elven Name: Elrohir Calafalas

Happy Solstice to one and all! After leaving Boston for the MidSouth these 11 years, the Holidays never seemed quite the same. Shopping for trees and gifts in the snow just made it seem right, somehow. But I agree with Darryl, this Forum makes anyplace we live feel like home. Me and mine wish all of you a wonderful family time, and the most happiest time of your life in the New Year.

Welcome to the Forum, Bob!. You'll find lots of companionship, tips and sharing from the Saddle Folk here, that's for sure. Your pictures just need to be made smaller, or only post one for the Topic, and add the others in comments. To make your pix smaller, you can use any of the image programs from PhotoShop to Gimp. My favorite is Irfanview. It's free, just download it. Others will throw their tips in as well, I'm sure.

When one of my machines starts acting up like that, the first thing I do is curse at it! The next thing I do is start over. I pull the thread out and rethread the machine from scratch, making sure I have all the loops and doops in the right place, checking twice. Then I go to the bobbin thread. Usually, I'll rewind a new bobbin, in case the one in question is wound too screwy, just like me. After replacing the bobbin, and putting it under the spring, I undo the main tension, and upper tension screws almost off their posts. I place some leather under the needle, and start tightening the tensions, a little at a time. That usually works for me. If it's still not quite right THEN I start readjusting bobbin tension screws, checking needle sizes etc. Good luck, but I'm sure you'll get it. Just consider it Quality time with your machine...lol

http://www.eleatherworks.com/home.php?cat=565

First off, Welcome to the Forum. You've come to the right place. Keep reading the threads, and you'll see all the things people use to make holsters. For a basic holster the list includes: egg eye harness needles and waxed thread edging tools stitch marker and awl if hand sewing good cutting knives (rotary/scissors/box knives. etc.) snaps, snap setters oil/dye/finishes molding tools...practically anything to press the leather into shape from plastic bone folders to homemade If you are going to tool/carve/stamp, there are basic kits to buy from the vendors, from Tandy to the high end toolmakers . Good luck, and I'm sure more people will jump in with advice.

I just want to thank Artisan for making this video. The manual just never did anything for me, I need to see it... I have followed the threading to a tee, and there is a big improvement in stitching, and changing tensions to match leather weight. Before it was hit or miss, now it's just a quick turn of the tension to get the knot in the middle. After I downloaded the video, I finished watching the section about the settings, and wow, that made things much easier ( especially since I was leery of actually doing anything to the machine). I've disassembled the bobbin area to clean it out, it was a snap. Thanx Dave and Artisan

Thanks for the video. It's good to see how to actually thread it correctly. I have seen several other people who use their 3000 everyday, and each one has threaded it differently than this way shown. I myself have tried several ways, and the darn thing still stitches fine...amazing equipment. I'm going to thread it up this way from now on, just so anyone who sees my machine will at least copy the prescribed way. The sound is a bit low, and closeups or unobstructed views would make it better, but for an inhouse set up the camera on a tripod, and talk, it's okay. They make sewing machines, not movies...lol If you want to download it, use Firefox, and add the 'FlashGot' extension. One click downloads of media at your fingertip. I use Irfanview, and VLC to watch. Although .flv is a good lossless compression method, I find it impossible to scroll through the movies to get to various points. Converting it to .avi, or mp3/4 might make it easier to do this.

Welcome to the board!. NC is starting to build a contingency. Chatham County here. You'll find lots of times to learn and share here. There's some pretty skilled reenactors here, you'll fit right in. Tom already said it...show the pix.

Welcome to the Forum ryano! You've definitely come to the right place. Lots to learn and share here. Sounds like you are a well rounded type, and your engineering, and mold making should be a big asset to all of us. Looking forward to pictures of your work!

There's a few threads right here that might help.. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...amp;hl=splitter http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...amp;hl=splitter