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Wayne Jueschke has a 3/4" rosette punch. Maybe one of the other tool makers do also.

Hi-lite over a resist would also be a good suggestion. I get a similar effect, and a lot more control than Antiquing. Glo-Getter also works similarly, but will darken the undyed leather more. For the reverse of this effect I can have a light background with darker high spots by doing this: Here's what I do on my belts... First I load a cloth up with the full strength darker dye. Rub off most excess on cardboard. Then a long light rub onto the surface, continuing until everything (high spots) is covered evenly. Then I mix neatsfoot oil with the dark color. You can mix it light at first, then on a sample test it. Make it darker as you prefer. I go over the whole project with the oil mix. depending on the strength of the mix, I get a light color background with just a touch of the primary color.

Thanx for that. The pictures are clearer on yours than the one I downloaded for a 31.20 (same thing). The one I downloaded has a few more pages, I think, including timing the machine etc: I'm using a new site called dropbox..supposedly you'll be able to see and download from here: http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/414800/31-20.pdf

I hope this topic gets going good. I'm looking for a new Tapper too. I've always used the rolled rawhide cheapy. They're all around the shop. I'm used to them. Sand them when they're getting a bit rough...mitre saw 'em down a scosh when they get bad. They work for me. I'm sensitive to the amount of strength I need on a bevel tap or a punch. I was a carpenter for many years, and could drive a 12p with a tap and a blow. I know where to hold a "hammah"...at the end, not up at the head. I've held and tried the Stohlman. The handle is too short for me, it just doesn't feel right. Now, everyone must have a preferred toolmaker's product, there will be a natural bias. But the WHYS you like them could help in decision making. I know my Estwings. Each one will ring a bit different when striking the nail head. There's no jarring of wrist or elbow. Other "hammahs" can tend to slide off the target, make a less than solid sound (sound is important, it reveals a lot of strengths or flaws). Can you join in with your specific observations? Are the other toolmakers products a longer handled type?

I passed on this one. The owner hadn't set it up to sew, so I couldn't test it any more than run it. Looking on Googly, I found out a bit more about it. 5500SPM, self oiling, drop feed, reverse, and a knee lift. They run anywhere from $100 just for the head, to $400 with table, on average, to $800 reconditioned from a pro. The bare needle actually went through 5/6oz like butter, but the owner wouldn't deal at all. Me, being a somewhat ornery cuss, even if he had offered $25 off, I would have taken it with me, but he just struck me wrong. That being said, I figured on installing a servo on it, and some tweaking. It would have been fine for light leathers, even though it was only a drop feed. But I got thinking 300 + 150 + some sundries, and I was almost halfway to an Artisan or some such, set up new and right for my work. Sometimes it's better to just walk away.

Those adjustment billets have a tab on the end, with a slot. Push the billet through a slot on the strap body from behind and then come back through, into the tab slot, then back into the next slot in the body...ta da. Hope I explained that right. I have no way to draw it for you right now, just Google some pictures and you'll see what I mean. This method is kind of standard. Tandy sells a strap kit that uses this method. There are many ways to add adjustment to a strap, using buckles, buttons etc. I've tried many of them, some good, some not so good. For a first strap, this would be a good learning way to do it.

Make sure there is You Tube film for us poor aliens on the other side of the country...lol

There's a pfaff 463 local to me for $300 with table, and clutch motor. It's supposed to be in tip top shape. Anyone out there have one? Anyone know about this machine?..Art?? I'm going to look at in the morning, so hopefully somebody might jump in tonight. Thanks fer lookin. Double thanks if you have any input...lol

Welcome to the Forum, CedarCreek. Nice job on that piece. You'll be an asset to us all, I'm sure, and hopefully back at Ya.

Looks like you were busy. The sparklies are cool! How did you affix the magnets, maybe show us a pic.

Gee..great idea, Randy!!

The usual IP address to put into your Browser address field is 192.168.1.1. That will bring up the Router Config window. It will ask for the password. Roo is right...admin/admin is the standard, unless you changed it.

Any of these do ya? http://www.eleatherworks.com/home.php?cat=409

If it's anything like my adler, when loading the bobbin, make sure the thread goes under the spring completely. I actually have to use a small tool to push the thread under it good. Once done, everything runs smooth. This was KEY to having my machine pick up the bobbin thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Could be fun. I'm in.

For you guys looking at "real jobs"...Take 'Em. Leather can wait. It waited 30 yrs for me to come back full time. As of the 21st, I have started my 60th year, orders picked up quick, and it looks like I'm actually going to be able to squeak by, and keep going. That's not to say, like Ian, that they wont drop off, but the old "Build it, and they will come" always applies in my book. Sooo...Take the good jobs, build up a little of the Good life, be able to buy a pair of dungarees if you need them. Play around on weekends to keep your fingers in it, and when the Corporate world reminds you that there's a better life out there, the Mistress of Leather will always welcome you back in her loving arms....sheesh what a load of crap that was...lol Happy New Year, everyone! I hope this one is the best ever.

I like the white lacing, especially the crossed x sides. Looks good, but why the swivel knife?....lol

The leather looks soft and supple, with a big flap to spread out the bacca. Looks good. He should have it for many years.

The glue will only hold for so long, I'm afraid. And could come apart tomorrow, next week, maybe a month, who knows, but it will fail. Modern manufacturers assemble belts with only glue, but they use millions of pounds of pressure to affix the two pieces, even then it doesn't last very long, nevermind forever. If you really don't want to stitch, experiment with some things like buckstitching, or rivets/rhinestones, lacing etc. Just remember if you want it too last, do the right thing and stitch it up.

Don't forget the "little" class at Zack White's on Jan 17. $25...geez...is that cheap or what. Sheridan carving on a checkbook cover, I think. This is also thanks to Hides to Art.

Came across this site with some interesting free ebooks. This one, I thought would be interesting to the natural dye folk: http://manybooks.net/titles/mairete2407624076-8.html

Pretty simple here... All my clothes are stained or oiled...sooo.... 2 flannell shirts 1 dungaree shirt 1 pair of Carhartts 1 Levis At least I can go to the store now, without looking like some grungy, just crawled out of a Tannery recycling pit kind of person..lol

I think what you are looking for, is called a Manufacturers Representative. They are companies or individuals who will represent you to various Retailers or Wholesalers. They have established connections with all these people depending on their niche in Marketing. Some even deal specifically with Leather, or Art, etc. They are easily found in phonebooks or by Google. They are not easy to get to represent you. Many want only to deal in big numbers, not small craftsman. But if you keep contacting them, eventually you will get one to Rep for you. Good Luck.

They look sharp. The paw prints are cool...so are the knives!

Nice job Spider. The nurse kitty thing is cool. Plenty of CC spots. She should be happy.