plinkercases

Srtolly, Very nice work. thanks for posting. I do this as a "jobby" - a hobby that hopefully pays for itself. So far as pricing I have let the market help me work it out and find that I aim to cover leather, hardware, consumables and then just "make a little more" to help pay down the tool up costs over the last few years. As it is not my income I don't really try to figure hours into the equation but then I also don't guarantee any delivery time! I have been told that when I started I wasn't charging enough (even by happy customers!) so now I charge a little more - I am over the "lost leader" phase of my so called business development. What I don't worry about is someone saying "well I can get one cheaper on ebay" etc.... I say then go get it friend. I have found folks who know they are getting quality hand made and truly custom work are also the ones who know it isn't cheap. I also don't worry about loosing an order over cost. I cant keep up as it is. However, I also offer to talk about "value design" to help fit a budget. I enjoy the work less when I find myself 'worrying" about the money I am making. It isn't an income contributing business so I need to keep it in perspective as my "jobby"... make good stuff, make happy customers and have fun making it all is my aim now.

Thanks Bill. I think that over time as funds allow I will be replacing my newer generation Tandy tools/stamps with either vintage ones or new from higher end tool makers. I think that it will not take too much practice and I will be passing the caliber of the tool. They are not very crisp and I found aligning them difficult at time because of irregularities on the edge of the tool (same issue on the newer Tandy letter stamps - I have a vintage letter set that lines up beautifully) . Some say to take the time to file the edges even but that is a lot of work for a less than super quality impression at the end of the day. Trouble is I tooled up with Tandy over the last 2-3 years and now regret it. Anyhow it is better than no tools!! and my lively hood does not depend on them so I will carry on. The Tandy geometric guide craft tool "stencil" is very useful but lighting is also a key as shadows can throw off the tool placement. lots to learn still so more practice needed. God Bless Murray

Thanks Ron. The pics are from my black berry so not the best. And yes I use a full length welt on all my sheaths to protect the lacing and stitching etc. God Bless Murray

This was made for a return customer for his beloved blade (second sheath for it from me!) My geometric stamping needs work for sure even using the grid guide but it isn't horrible for a first try.

I just completed this set for a friend. It was my first lacing adventure and I used the double loop. That is a full contact process and I have to do it standing just to manage the lace. Anyhow I am pleases and so was he!

Hi Monica. Nice work. here are few tips (no pun intended) I picked up or developed for my awl: - as mentioned I always shorten and round the pommels so it fits right in the cup of my hand which helps with the lien of force when piercing and also less wood to maneuver around with the needles - good directions in the Art of Hand Sewing Leather (Stohlman classic) - I make a small flat on the thickest part of the handle so that if I set it down it wont roll off the bench...which is, needless to say, a pain to retrieve and can mess up the tip. - I also orient the flat and a mark near the collar such that I can tell by feel and visual of my pointer finger how the diamond tip is oriented in my hand so I can correctly align the diamond pierce consistently along the stitch line. (see the Art book again for that) - I also always have a rounded or scribe awl on hand to open the holes to back stich without cutting the existing threads. I cant remember where I picked that up but has worked magic since I started. - I also drilled a whole in my pony and horse and pushed in a plug of bees wax into which I jab the awl each stitch or two for heavy constructions... also magic. I can post some pics when I get back to the shop if you like. Hope this helps and thanks for the post.

I recently was working on 2 projects where for various reasons I glued parts before dyeing (which is unusual on both count fro me but.. I was rushing) and of course there were few small drops of contact that of course would not take the dye... so I worked the areas with 600 grit sand paper and voila the next pass with dye It was business as usual....luckily. So there you go...even worked on an area that was basket weaved. Now I know and hope it helps others.

Looking for a manual for my newly acquired Singer 96K51. Thanks in advance for any help.

so far I hand stitch all my work except the halters where I use a Tippman Boss. I just bought a vintage Singer 96K51 industrial sewing machine from an old closed shoe repair place that I plan to use for stuff like shooting bags.... maybe other soft leather bags. I enjoy very little better than sitting and hand stitching with either my pony at my bench or on my horse watching western of course!!! or quietly. When I get int he groove so to speak there is a meditation mantra I use that also fits the rhythm of the saddle stitch... so that's what I do. Then there is the fact that a saddle stitch well done will outlast a machine lock stitch as far as I am concerned. I will check with ZenPhoto about the navigation deal.

The jockstrap border is a combination of several tools like the attached. Justly play around with pears, camouflages, veiners, etc... Thanks for the gallery suggestion... I am better with leather than web stuff and this "gallery" application is far ahead of what I had before! I think the function you are describing doesn't exist in this tool but I will keep looking. What do you use or is it embedded in you site template? jump into the veg tan world and have fun!!! Are your bags hand sewn or machine stitched?

Monica, Thank you for the compliments. As for you tastes they are not lame. A plain holster can actually be harder to pull off as the attention to on and to the lines of the main seem and throat are a real balance with the lines of the gun etc. and of course the finish is right in your face. I currently feel the more modern guns are suited to "plain" holsters and the western style and older models such as the 1911 are suited to the more ornate/carved/ boarder stamped holsters. Just my thinking now of course and can/will change I am sure. As for the guns they are airguns as I mostly build for the airgun community in Canada. Your work (I looked on your site) is stunning and has a grace my mitts could not likely achieve I don't think. A backpack is on my wish lists of projects and your bags are superb.... so I will liberate design element or 2 from you!!! If you want to see more of my work my site is; http://plinkercases.ca/ and best to just go to the "gallery" tab. Thanks again for the nod and "your no slouch yourself!"

You can also get aluminum castings of popular gun models and magazines here: duncansoudoor.com then use the "customs' tab. email glenn.duncan@duncans501.com

Here are a few recent holsters and sheaths:

Peter Phillips at Abbey England was a great help and we got to exactly what I needed and with very reasonable price event to ship then... the customer cancelled the project. But(t) now I know where to go. Thanks all.

I just received an order to replace a favorite set of stirrup leathers to go on an English Saddle. They are full grain straps not leather covered nylon webbing. I have 10-11 oxz harness leather in stock but wonder if there is a better tannage or weight if there are any English tack makers around here. I have the Stohlman saddle volumes but the western stirrup leathers are a different animal all together. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance. Murray

I though so at first but it seems more gel or grease like and "spreadable". Those are the qualities that caught my eye for ease of application. I just did a bunch of gluing with contact this weekend and it sure doesn't behave like this stuff but perhaps it is. Maybe it is rubber cement.....

I cant insert links but go to youtube and search this title " hand-made leather boots being made from scratch" the guys knife work is amazing when he trims and skives.. but more to the point what kind of glue could he possibly be using? finger applied, work almost immediately, and what about clean up? I know they are jump cut editing this but still I don't think he is getting off the floor to go wash his hands after each time he glues something.