plinkercases

Sure it sound like a funny question but really.... I had to actually re-word it a few time to pass the good taste bar but....... If you are using an older hide (some of my side are in my possession over a year before I get to the last of it) do you oil the pieces before or after you dye a project?

Thanks all. I am very pleased. And you should get out the your project and just get it completed. I am just waiting fro the main seam glue to dry on the SAA version. Much better tooling because A) it isn't late at night and B ) I am looking at the trouble spots on the first one and avoiding them! That's the good thing about having previous projects still available to look at.

Finally got the nerve to try a toe plug and can say I am please. The leather I was using was a little "wrinkly". I was pleased at the stitch spacing maintenance inside and outside radius but the double back stitch then just looks chunky... but that is where Mr. Stohlman says to do it. I left the edges just burnished as I don't feel edge paint is really period myself.. funny which projects I do and don't edge paint.... Any toe plug tip would be appreciate or general constructive comments on the holster itself. I did learn not to start tooling too late at night as there are certainly some "Persian Flaws" as a result but I think I will see them ore than anyone else. There is after all only one perfect "Maker" and it sure ain't me! This is show with a Crosman Shiloh which replicates the Remington 1861 New Army And now I am hooked an want to build more with plugs and already have another on the go for a Crosman SA6 Colt SAA clone. Anyhow have look the giggle even. Thanks.

Yes once again (about annually) I am considering selling my Tippman Boss. Very lightly used (4 halters and 3 holsters) and works great but I just don't use it. No one wants my halters and I like hand stitching holsters far better. Comes with lots of thread, needles, accessories (I jumped right in). As indicated I am in the Toronto and Bellville areas (London also a possibility for contact) Canada. It wont be free (it is almost new condition in terms of use) but it wont be current prices with the killer exchange rate either!! It is great at what it was designed for and I wish I had more need to use it but nope. So I can use the cash and bench space... and I think it is lonely... and jealous of the arbour press that gets to play more than it does. If interested email me at maker@plinkercases.ca and we can go from there. I do not mind a little drive to drop it off if you buy the tea and Tims!! OR we can arrange you picking up to avoid the cost and hassle of shipping the beast around. Plus handshakes are a great way to deal with folks.

I use a wine press screw set from Lee Valley and 3/4 wooden plates and 1 inch 40 duro rubber top and or top and bottom. takes up 12x12 on the bench and less stored if the plates are out and on their side.

Most excellent and Canadian! Happy Canada day. When and how can we order these watches or did I miss that on the start up link? I have shared this on an Every Day Carry forum and you should look into posting on them as well to generate interest and keep folks informed.

Yup got that for sure now. So...what glue do you all use and for which applications if various types?

Thank you, I thought as much for the stitching. But also wanted to use the rig this weekend and took a time saving gamble./experiment. Luckily the belt is still is salvageable shape and I can re-glue the bits that are separating and then settle in with a movie and spend some tiem on the horse stitching the edges as required. What do folk use most for large area gluing? Super 77 or similar sprays? rubber, contact, barge? I have used the spray and contact on projects with synthetic fleece and it also separate over time. Perhaps its time I try good old barge if it is that different from contact cement? What say you the experienced?

I recently lined a cartridge belt as follows: Main belt 10-11oz drum died veg, liner 4-5oz natural veg tan glued with super 77 applied to both surfaces and given goodly tack item. flesh to flesh. So as an experiment I did not stich the edges as I have seem many without (and i like the look of the clean liner) and wonder if this would stand up.... it does not. I need to go back and tack the edges down in several places after a weekend of heavy use and then I will stitch the edges BUT..... What glue do you all use and can you get a lamentation/liner to stay put at the edges without stitching and if so how? Thanks in advance.

So as I live I learn.... more accurately I should have called this my action shooting rig since it has been brought to my attention kindly that is not IPSC or IDPA compliant with the open trigger and a few belt issues.... so for all you real steel holster makers and IPSC shooters... I know now and have actually found the IPSC rules fro holsters and the next one I build will be compliant.

Some of us air gunners in Canada are getting together this weekend to have outdoor shootouts of various kinds. We plan to have a IPSC style competition so I my made this rig this week for my Blackwater II replica co2 shooter. I am just finishing a similar holster and 2 speed loader holders for a 4 inch 357..stay tuned.

I have a bunch of holsters with the same main seem line to go so I rigged up this clamp. Worked great and I have found that it can serve on most other designs however, I do need to make a version with a sharper recurve below the trigger for those chunky semi-autos. Just thought I would put it out there in case the idea helps anyone...and I am sure it isn't new in concept or execution so lets see how others clamp their holsters when gluing the main seam......

I wonder where to get those?

Similar to above but on the flat side which seems like an easier side to get a pilot punch and drill started. Thanks everyone. Now if I EVER make a mistake I will know what to try.........

That sounds like a good approach as I think it may be less heat drilling and easier to control than grinding. I may just test one on a scarp.

I love copper rivets for the very reason I am now trying to defeat. I need to remove one. luckily the late night gaff was on a work horse belt for myself and I can live with the Persian flaw but it got me thinking about the best way to remove a copper rivet. I am now adept and Dremel grinding off standard old rivets but I would assume it take much more grinding thus heat on the leather to take the peen off a properly installed copper rivet. Any suggestions from others who have never needed to remove one to correct an error? Any help (and jests) will be accepted with appreciation and a sense of humour. thanks.

Thank folks. The KaBAr is MOLLE compliant and was built and field tested and approved by an ex military friend of mine.

Just a few of the recent project I have gotten to finally. Have a look and any constructive comments are welcome of course.

Thank you Jim.

I was gifted this funny little combo tool. The owner was told it was for making belts. It has a guillotine for cutting off a straps about 1/2 wide and a punch making what seems like a 00 or 01 whole I assume in the middle of the strap. Perhaps its for hat bands? bracelets? It looks factory machined versus home made but has no markings. Anyhow I have no use for it and am looking for someone who can. it is a very solid little unit.

literature state Taiwan. I am pretty sure it is a none starter for me anyhow but thought... is this too good to be true?

Thanks for the feed back. I mostly work on holsters and sheaths and hand stitch but do have a Boss and a Singer 96K51 (which think I will someday soon put a servo motor on)... however, I just bought some needles and thread from Reliable here in Toronto and they passed on a cut sheet in this little machine so though I would ask around.

yes I wasn't clear... the test piece I saw in a video was 3 layers totaling 5/16 but the foot height can go as high as 12mm.

Has anyone ever used one of these? It has been demonstrated on up to 5/16 thick (12mm) of cowhide. Customer reviews on the site are excellent but wonder if there are any leather workers who have used it?

I haven't posted much of my work but think I will send up a selection just to get some feedback;