plinkercases

Great work and thanks fro the finishes discussions folks. Mop'n'Glo... who would have thought?

Well done and well done!

That's an heavy duty beauty for sure.

That is inspiring thanks.

Lots of tips already some repeated here but this is what I have learned: I use a 3 piece set of setter, peener and domer like these: http://www.juddtools.com/rivet-setters--domers.html punch a whole that is tight for the rivet to go through for the whole length I found compound nipper/side cutters gave me enough leverage to get through the thickest rivets, reasonably flush (I leave about a 16th top 8th) and even then I will often work my way around while cutting so I don't try to go al the way through in one go working around and/or making a second nip 90 degrees to the first leaves a cut tip that is more pyramid shaped and chisel shaped and makes peening easier Lighter taps on the peener while rotating it around at a slight angle Always work on a heavy steel plate, shoemakers metal last, or piece of heavy flat bar depending on how I can get to the rivet - and I also learned by my bench has areas that flex more so I found and use the most solid spot for this work...even steel plate will bounce on a bouncy spot. Dome the rivet head then touch up the peen lightly if it flattened a little and is visible where I would care. And practice practice practice... hope this helps.

You have learned well and fast. I look forward to seeing more of your work. And it does look like a Bianchi inspired job well executed.

Nice and I just noticed its a leftie.

Excellent thanks and I also end up with Persian flaws in almost everything! Reminds me I am not perfect.

Great thanks.

That is exactly my story. I messed with it a little in grade 7-8 the got back into it at first to make an Epipen case my kids would actually carry.. then one fro me.. then I found my old airgun and got the holster bug.... I now do it as a "Jobby" which is a hobby that sort of pays fro itself and do dream of the days when I can retire to it full time. When I get time to do it, it is relaxing and rewarding and I always learn something new (i.e. make a mistake!). This is a great forum and with some very supportive and experienced makers and I am glad I found it and glad you did too.

The styles you see when searching for images vary greatly but there are few rules from the Wild Bunch competition handbook: Holsters, Cartridge Belts • Loose ammunition (i.e., ammunition not in magazines) must be carried in a SASS main match legal manner. • Holsters and Cartridge belts must be made of traditional materials, (e.g., canvas or leather). • No metal or plastic “competition” type equipment. • Holster must cover the entire length of the slide and barrel from the muzzle TO the ejection port. (ejection port need not be covered) • Magazine pouches must be worn on the opposite side of the body from the handgun. They may hold one or two magazines. • Magazine pouches must be worn vertical and conform to the shooter’s body. (i.e., not tilt out from the shooter’s body) Looking forward to seeing what you come up with. I made this rig for messing around with my co2 1911 before I got my PB version. I intend to make a more "period' one for completion with real steel.

That is really impressive. I would love to see close ups.

Hi Matchlock, I have sent an email.

Well that's not shabby at all. a very promising start. well done.

That's a nice simple execution. I like that pattern and actually used it for my CAS holsters for my SAA's, Used it for a rig I make for the Umarex SAA BB replica lots of guys in Canada have bought.

Dwight I have lost one of my Stohlman volumes but cant actually remember which one. I will check this weekend at the farm and get back to you. If you are interested in breaking up the lot I may have need of one of them. But if you need to move them to ebay before then please do. The moment I buy one I will likely find my other copy!

Sounds like we are in the same place re this being a Jobby... hobby that pays for itself (almost). When I started a few years ago I either had or was able to make more time for it but the 1.5 years it seems family, work, church and a more recent shooting hobby take up more time than before and I have not gotten nearly as much bench time. But now I actually get paid holidays so I plan to take a day or two now and then for some leather me time. Keep up to great work and postings it is inspiring me.

Your stitching is excellent. Are you doing this as a hobby or full time? You are putting out some amazing work and if hand stitched you are putting in some amazing time. Well done.

Yes very nice. Keep them coming. Are you machine or hand stitching?

I am always fascinated by the glimpses of people benches and work shops seen in the background of their project pictures. So here is my little shop in the basement wedged between the pantry under the stairs and the furnace.... a bit like working a submarine. The main bench is actually on heavy castors so I can move it to get to the furnace. Needless to say it is cozy and almost everything in arms reach or with a step or two. Quite efficient really. So welcome to my shop and I look forward to seeing yours.

superclub vey funny and Forester very nice job. I am always challenged by the saddlers stamp but you seem to have it down. Well done.

Very nice edges and over all as well. I often trim the snap post down a little if setting on thinner straps and that helps keep then true (and don't punch an over sized hole). That and I eventually bought a press and dies and that really helps... still cut them down on thinner straps even with the press. Learned that trick from Mr. Stohlman... And that is a beautiful brace of pistols.

I agree success on both endeavours. Looks great

I started back up after monkeying around with some real bad holsters when I was a kid. I made some Epipen cases for my kid and I and then found my old airgun and was off to holster land again!! and I have a lots of prototypes lying around too.... JLS's primer sheet has a lot of key safety points in an visual excellent summary. Here are a few books which also give lots for good practical observations on what makes a good (safe and useful) holster not withstanding any fancy tooling or dying.. which comes after the holster design and construction is safe and solid. Blue Steel and Gun Leather - John Bianchi Holsters for Combat and Concealed Carry - R.K Campbell Gun Digest Book of Holsters and other Gun Leather - Roger Combs

As a genetic Scotsman I find that very funny! Thanks for the laugh.